I heard that the 2nd generation block is only good to like 400 or so horse power then they blocks brake or crack, like the back plate. I also heard that the 13b rew blocks are invincible, can someone fill me in if i am wrong

 

The 13b rew is not invincible. All rotaries are just as fragile as the other. It can handle more horsepower yes, but it's just as prone to breaking as the 13b if it's not cared for in the proper way.

 

the 13 rew I think has more and stronger dowel pins. aswell as more metal around where the pins go through the housings so they are a bit stronger and won't crack as easily. I'd say the FC ones are good for 400-450 RWHP

 

Someones been playing too much Gran Turismo. Ive seen a few TIIs with over 600hp, same with FDs, but its easier to get more power out of the 13B-REW.

 

thanks for the input, im gonna buy a tII in the next month or so and i was wanting to know if the 13b rew swap was a good idea for making about 400 or so reliable horsepower

 

Ya a TII should be fine for you, I hope to see you around KC sometime.

 

13B REW swap is not easily doable anyway.

The mounts are all different, and thats just the very beginning, with all the crazy engine management, vac lines and general complexity of the 13B-REW. Of course, youre looking at replacing most of that to get 400+ HP anyway, but unless youre planning to do the whole lot in one fell swoop, 13B-REW into an FC isn't a good way to go.

If you want a 13B-REW start with an FD. The FD is a generally better package than the FC, all round.

However, a properly rebuilt, dowel-pinned, ported 13B-T equipped with 3mm apex seals, and proper care and attention lavished on it is as good a motor as any.

It is true that the 13B REW is nominally stronger, but once you are at the level of investment required to extract over 400RWHP out of the motor, the minor changes in the 13B REW aren't going to worry you much.

i.e. at the mechanical stress and boost levels required for 400+ RWHP, anything that goes horribly wrong and breaks a 13B-T will break a 13B-REW as well.

 

i believe that there have been done conversions and you can get a 3 rotor put into an fc for about as much as a 13b-rew somting to consider. (if you search there are a few threads with information readily available.)

 

You are correct, except that REW's run the same amount of dowel pins.

 

was soulassasin running a 13bt? i think he was?? if so wasnt he making something like 530-620hp?

 

You can get a REW to bolt into a FC in just a few hours.

You need a S5 clutch and flywheel
T2 tranny
FC Oil Pan
FC motor mounts and a piece of plate steel
a drill and tap

take off the FD oil pan, bolt on the FC oil pan, mark the holes for the passenger side motor mount in the center plate. drill the holes and tap for the FC motor mount bolts. 1 done. bolt on driver side motor mount. drill out 10mm hole that is approx. 8" above the mount on the center plate for a stud from a FC driver side motor mount. Put in stud. weld plate steel to the driver side motor mount and drill hole for new stud location. 2 done.

Now your FD motor bolts into your FC.

 

are you sure about that initial? iv heard that you have to have custom made motor mounts and endless stuff like that?

 

im sure cuz i did it in my fc a year and a half ago.

 

how long did the process take? final cost?

 

well when i did it i did the following

s6 motor street port intake/exhaust
custom intake manifold with additional peripheral ports
pp'd housings
extra dowel pins
os giken twin disc clutch/flywheel
crispeed top feed rails with 72/160lb
aeromotive -10 external fuel setup
haltech e6k
greddy elbow
24x12x3 ic
3.5 exhaust
ss manifold
hks 60mm wg
t76 turbo

so just the motor install wouldnt be too back, just get a custom midpipe made to match the fd dp and the fc catback. run the REW ECU and harness. Do the non-seq. mod and a make-shift IC setup. and have yourself a good time.

 

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