Key to "On"

VTA1: 4.99v
VTA2: 0.10v
PIM: 0.32v

Map sensor unplugged with key to "ON"

PIM: 4.81v

 

Okay, your FRT wire is connected to the wrong place, it needs to be connected to 3F on the PFC connector side not the S4 3F.

Your TPS is also completely out of adjustment.

Your PIM readings indicate that the PFC should be OK, but you fried the map sensor.

From all your other threads about the wiring on this car I am shocked the engine is still in one piece. From the fried coils and not wiring in the circuit opening relay, to the TPS and the BAC, I am surprised the car ever ran.

 

Lol... No kidding. I really have learned A LOT through the whole journey, and luckily haven't fucked anything up too badly.

Ah, okay. Hmm... 3F on the connector side. I'll figure it out. Does it mention that on the Banzai site??

 

Yes, from our instructions:

If you are using the S4 TPS, splice the FRT wire to the 3F wire.

The wire was marked with a "3F" tag on the adapter, just like the COR, FRT, SS and KS wires.

 

Oh... I didn't see a "3F" wire. That is why I had it spliced into the 3F pin. :-/

That makes sense now.

 

I got a good deal on a 3 BAR MAP sensor. It should be here on Monday the 12th.

Only thing now... I absolutely do not have a wire marked "3F". The only wires I have KS, SS, COR, and FRT. Other than those, there isn't even another wire. Do you have a picture or description as to where this wire is or goes? (I can always add or modify.)



EDIT: I google imaged "S4 Banzai adapter", and I see pics of other adapters with a wire marked "3F"... But I cannot tell exactly which wire it is.

 

Download the FD ECU pinout, then find connector 3 wire F. If you are going to be messing with the wiring on your car you should have it anyway since this is the ECU you have in your car

 

Got it! Appreciate it.

That was a quick response... Are you awake all of the time or something?

 

I received my new 3 BAR MAP sensor today. I installed it, and also properly wired the "FRT" wire into the proper 3F pin.

The TPS readings are just fine now. The only problem I am having are the MAP sensor readings. With the key to "ON"... I am seeing + 0.49 kg/cm2 on the commander. Am I going to have to scale this MAP sensor in? If so... Doesn't that require a datalogit?

 

Sounds like you did not get a 3 bar. If it is a 2 bar, which looks just like the 3 bar, it will need to be rescaled and you do need a datalogit.

Post your VTA1, VTA2 and PIM voltages.

 

Really? Would it do this if it were a different brand 3 BAR MAP sesnsor??

I set the TPS to 1.06 Ohms earlier. With the key to "ON" the VTA1 and VTA2 voltages read 0.07v. The PIM voltage with key to "ON" is ~2.36v.

My last MAP sensor ran on "Option 4". When I switch to "Option 2" (I think it was Op2...) I get a vacuum reading of - 133 mm Hg.

 

GM 3 bar are all scaled the same.

Your TPS setting is completely wrong. Set it to 1.00v on the sensor screen with the key on.

I do not know why you had it on option 4 our base map has the 3 bar on option 2 (3rd from the top).

 

Yeah, that TPS may be messed up. I've got another.

My car was tuned by Steve Kan earlier this year. It was set on "Option 4" when I checked. If I set it to "Option 2" will it mess with my tune?

EDIT: The TPS should be set to 1.00v with engine completely warmed, though. I get the 0.07v reading with the car completely cold.

 

Got thermowax? If not then it does not matter since there is nothing holding the throttle open. The voltage at the sensor screen would be higher than 1.00v when cold with thermowax.

Can't tell you what your tuner did without seeing the map, that requires a datalogit.

 

No thermowax...

I should have purchased the datalogit a long time ago. :-/

Are those "Options" just for the MAP sensor? They don't really affect the tune..?

 

The MAP sensor selection greatly effects the tune, it is what tells the ECU how much vacuum or boost the engine is making, which then controls the amount of fuel and timing for that specific pressure. The CAS and MAP sensors are the two most critical sensors for engine operation. The "options" are to make it easier to install different MAP sensors.

