20W50 oil VS Winter
11-01-05, 09:36 PM
#1
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20W50 oil VS Winter
was currious, i started my car the other day, it had been sitting for a few dayz without being started, it was mabe +5 degree's celcius outside and when i started it, it sounded like it was knocking for a few secs then stopped....
how bad is it to be starting a car in the winter with 20W50 oil in it?...
it will be parked in a week and i was wondering this, i would want to start it once or twice in the winter and it will be kolder, should i turn the heater ( portable ) on in the garage the day-of and let the whole garage warm up some?... or should i pull the EGI fuse and crank it a few times before i put it back and start it?...
anyways, all help is appreciated, i'd be lost without you guys.... thanx....
how bad is it to be starting a car in the winter with 20W50 oil in it?...
it will be parked in a week and i was wondering this, i would want to start it once or twice in the winter and it will be kolder, should i turn the heater ( portable ) on in the garage the day-of and let the whole garage warm up some?... or should i pull the EGI fuse and crank it a few times before i put it back and start it?...
anyways, all help is appreciated, i'd be lost without you guys.... thanx....
11-01-05, 09:51 PM
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Are you gonna be storing this car? It kinda sounds like you will be storing it and then going to start it a few times during the winter. DON'T. It is the worst thing you can do. Gimme a second to find a thread that discusses this.
You want a full tank of gas to prevent condensation. You should also add some fuel stabilizer stuff to it, though for a few months it's probably not a big issue.
You do NOT want to run the engine for 15 minutes every few weeks. That doesn't get it hot enough to boil any water out of the oil, and all it does is promote condensation and acid and other bad things.
Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
Put the recommended amount of fuel stabilizer in the tank.
Go for adrive to get the car good and hot, then change the oil.
While the engine is cooling, give the car a good wash and wax job. Vacuum the interior, and place moth ***** at all 4 corners to keep mice away. If you have leather, apply protectant.
Pump up the tires to 50 LBs (keeps them from flat spotting).
Back to the engine. Change coolant. Get some fogging oil and liberally spray into the leading spark plug holes. Rotate the engine by hand and repeat 2 more times. Put the plugs back in.
Disconnect the battery and take it into the house.
Plug the intake with a cloth (keeps rodents out). Store the car in a ventilated, protected area. Crack the windows slightly, and put a heavy blanket over the entire car to protect it.
Go for adrive to get the car good and hot, then change the oil.
While the engine is cooling, give the car a good wash and wax job. Vacuum the interior, and place moth ***** at all 4 corners to keep mice away. If you have leather, apply protectant.
Pump up the tires to 50 LBs (keeps them from flat spotting).
Back to the engine. Change coolant. Get some fogging oil and liberally spray into the leading spark plug holes. Rotate the engine by hand and repeat 2 more times. Put the plugs back in.
Disconnect the battery and take it into the house.
Plug the intake with a cloth (keeps rodents out). Store the car in a ventilated, protected area. Crack the windows slightly, and put a heavy blanket over the entire car to protect it.
You do NOT want to run the engine for 15 minutes every few weeks. That doesn't get it hot enough to boil any water out of the oil, and all it does is promote condensation and acid and other bad things.
Last edited by Mason Rx7; 11-01-05 at 09:59 PM.
11-01-05, 10:18 PM
#3
Is there a good reason you can't put 10W-30 in it for the winter?
If you'll be driving it, you want the lighter oil - 20W-50 is disturbingly close to a solid at sub-zero temperatures. If you're going to be storing it, follow the above advice.
-=Russ=-
If you'll be driving it, you want the lighter oil - 20W-50 is disturbingly close to a solid at sub-zero temperatures. If you're going to be storing it, follow the above advice.
-=Russ=-
11-01-05, 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Mason Rx7
10w30 is not only good for winter but it is recomended for use in the winter by MAZDA.
11-02-05, 12:02 AM
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i will not be driving it in the winter, it will be sitting for 4months, approx. that anyways....
it had 20W50 in it right now, and i dont see a point in changing the oil if the cars just going to be sitting....
so leave it till spring comes and +10degree weather comes?...
it had 20W50 in it right now, and i dont see a point in changing the oil if the cars just going to be sitting....
so leave it till spring comes and +10degree weather comes?...
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11-02-05, 12:08 AM
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Change the oil. You are suppsed to change the oil every 3 months or 3,000 miles whichever comes first. I say change the oil to 10w30 and then change it again when you bring the car outta storage.
Fresh oil I'm positive will make a world of difference rather than nasty oil sitting in the car for four months.
Fresh oil I'm positive will make a world of difference rather than nasty oil sitting in the car for four months.
11-02-05, 12:09 AM
#9
Originally Posted by Archangels
it had 20W50 in it right now, and i dont see a point in changing the oil if the cars just going to be sitting....
