I have 2000 bucks I've saved up for the seven... Now I just have to figure out my purchasing priorities.... Just got a 91 NA, I'm wondering what kind of stuff I should get first.. and where to get it.

I've been away for a while, and I have a good idea where to start, but I don't know if much has changed.. I value others input. The only thing I've done so far is a K&N cone intake.

Here's the option I'm throwing around in my head...

Exhaust: Headers, presilencer (or cat.. depending on how much I want the car to stink) and Y/cat backs.. and a nice clutch (centerforce, or ACT), and with the rest of the money, just start fixing stuff on it... TPS.... whatever..

Let me know what you think... and if this post sounds stupid... it probably is.. I've been away for a while.

Micah

 

GO for the Turbo II

 

Before doing anything do a full tune up and replace anything that's broken/worn including all old fluids (including tranny and rear end), belts, hoses, plugs, wires, etc. Make sure it's at the top of it's game first. Check the brake pads, flush the fluid, and make sure the rotors are within spec.

Here's some ideas

Wheels and tires: Having a set of high performance summer rubber should be one of the first things on your list. Bigger wheels are almost a must to get a good tire selection. It'll improve the looks and performance of the car. 17x8 Mustang GT wheels are a smoking deal, fit perfectly, aren't too heavy and are the reasonable max width in front. 225/45/17's to go on them, there's TONS of selection in that size. May I suggest getting some RE070's that someone took off an STi, great tires that can be had for a good price.

Suspension: replace the bushings and shocks at very least. If you want more performance then replace the springs too for some lowering and a little stiffer ride and get some nice adjustable shocks. Do sways if you feel like it.

Exhaust: Racing Beat is very good, excellent quality, not too noisy. The single is fine, but the Road Race will give more power.

ECU: An SAFC, Megasquirt or other engine management will gain you power and economy.

Driveline: Don't bother with a new clutch unless the stocker is dead, they're fine for reasonable NA power levels and it's not going to be worth the trouble. Light flywheel maybe, clutch no. Miata Torsen diff, 4.3:1 rear end gear, Miata or FB gears in the tranny.

That'll give you some things to ponder. You really need to be honest with yourself, what do you see yourself doing with the car, what are your priorities and what are you willing to put up with?

 

Well, hmm.. good options... definately a bit to think about. I'm a little hesitant to get new wheels/tires right now, the previous owner just bought new rubber... albeit STOCK rubber, its new none-the-less.. so I'd like to wear it out a bit more before I toss it for some new stuff... I had 225/45/16's on my last RX7.. and the smaller overall size was nice on the pick-up, but bad on the gas mileage/appearance... However, 225/45's are the perfect width.

I forgot to mention, the car came with a set of new KYB Gas Adjustable shocks for the rear... not installed.. Maybe I'll sell them and get a full set of Tokico's front and rear.... I don't think I'll ever lower this thing... I like the stock ride height.. if I ever lowered it.. I would lower it the smallest amount possible.

The racing beat systems is definately what I was looking at. Looks like a nice high quality exhaust with a not-so-agressive look and from what I hear, sound. I am in an emissions exempt zone.. so.. I don't have to have cats.. How much do they stink without cats? If I have to, I'll just go high-flo cat. for the smell. Definately want headers this time... something with an O2 Sensor hole.

Stock ECU for now.

As for clutch, stocker is nearly dead... grabs near the top, has very little bite, and throw-out bearing is making noise (atleast I hope its the throw-out).

The diff is a great idea, and I'll definately do it.. but not now. current one is working fine. In fact, I think its LSD. I can't really tell. Is there a way to visually tell without jacking it up?

Good options though.

 

as for performance. some springs, konis, and a standalone!

standalones help a ton on any RX-7.

Stock ECU sucks *****, period. N/A or turbo. It will make all your N/A mods just that much better, and will be one less thing you need if you swap to turbo.

But if you just got this car, definately do a tune up first. new air filter if its dirty, new plugs and plugwires, replace all cracked hoses and belts, replace your fuel filter.
if you want to do even a little more you could clean/flow your injectors

 

Save a few more and get a good rebuild and have a longer life enjoyable ride with plenty of time and oportunity for advancement.

