Archangels

Here is a list of the grounds i have done, am i missing any!?

- Negetive on battery to Strut Tower
- Negetive on battery to Leading Coils
- Leading Coils to Trailing Coils
- Alternator to Strut Tower
- Front Rotor Housing to Strut Tower
- Coolant Filler Neck to Strut Tower
- Re-ground ECU

I was told there's something under the UIM that i should ground, i think it's the EFI Harness but someone had told me i already grounded that when i grounded the rotor housing, i was going to ground the rear rotor housing to the firewall and the front rotor housing to the rear one for good measure....

what are your thoughts and imput?...

thanx!...

NZConvertible

You've added two extra battery-to-chassis paths, but have you checked the stock one to make sure it's clean of dirt and corrosion and securely bolted on?

All you've done is linked two points of the chassis. What is that supposed to achieve?

You've added three extra engine-to-chassis paths, but again, have you checked if the stock one is clean and secure?

The bulk of the EFI system is grounded via a bolt on top of the rear rotor housing. Once again, it must be clean and secure. If that connection isn't right, adding extra wires won't do anything. How would it?

Most of those extra wires are a complete waste of time. They weren't needed when the car was new so why would they be needed now? The negative cable from the battery is bolted to both the chassis (side of the strut tower) and the engine (starter motor mount). It's sized to take the 100+ amps of a cranking starter motor so it's more than capable of handling the car's running loads. You just have to make sure the connections are clean and secure (see the common theme?). Adding one extra engine-to-chassis wire and one extra battery-to-chassis wire might be of some minor benefit, but any more than that is pointless overkill.

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

Do I win?

NZConvertible

Hell yeah!

Archangels

well i kinda decided if i cant find whats wrong with it, i'll start to try and do everything....

i dont know what it is, but i cannot see ANY grounds on my firewall, at all, my car's JDM but that shouldnt matter in the least, i spent 20mins looking for stock grounds and i cant find anything, i HAVE to be missing something....

the reason i bolted my coils together is just to make sure they have a good connection in the sence that the leading has been moved and needs to be grounded to ensure that it works properly, the strap may have done nothing but i did it as a "just incase" thing....

i'm trying my best to fix this car, is there any other grounds that i have missed!?

FelixIsGod29X

iTrader: (50)

clean the connections to your fuel injectors, you never know cuz thats what the problem was with my dads.

Nosferatu

If I gather correctly,you are also running a HKS FCON,correct? You may want to disconnect it and just run the stock ecu for a test run.That eliminates all the extra wiring and the piggyback if all the grounds are sound.

Archangels

the thing is, it ran perfectly fine without the FCON or GCC installed before, it's when i got the injectors installed that it started shitting out....

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

One known ground wire to add is for S4's. It was Service bulletin or something.
Adding a groud to the strut from the boost sensor to help remove the hesitation.

edmcguirk

From memory, the ground on top of the engine is not used as an engine ground, it is listed in the manual as something like emissions ground.

That would most lokely be used as the ground reference for all the engine sensors. For example the oxygen sensor only generates one volt max so an error of half a volt from a dirty ground can mean a lot.

That would include all the engine sensors that run off the 5 volt reference. Adding a ground to the boost sensor would help ground that whole sensor group.

Last time I looked, I think the test connector on the passenger side is also that same ground loop.

ed

edmcguirk

Might be worth while to clean the connector on the resister pack too.

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

I had lots of hesitation. First, it was the grounds. I cut and put all new connectors on my ground wires. The extra grounds where not needed. Fixed the cruising hesitation. But still had some at boost. So then, I changed my injector connectors. Put some Bosch ones in. BAM, no more. I still have slight hesitation when the secondary injectors kick in, but I feel a Aftermarket ECU will help me with that. I do not feel the hesitation while jumping on it.

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

On my s4 t2, the ground under the UIM is for the Injectors, and not sure what else. But I know for a fact, it is the Injetor ground because I spliced the wires all the way back.

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

I did not read this. Try putting new injector clips on. At the least, as Karack recomended to me, check that the pins are pushed all the way in.

AlexG13B

iTrader: (7)

i thought ground the pressure sensor was only needed on 86' models?

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

i THINK thats correct

Archangels

The Wankler, could you give me more information about the grounds you made under the UIM?, thats the last ground i need to do, and the more information i get the better....

thanx!...

Archangels

ATTN: ALL

My car's fixed, i fixed it myself....

i added a ground from the rear rotor housing to the bell housing, then the bell housing to the firewall, then from the coolant filler neck to the strut tower, capped a few vac. lines, took the car out, ran it on "low" boost and it ran perfect, pulled over, ran it on "high" boost and it ran nearly perfect ( dont wana jynx it ), i still have the ticking noise in higher gears when i'm at WOT, but thats about it....

Archangels

are there any other grounds i should do for "just because" sake?...

NZConvertible

There is one small factory ground wire on the firewall, but I didn't actually mention it before so I dunno why you were looking there. Like I said, the negative cable from the battery is bolted to both the side of the strut tower and the starter motor mount. Those are the points where the engine and chassis connect to each other and the battery.

A better solution would be to unbolt the coils and sand away the paint from the body where they bolt to it. Also sand clean the mounting points on the coils themselves.

THE STOCK ONES!

As I said above, the EFI system is grounded to the engine block. The block is then connected directly to the battery.

You're correct that most of the sensors are grounded to that point, but the O2 sensor is not one of them. Its ground path is through the exhaust, which is bolted to the engine, which is connected to the battery.

The injectors are not directly grounded anywhere. They're wired back to the ECU, which switches them to that main EFI ground point.

AlexG13B

iTrader: (7)

I still have which I belive is 2ndary injectors hesitations. I tried cleaning the ground on strut tower, I changed the ground from the rear rotor housing to bell housing (I had a bad contact on top of the bracket so I decided to move it to the bell housing cuz I was easier). Then I put a ground wire from there to strut tower, and yet I'm still getting hesations and pretty bad at times. I also cleaned up the contact on the firewall, but where it is located on the block I think.
Would a tps cause this also?

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

Check you injector plugs.

AlexG13B

iTrader: (7)

Check then for wat? I also noticed sometimes on my A/F it'll go really lean or 02 flucates (closed loop)

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

Check to make sure the pins in the clip are properly seated. If one lookslike it could be a mm off, that could be your problem. I mean, just replace them. It is not that hard, and that cured my problem.

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

maybe ill invest in some since they infact are pretty old..couldnt hurt i guess..arent they pretty cheap at a local shop?
AKA NAPA or autizone? desno plugs correct?
preventive maintenance