You want to change the oil before you store the car. Get it good and hot (some high RPM work on the highway is my preferred method), and let it drain for 10-15 minutes to get as much out as you can.
Oil that has been in an engine for a while has all sorts of interesting stuff in it. Water & acid from combustion byproducts are among the more damaging things. You don't want your engine to be sitting for 4 months with that stuff in it. It's not as bad during normal use, because the engine gets hot enough to boil the water out, and there's always oil circulation, but for storage you REALLY want clean, uncontaminated oil.
-=Russ=-
11-02-05, 12:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Syonyk
I seriously hope by "changing", you mean changing viscosities, and not changing the oil...
You want to change the oil before you store the car. Get it good and hot (some high RPM work on the highway is my preferred method), and let it drain for 10-15 minutes to get as much out as you can.
Oil that has been in an engine for a while has all sorts of interesting stuff in it. Water & acid from combustion byproducts are among the more damaging things. You don't want your engine to be sitting for 4 months with that stuff in it. It's not as bad during normal use, because the engine gets hot enough to boil the water out, and there's always oil circulation, but for storage you REALLY want clean, uncontaminated oil.
-=Russ=-
You want to change the oil before you store the car. Get it good and hot (some high RPM work on the highway is my preferred method), and let it drain for 10-15 minutes to get as much out as you can.
Oil that has been in an engine for a while has all sorts of interesting stuff in it. Water & acid from combustion byproducts are among the more damaging things. You don't want your engine to be sitting for 4 months with that stuff in it. It's not as bad during normal use, because the engine gets hot enough to boil the water out, and there's always oil circulation, but for storage you REALLY want clean, uncontaminated oil.
-=Russ=-
11-02-05, 12:33 AM
#12
That won't get anything extra out unless you do a full fill, run, flush. The oil fill tube comes out more or less on top of the oil drain plug, so you'll just be dumping oil in, and it'll drain out.
If you really want to make sure the oil is clean, change it, fill it, have fun on the highway to warm it up and run it through the system, then change it again. I wouldn't personally go that far, but it's an option.
-=Russ=-
If you really want to make sure the oil is clean, change it, fill it, have fun on the highway to warm it up and run it through the system, then change it again. I wouldn't personally go that far, but it's an option.
-=Russ=-
11-02-05, 12:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Syonyk
That won't get anything extra out unless you do a full fill, run, flush. The oil fill tube comes out more or less on top of the oil drain plug, so you'll just be dumping oil in, and it'll drain out.
If you really want to make sure the oil is clean, change it, fill it, have fun on the highway to warm it up and run it through the system, then change it again. I wouldn't personally go that far, but it's an option.
-=Russ=-
If you really want to make sure the oil is clean, change it, fill it, have fun on the highway to warm it up and run it through the system, then change it again. I wouldn't personally go that far, but it's an option.
-=Russ=-
11-02-05, 06:21 AM
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Buy the cheap stuff and then just plan on changing it when you bring the car back out in the spring.... Remember... oil has to pass all kinds of regulations...so...shitty oil...MIGHT not be any different that your prefered oil... oh boy...that comment is going to get me shot!
11-02-05, 07:49 AM
#16
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what is the point in crappy cheapo oil unless you don't care about the car???
I mean how much does and oil change with a decent brand name oil cost???$15- $20
Less than a tank of gas.
Pretty cheap insurance just to change the oil with the right grade for the temp and of decent quaility...
And how much money would you be saving using brand X oil from your local supermarket??? $5??? ( that would be if it was a dollar a quart cheaper)....
I mean how much does and oil change with a decent brand name oil cost???$15- $20
Less than a tank of gas.
Pretty cheap insurance just to change the oil with the right grade for the temp and of decent quaility...
And how much money would you be saving using brand X oil from your local supermarket??? $5??? ( that would be if it was a dollar a quart cheaper)....
11-02-05, 01:58 PM
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LOL!, i never buy cheap oil so you dont have to worry about that, even if it was a $20 difference between the 2 i'd rather have a good mind-set and have, as you said, that little big of insurance....
11-02-05, 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Icemark
what is the point in crappy cheapo oil unless you don't care about the car???
I mean how much does and oil change with a decent brand name oil cost???$15- $20
Less than a tank of gas.
Pretty cheap insurance just to change the oil with the right grade for the temp and of decent quaility...
And how much money would you be saving using brand X oil from your local supermarket??? $5??? ( that would be if it was a dollar a quart cheaper)....
I mean how much does and oil change with a decent brand name oil cost???$15- $20
Less than a tank of gas.
Pretty cheap insurance just to change the oil with the right grade for the temp and of decent quaility...
And how much money would you be saving using brand X oil from your local supermarket??? $5??? ( that would be if it was a dollar a quart cheaper)....