 

Oh come on guys... tune up is a given. I'm talking performance.. Besides, I'm not going to spend money I saved to spend on toys on tune up crap. Thats what normal money is for. hehe

But honestly, thanks for the input.

 

N/A's last forever, but nice new seals and good compression numbers and a streetport are nice.

I still say do springs, konis and a standalone.
aluminum flywheel if you still have money

hell, the megasquirts are cheap. even a used e6k or other used ecu
anything is better than stock crap

 

Where can I find megasquirts and other such ECU replacements?

 

What exactly are your goals with this car? Are you looking to hit a specific HP number? Are you looking to make big power requiring forced induction? Do you want an NA that doesn't make huge power but looks good, handles awesome, and is reliable?

 

So... my ultimate goal is an extremely streetable car.. practical, good amount of power, yet stock looking, quiet, reliable, handles like a dream.

No forced induction in the future... Not on this car.

No HP goal... just "more than stock"... for what I'm going for, an arbitrary HP number would be frivolous and overly ambitious. I like to set realistic goals. Hehe.

To rephrase the previous comment "Where can I find megasquirts and other such ECU replacements?"....... What are some good sites to shop at, look around, etc? There aren't many places other than pineapple racing in oregon to shop for rotary stuff... so online rocks.

 

When you open the NA's up they become exstreamly loud and moreso as porting goes on. Just be prepaird without like some fansy custom muffler setup without producing back pressure it will be loud.

Basics are simple more air with high velocity in more air with high velocity out. The best thing that can be used is as NODE said a EMS and you can find an EMS section in the ROOT of this forum with all of the EMS needs you could want.

 

Everyone here talking about Megasquirts on naturally aspirated rotaries have no experience with them and/or they have no dyno numbers proving that they make more power. Nor can they somehow prove that a standalone on an FC improves overall driveability. This has been recirculated throughout this forum for a long time, and I believed it, until I learned better from firsthand experience.

You can't control emissions equipment, it's much harder to control idle, A/C doesn't work unless you bypass it from idle control, etc etc etc. I can go on forever. Closed-loop control is a bitch... you need a wideband... you just don't know what you're getting into man. Don't put a standalone onto an FC unless you are willing to play with a laptop every time you drive it. It's not the same as putting a nice Apexi Power FC on a 3rd gen and it all working pretty good out the box.

With some very rare exceptions, standalones on an n/a are science experiments, not better performers--now some of our Megasquirt gurus will of course disagree, and argue about my short lived experience with the thing. Just trust me right now that they have a shitload more knowledge and desire to mess with it than you do.

Full exhaust, good suspension, then call it a day. Don't change the clutch until it starts it slipping either... I've been through this man, believe me...

The SAFC is all you need. Installation is straightforward, the learning curve is short. Lean it out up top a bit. Sure, you can't control timing, but that's like 4 horsepower on an n/a.

 

theres a megasquirt sub forum under the rotary performance section, start there, it will tell you a bit.

They are cheap too, 330, for the full ecu.

 

I think that first, you should upgrade your suspention. Maybe the RB suspention package (springs, sway bars) and some basic struts like tokico HPs or something. Or you could go crazy and get coilovers for a little over a grand.
Onve you get suspention stuff, get the RB dp/presilencer and maybe a catback. Depending on leftover money, you could also get a new PP and lighter flywheel. The stock clutch disk is all you will ever need on an NA if you upgrade the pressure plate.
While a megasquirt is a definate improvement, its probably more than you want to mess with. Its an entire project in itself. Until you get into squeezing out the last bit of performance, a standalone isn't really cost and time effective.

 

Okay, retard alert... whats a standalone... unless you just mean standalone ECU... then I know what that is..

So yeah.. I agree with arghx.. in the past, it was always pretty common sense that you didn't get into aftermarket ECU systems until you were damn sure you wanted to never pass emissions again.... because, as much as I'd love to rip all of my emissions crap off, there's always that chance I'll have to move, or want to move... and if I move to a DEQ non-exempt area, I'll need to throw a cat on.

