3rd gen in a 2 gen, WHO'S DUNNIT?
#1
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3rd gen in a 2 gen, WHO'S DUNNIT?
I hate my car! I don't really, its just being very difficult. I need to find some one who has swapped a 3re gen motor into a 2nd gen. I would like to see how they fabricated the mounts. I was just told by several rotary companies that I can't make the kind of power that i want to. So I have to find out what it takes to fit that 3g motor in that engine bay. PLEASE HELP guys I would like this car to run some time in the next 20 years! ARG!
#2
What Subscription?
Jims5443 on www.teamfc3s.org and www.nopistons.com has done it. He does not come to this forum
#3
Senior Member
I dont know much about the swap, but heres a link to a local guy thats done it.
http://www.marx7.org/member.asp?id=gcoe
What kind of power are you looking for though? The 13bt can go pretty far...
http://www.marx7.org/member.asp?id=gcoe
What kind of power are you looking for though? The 13bt can go pretty far...
Last edited by incendui; 08-18-03 at 12:02 PM.
#6
Resident Moonwalker
The 13B-RE has bigger ports than the s4 or s5 13b, and it bolts right in. How much power are you looking to make? I've seen 450-500hp in 2gs before. Is that not enough?
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#9
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Originally posted by Josepi
Before anyone else says, the 13B-RE from the cosmo can bolt right into the same motor mounts.
Before anyone else says, the 13B-RE from the cosmo can bolt right into the same motor mounts.
They can use the same holes in the engine cradle, providing you have motor mounts from fc3s.org, k2rd.com, or you make your own.
You can use the rubber, off the original mounts.
There is some fabbing to do with the -RE though.
#10
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Well I am looking to make around 400-500 at the wheels. I have dicussed this with several successful and experienced rotary shops, and most of them say that it just not likely on a series IV motor. I was told that the dowel pins on that motor are too weak. They told me to go with a series V motor because it was much stronger. Another shop had told me that the series V would also be hard to make that much power because of how small the intake runners are. My best bet. I was told, was the 3gen motor. So I figure what the hell. I'll just break down and buy one.
P.S. I'm quite sure i know what i'm doing.
P.S. I'm quite sure i know what i'm doing.
#11
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A guy here in the Uk is having a go at putting a Fd engine in a Fc.
Have a look at this, he has only just started but gives you an idea.
http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forum...&threadid=1600
Chris
Have a look at this, he has only just started but gives you an idea.
http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forum...&threadid=1600
Chris
#13
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400 to 500HP is a pretty big range. The former is a lot easier than the latter...
I don't see how you cannot make 400 WHP with that huge turbo and a BP 13B? Time to find a tuner. You seem to have all the support mods for high boost/high HP.
Just looking at the compressor map for the T76. Its much larger than 1FastT2's T60-1, more efficient and flows a lot more. It should be quite capable of 400+HP...
I don't see how you cannot make 400 WHP with that huge turbo and a BP 13B? Time to find a tuner. You seem to have all the support mods for high boost/high HP.
Just looking at the compressor map for the T76. Its much larger than 1FastT2's T60-1, more efficient and flows a lot more. It should be quite capable of 400+HP...
Last edited by eViLRotor; 08-18-03 at 06:39 PM.
#14
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Putting a 3rd engine engine is pointless. The money it will cost to fabricate will cost the price of a 3rd gen. By the time you get a engine mangement....get the mounting, tune, and bottles of consumed beer you will be at 11 grand in no time.
400 to 500 is putting too much stress on the T2 drive train. 450 is pushing it.
second gen engines are reliable....you just have to get it tuned right.....every one wants to lean lean lean till pop. Speed cost money and if you don't invest the motor will pop.
400 to 500 is putting too much stress on the T2 drive train. 450 is pushing it.
second gen engines are reliable....you just have to get it tuned right.....every one wants to lean lean lean till pop. Speed cost money and if you don't invest the motor will pop.
#15
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ha...i have the same thing on my mine too!
I'm thinking about this swap also.... JDM S5 motor or FD motor....!?!? I'll keep an eye on this thread, to help with my decision too. (lol) Hey RevinRx7, if you need parts I got connections... peace...
#16
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Most JDM motors are usually seized up....Why? Cause they sit in some junk yard or storage unit for years...better off sticking with the 13B found in the US. If you do buy a JDM I think the fitting for the brake booster is missing and rebuilding the engine is almost mandatory.
#17
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why not go with a series 5 with S4 rotors or a 13B-RE (maybe S4 rotors in that)? most agree its too much money and not enough results to go with the -REW, especially when the -RE is so much easier and makes power. i believe its Carlos Gonzales who has ~900hp in his drag FC with an -RE and S4 rotors (modifiedmag.com).
#20
Originally posted by RevinRx7
Well I am looking to make around 400-500 at the wheels. I have dicussed this with several successful and experienced rotary shops, and most of them say that it just not likely on a series IV motor.
Well I am looking to make around 400-500 at the wheels. I have dicussed this with several successful and experienced rotary shops, and most of them say that it just not likely on a series IV motor.
I was told that the dowel pins on that motor are too weak. They told me to go with a series V motor because it was much stronger.
Another shop had told me that the series V would also be hard to make that much power because of how small the intake runners are.
My best bet. I was told, was the 3gen motor.
I look at your mod list and ask myself why arent you making 400 right now?
Last edited by dr0x; 08-18-03 at 08:10 PM.
#23
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The RE engine will bolt up to 20b motor mounts making it the eaisest and cheapest 'Twin Turbo' swap...
The REW (FD) motor is by far the hardest to swap.
The REW (FD) motor is by far the hardest to swap.