Originally Posted by Mason Rx7
I had some oil sitting in my garage that I wasn't really gonna use because it is a shitty brand. I tried just dumping some through and got A LOT of stuff out. Maybe next time I will pick up some more shitty oil and try running it through the hot engine next time to see what happens.
11-02-05, 11:43 PM
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Cheap crappy oil? Gee, I tried to find that brand but had no luck at Walmart.
Believe it or not, Supertech oil is a fairly decent oil and holds up well for 3,000 mile oil change intervals.
Almost any API SL or SM oil will easily last 3,000 miles in our vehicles.
As for "getting the junk out", what is that about?
I hope the 3 mos/3,000 mile rule isn't something that you folks actually belive applies to piston engines. I'm up to 10,000 mile oil change intervals in my new car and plan on extending it to 20,000 miles once my warranty expires. The factory service interval is 10,000 in the US but in Europe it is 20,000 miles or evfery 2 years.
Storage, my 91 Vert has 26,000 miles on it right now and I guess it is in a constant state of storage. Every two weeks, I start the engine and let it idle for about 15 minutes. If I can, I'll take it out for a 10 mile highway stint-next exit and back on the interstate but that isn't always possible.
Believe it or not, Supertech oil is a fairly decent oil and holds up well for 3,000 mile oil change intervals.
Almost any API SL or SM oil will easily last 3,000 miles in our vehicles.
As for "getting the junk out", what is that about?
I hope the 3 mos/3,000 mile rule isn't something that you folks actually belive applies to piston engines. I'm up to 10,000 mile oil change intervals in my new car and plan on extending it to 20,000 miles once my warranty expires. The factory service interval is 10,000 in the US but in Europe it is 20,000 miles or evfery 2 years.
Storage, my 91 Vert has 26,000 miles on it right now and I guess it is in a constant state of storage. Every two weeks, I start the engine and let it idle for about 15 minutes. If I can, I'll take it out for a 10 mile highway stint-next exit and back on the interstate but that isn't always possible.
Last edited by homebrewer; 11-02-05 at 11:46 PM.
11-02-05, 11:49 PM
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Destroy itself? Please post your oil analysis lab results so we can see how bad it was. If you don't have lab results then pray tell, how did you test your oil, taste test, smell test, color test?
Rotaries typically have issues with fuel dilution of engine oil and shearing. Fuel dilution is worst with short trips.
Rotaries typically have issues with fuel dilution of engine oil and shearing. Fuel dilution is worst with short trips.
11-02-05, 11:57 PM
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Originally Posted by homebrewer
Cheap crappy oil? Gee, I tried to find that brand but had no luck at Walmart.
Believe it or not, Supertech oil is a fairly decent oil and holds up well for 3,000 mile oil change intervals.
Almost any API SL or SM oil will easily last 3,000 miles in our vehicles.
As for "getting the junk out", what is that about?
I hope the 3 mos/3,000 mile rule isn't something that you folks actually belive applies to piston engines. I'm up to 10,000 mile oil change intervals in my new car and plan on extending it to 20,000 miles once my warranty expires. The factory service interval is 10,000 in the US but in Europe it is 20,000 miles or evfery 2 years.
Storage, my 91 Vert has 26,000 miles on it right now and I guess it is in a constant state of storage. Every two weeks, I start the engine and let it idle for about 15 minutes. If I can, I'll take it out for a 10 mile highway stint-next exit and back on the interstate but that isn't always possible.
Believe it or not, Supertech oil is a fairly decent oil and holds up well for 3,000 mile oil change intervals.
Almost any API SL or SM oil will easily last 3,000 miles in our vehicles.
As for "getting the junk out", what is that about?
I hope the 3 mos/3,000 mile rule isn't something that you folks actually belive applies to piston engines. I'm up to 10,000 mile oil change intervals in my new car and plan on extending it to 20,000 miles once my warranty expires. The factory service interval is 10,000 in the US but in Europe it is 20,000 miles or evfery 2 years.
Storage, my 91 Vert has 26,000 miles on it right now and I guess it is in a constant state of storage. Every two weeks, I start the engine and let it idle for about 15 minutes. If I can, I'll take it out for a 10 mile highway stint-next exit and back on the interstate but that isn't always possible.
"Getting the junk out" Do you really think that draining the oil out of your engine and then putting new oil in is gonna clean out what was sitting in the oil cooler or the bottom of the oil pan? There is always some kind of residue. I simply stated that to get some more of that out before storage that you should try this out. I think I might try this next time I change my oil to see what color of oil comes out.
Do many of us have piston enginesin our Rx-7's? I do believe we are talking about rotary engines and I do believe that Mazda specified 3,000 miles or 3 months? Why would we not do what Mazda says is best for our engines?