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2100lbs gxl?

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Old 10-01-04, 01:36 AM
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2100lbs gxl?

I want to try and get about 2100-2200 pounds. Car is a 90 gxl that will have a turbo rear end including tranny. (I will also go turbo but i wont worry about that yet) Car is going to be street driven. Here is what i am already removing

stock interior door panels
all audio including wirers, speakers, antenna
rear wiper, motor, fluid
headlight fluid n motor
all interoir black tar stuff
all interior sound deadening mats
power steering
ac
cruise control, and stock alarm
front carpet under seats
jack, spare
aluminum hood
no rear seats


if anyone can estimate how much weight there is here or knows how much certain things way let me know
Old 10-01-04, 01:37 AM
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Eat Rice Don't Drive it.

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Not possible with what you said.
Old 10-01-04, 01:38 AM
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so what else do i need?
Old 10-01-04, 01:39 AM
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Some faith in God and him granting you a miracle.
Old 10-01-04, 01:40 AM
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...94% correct.

 
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I had an 87 base model down to 2200lbs. 2190, actually. Now, first thing you got to do, is get a sawz-all...because you got a LOT of cutting to do.
Old 10-01-04, 01:40 AM
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ok thanks
Old 10-01-04, 01:41 AM
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makenzie-what did you cut? have pics or anything?
Old 10-01-04, 01:44 AM
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If god wanted your car to be 2100lbs, he would have miracled its *** that light
Old 10-01-04, 01:51 AM
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...94% correct.

 
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All glass was lexan. That was the biggest single thing, other than every interior panel, carpet, and seats. Without any glass, and no need to open the hatch, you can pull all the latching mechanisms from the hatch, window regulators, interior latches, etc. Also, with no side windows, heating and AC is kinna pointless, so rip the heater core, evaporator, AC pump, fan, firing, logicon, condensor, plumbing, relays, and fuses out...yes, fuses have weight. With no AC/heat, you really don't need the vents or grills or ducts behind the dash and you really don't need that much of a dash...but it looks good, so pullit, strip it's guts, return the empty shell of vinyl. But it doesn't wiegh much...so all those braces and **** that hold up that heavy dash and all...meh, cut'em out. Since you've already got the swzall out, cut the rear speaker towers off...you don't need em. Also, that big flap spot over the gas tank? Guess what....it's not doing anything. While we're cutting useless pieces of metal out, you really don't need all that **** that the windo regulators bolted to...

get the idea?
Old 10-01-04, 01:56 AM
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ya i gotcha....forgot to mention my rear window is going to be lexan....and i am working on a lighter dash
Old 10-01-04, 02:13 AM
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all the stuff you listed will drop you to about 2600, if that.

if extream lightweight is your goal, why on earth are you putting in a tii trany and diff? together they probobly weigh 50lbs more than the n/a units. if you go with the tii motor, thats another 50lbs or so.

no audio and no door panels on a street car is lame. the 20 lbs it will save you is not worth the inconvenince and people snikering about your car being ghetto.

the least you could get a reasonably streetable fc down to is about 2400lbs (88integrals), and thats a s4 n/a. youre already a few 100lb behind the cirve with an s5 gxl, turbo bits wont help any either.
Old 10-01-04, 03:19 AM
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Why would you do any of this on a street driven car? Just sell it and buy a TII, or put a V8 in your car..
Old 10-01-04, 11:50 AM
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good luck. Tube chassis, titanium skin..you may be able to get there.
Old 10-01-04, 12:08 PM
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you could always wave a wand and hope you end up with a RX7 thats all c arbon fiber

if i could aford it i would redo my int with carbon fiber but dam 100 bucks for a 8X8 sheet dam
Old 10-01-04, 12:42 PM
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makenzie know what he's talking about.

i'm assuming this car will be taken to the track...

yeah, i would completely gut the door, leaving nothing but the outer shell and structural braces. you can also take out the handles and associated mechanisms and latches. after that you can (spot?) weld the doors on...

also don't just get rid of some carpet and insulation, get rid of ALL of it. there should not be anything in the interior left except the drivers seat (that's right NO passenger seat), dash, steering wheel, pedals, and hand brake.

another thing to do is get all light weight components. get super light rims (vert rims will work good actually) and tires. get a lightened flywheel (like an aluminum one from RB), and go with a full straight exhaust (cats weigh a lot).