 

Okay... "Normal" displays the -133 mm Hg. "Option 2" displays +0.06 kg/cm2. The other options just display too high of boost. And the car almost wants to start on "Option 4" which displays the +0.49 kg/cm2.

I think my spark plugs are fouled at the moment. :-/

 

Normal is the FD sensor
Option 1 is the Apexi sensor
Option 2 is the GM 3 bar sensor when using our supplied base map, I doubt your tuner changed that setting. Since it is the one closest to 0 psi use it. Then once you get your car started verify that it is functioning properly.

Change your spark plugs, they are certainly fouled after having the MAP sensor telling the ECU that you were always in boost.

You can try holding the gas pedal to the floor while cranking, this will cause the PFC to shut off the injectors so the plugs can dry out. This will only work if your TPS is functioning correctly, somewhere near 4.99v at WOT.

 

I changed my spark plugs and got my car started...

I set the fuel pressure to 32 PSI at idle. (It's the lowest it will go.) It's running on "Option 2" as it should be. It is idling "okay-ish"... I took it for a drive and there was a lot of hesitation. I thought maybe this had to do with the TPS, though. The VTA1 and VTA2 readings are constantly reading 0.07v... Even when trying to adjust it. When I got this car, the TPS was wired differently... I am going to have to figure out which wires go to which.

Now, the boost reading is +0.05 kg/cm2 with key to "ON", at idle, and at cruise... Wtf!?!? Why no vacuum? Why is it constantly reading +0.05 kg/cm2? What is causing this??

 

Sounds like you have problems I can't solve over the internet. Obviously your engine harness is hacked, there is no way for me to tell everything that is wired wrong.

If your VTA1 & VTA2 do not change when you step on the gas pedal then there is a TPS wiring issue or the 5v ref signal is fried in the PFC. This is quite possible since you were feeding 12v directly into this wire with your faulty BAC wiring.

If the PIM voltage and boost reading on the commander do not change when running then again, this could be effected by incorrect TPS wiring if you are shorting out the 5v ref signal that they share or the PFC is fried for the same BAC reason.

Try unplugging the TPS, then start the car and see if there is a vacuum reading on the commander.

 

Oh it was hacked alright... I just stripped back some heat shrink wrap on the TPS wiring (Wire harness side. Not TPS pigtail.)... and a few of the little copper strands in the wires were broken. Plus the connectors were loose around the wire, and must have been crimped poorly. I'm almost done rewiring these connectors properly. Also, the ******* Vref and ground wires were switched... I'm not sure that the TPS was ever wired properly in this car. Makes sense that the MAP sensor was displaying +0.05 kg/cm2.

Now, my question is... If this or even unplugging the TPS doesn't help the MAP display the proper vacuum setting, is the PFC fried or just something inside of it fried?

If the PFC were fried I'd have to send it to A'PEXi. If it is just some circuitry, I could have someone repair it around here. Right?

 

at that point you just need to verify that the map sensor plug is getting 5 volts with a multimeter, that the ground is nice and clean around 5 ohms or less and then with the key on backprobe the signal wire and see what kind of voltage measurements you are getting and compare them with the PFC reading. you can then also unplug the map sensor and ECU plug and measure the resistance of the signal wire itself and see if it is open or not.

 

I checked the V ref wire at the MAP sensor plug and also at the "2A" V ref pin at the ECU... 0v.

I'm assuming the 5v reference signal is fried in my PFC. Does have any information on the inner-workings of the Power FC?

 

No signal on the Vref could be caused by a short coming from one of the five sensors connected to this wire w/the AFM the most likely culprit. Someone last week had a similar problem and w/the AFM disconnected the 5 volt Vref signal returned. A Vref wire (Brown/White) being grounded out could also be the problem and an ohm test would verify if such was occuring. So, in recapping it could be caused by a sensor itself fed by the Vref wire or a grounded out Vref wire or the Power FC.

 

I don't even use the AFM. The V ref wire was switched with the ground wire at the TPS. I assume this fried the 5v ref circuitry in the PFC.

I have the PFC open. I used the FD pin diagram to find the V ref pin. (3I) - I traced it to all associated circuits, and see a bit of "brown" around those solder points.