ok 89 vert...new motor maybe 20-30 miles on it. she idles GREAT nice and smooth up untill 70ish... if your EAZY on the gas... if you stomp on it if farts and shoots flames and pitchs a REAL bitch. i though ok 2ndarys arent working... swaped them with good working 1's... no change. i have swaped a LOT of stuff. with known good parts. i have swaped , fuel pump, 4 sets of 2nd... injectors, mass air, map, ecu, i checked the wires(harness) to make sure i was getting power to the injectors... checked fine. the car has the check engine light on but it has allways been on... and it has a good omp... we ajusted the timeing... no change... im at a total loss on this. next up im gonna check the fuel psi. any ideas? oh and the motor is a polished 6 port with no sleves in the 5-6 ports.
thanks
David

 

if the engine light is on. then check it for codes....

http://www.1300cc.com/howto/how2/codes.html

 

When you say new motor, you mean new as in brand new, rebuilt, etc?? 20-30 miles? Or 20-30 *thousand* miles? Because if its new or rebuilt and only has 20-30 miles on it, you aren't supposed to exceed 4000 RPM until you've put AT LEAST 1000 miles on it. It has low low low compression until the seals wear in nicely, and the engine gets settled with its new gaskets. You can really f*** it up if you don't break it in right.

Now, if its already been broken in nicely and properly, and you mean 20-30 miles PAST break-in, that's a different story. But if you haven't broken the motor in right, you're doing what is generally considered a Very Bad Thing by demanding that of it right now.

Also, have you checked the compression on it?

I'm no expert but these things are what I've heard and read lying around from other people with similar situations.

 

its a rebuilt motor... i did it... and yes i know about breaking it in but this isnt a prolonged high rpm this is just reving it... and yes its 20-30 miles not 20k. and yes i have a mazda compression tester its bouncing great #'s. the motor isnt the prob. its a f.i. or ecu prob. not a motor prob.

 

okay cool... just checking.

 

Stock injectors? Right.
Put a wire tap on one of the secondary injector wires at the ECU. Put a meter on it. Go for a drive. The meter should show battery voltage up until approx 3500, and if you have a load on the engine, the voltage should drop down to approx 5-8 volts. So what happened?

Trail plugs are in the right place of course and the injector plugs are in the right place. Of course they are.

The boost/pressure sensor has N350 written on it, of course.

And if you look at the secondary injectors voltage, you see no voltage drop if you easy on the gas up to 70-80 mph. Right?

And you checked the codes and the code was insignificant. Of course.

Did you check the boost/pressure sensor at idle and with the vac hose off. And did it correspond to the figures in the fsm?

 

ok update... did the codes... 4 codes i can only get 3 from the print out... 12,26,27,37
12 tps
26 no listing
27 omp
37 omp
so i guess ill swap in a diffrent omp then check the codes again