the glass is definetly a heavy component. the sides just replace with netting...the front lexan...the rear may be a little hard to get the right shape with lexan, but is one of the heaviest body parts on the car...if you are serious about this i would just replace it with an aluminum sheet and weld it to the car...

there are a bunch of other things you can do, but i think all this stuff, including what was already mentioned, pretty much covers it and should be able to get you down to at least 2300 lbs...
Old 10-01-04, 12:44 PM
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i got mine down to 2400 with a lot of stuff gone or relpaced with CF (still have door panels and carpet), if you want to get rid of more get rid of all the glass, run a small fuel cell and start taking off every part that does'nt need to be there
Old 10-01-04, 01:13 PM
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why rice it when you can

 
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does any body know a place where i can get at least a 4 point roll bar
90 gxl
Old 10-01-04, 01:46 PM
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Did anybody bother to think about how badly you're throwing off the balance of the car??

It sounds like you guys are pulling almost all the weight off the rear... you realize if this is going to be a track car you're probably sacraficing time now instead of gaining?

And you guys with Lexan windows, I envy you a lot to have that much money! I hear you have to replace it annually due to pitting... true? Must cost a fortune.

--Gary
Old 10-01-04, 01:48 PM
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how much faster do you think the car will run stock if i drop 500lbs? The car is going to be tracked not used for drag but its the easiest way for me to compare power.
Old 10-01-04, 01:50 PM
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it is a lot of weight in the back however the battery will be relocated, the fron bumper i removed and replaced with a fiberglass one, cone filter replaced that stupid stock heavy intake, power steering and ac came out along with some miclenous brackets.
Old 10-01-04, 02:01 PM
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Acrylic windows will make your car HELLLLLLLLLA LIGHTER its what the drifters use.

Here is the link for HPI Super Acrylic Windows.
Its $1,100 for the rear and driver and passager windows.
Not to bad if your trying to shave a lot of weight off your car.
http://www.lsauto.com/hpiacrylic.asp


I like my interior and my mucis. I dont know how you can drive without music when your alone. YOu much be easly entertained... well yah hope this helps.

Last edited by k1n0y; 10-01-04 at 02:06 PM.
Old 10-01-04, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by krazykoncepts
how much faster do you think the car will run stock if i drop 500lbs? The car is going to be tracked not used for drag but its the easiest way for me to compare power.
500lbs can drop a quarter mile about .5 secs. Its all about the driver tho in quartermile or in any driving. but yes ABOUT .5 secs.
Old 10-01-04, 02:24 PM
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Wow! Some people are very ambitious but seem to lack a bit of "know" Don't be offended here... I don't claim to know it all but being around/in the racing arena I do see what it takes. 2000-2100lb FC is an all purpose race, tube framed, Old School IMSA car. Btw, I don't know of any "race car" that has driver or passenger side window at all
So you still want a 2000-2100lb FC? Ok, get rid of your doors, front and rear bumper, cut the supports away, hood and get rid of your fenders please Forget an TII related piece!
Again, don't be offended but realize that gutting your interior and all else stated just won't cut it. Good luck with your project!
Old 10-01-04, 03:42 PM
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First off it was 2100 to 2200 not 2000 to 2100. I know it's a small difference. But my main goal was only to try and figure out the weight and what i need to remove in the fc. I am very familar with tubeframe cars (not tube frame fc's though) And i was obviously mistaken but i thought they only weighed little 2500 or so stock, and it now appears its over 2700
Old 10-01-04, 03:43 PM
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I really doubt you'll be able to do it krazykoncepts. In case you're wondering all the tar in the hatch weighs 5lbs. http://www.geocities.com/jeffguilfoil/hatchtar.html Big waste of time.

I've removed the rear wiper stuff, hatch tar, change the rims (~36lbs), lighter tires (?lbs), single exhaust, front speakers, rear amps, aftermarket stereo (say 1/2 weight), all AC stuff, never had PS, cone filter, cold start, cruise, never had ABS, stock aluminum hood. TII engines are 45lbs more than a S4 n/a. I'm positive that I've listed no more than a couple hundred pounds there. IMO the interior doesn't weigh nearly as much as people say. You could get maybe 30lbs from that. 30 lbs from the spare and 5-10 lbs by removing the sunroof motor. Let's be nice and say you could cut 100lbs beyond what I have without cutting metal or using lexan.

As for the balance of the car, lets say you get it down to 2500lbs with 1300lbs front, 1200lbs rear. That's still 52/48. That's also why they invented springs with more than one rate, different heights and coilovers.


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