Also, I've been through this too... back in 99/00' I had over 2000 posts on this board.. I'm really just looking for a refresher course... technology may have changed in 5 years... I WOULD have started the post like that, but I didn't want to sound like a broken record. hehe.

Wish the forum hadn't crashed a couple years ago, would have been nice to retain my account/posts/etc.... So.. in summary, I'm not a n00b.... Not an expert.... I'm a rotarhead in rehab.

 

yes, i mean standalone ecu when i said standalone.

I'm going w/ a wolf 3d v500 on my car.

It's 32 bit, has 125rpm fuel and timing pts and I'm going to run a BMW MAF for vacuum and MAP sensor for boost.
I expect drivability to improve immensely.

Keeping A/C, BAC, ACV, airpump and cat. Lotsa inputs!~

Then again, BAC is one or two wires, ACV is two solenoids and can be triggered w/ a single wire.

But yeah, I kinda biffed, a good tune can make or break a standalone.

Stock ECU is 8bit, its like comparing a NES to a playstation

But yeah, I'm spending a lot more than $2k just on the ECU, having it wired up for me and tuning.

You can most definately pass emissions w/ a standalone

You have an S5 so OMP may be a problem

People have been rewiring Power FCs (FD harness plugs) and running them on s4 and s5 FCs. Those can run electric OMP, but have always been known to cause probs w/ FD A/C which is different than FC A/C

But yeah, I guess I wasn't really thinking when I suggested that, heh. Money buys happiness

 

I remember the Wolf3D system from back in the day..

Are there any aftermarket standalone type ECU's that are emissions friendly?

 

You can pass emissions tests with standalones... There are many people that have done it.

 

There are a lot of people that have gotten the gold medal in pole vaulting.... doesn't make it easy.

The way you said it "...that have done it...." sounds like its hard.

 

My friend passed emissions w/ a Weber sidedraft carb, distributor. Every block off plate, no alcohol in the tank, and a cat w/ an airpump plumbed straight to the cat. No ACV, no nothing.

The ACV is controlled by 2 solenoids and they can be controlled by a single wire. Even just a RPM box off to the side.

Airpump, ACV and cat and a decent tune for emissions. EGR doesnt do **** for emissions on a rotary.

 

You could use your money to overhaul your suspension and driveline:

• All bushings
• Shocks/Springs
• Wheels/Tires
• Engine/Transmission Mounts
• Differential Mounts + Pinion Snubber

 

I'm pretty sure EGR is only on California purchased vehicles. However, mine might have been.. can you see the EGR without pulling the UIM? If I remember correctly, its just under it....

 

Sell the tires. Good tires transform the car. Shitty hard tires last forever and all that time driving around using them up is time wasted that you could have spent enjoying the car.

For most people the SAFC is all they really want or need in terms of engine management.

I've got the RB exhaust, not the header, but the downpipe and all the rest. It does smell, but it's not bad. It will make you feel bad about polluting though. This spring I'm getting a header and a high flow cat, that way I can have performance and cleanliness. Right now the stock cats are back on for winter.

The RB system sounds very nice, it's quiet at low revs, but makes a nice noise up high, and best of all it's very smooth sounding with no raspyness or buszzing. Definetely sounds WAY better than the typical fart can Civic.

I've got stock springs and shocks with RB sways and poly bushings with braces front top and bottom and rear. It handles very nicely actually, understeer at the limit but very stable and predictible, a very good street setup with some better shocks Rides nicely too. If I were to do it again I'd get the Eibach bars for a slightly more tail happy attitude and the adjustable rear bar. For stock springs, adjustable shocks aren't needed and are a waste, something like Tokico Blues or KYB GR-2's are more than enough.

Don't let people convince you that you need boost, an NA can be buttloads of fun too, and more fuel efficient, reliable, cheaper, etc.

 

Well, this being my fifth NA, I know for a fact that they are a LOT of fun. I'm not super serious about speed... fun comes in all shapes and sizes. Any vehicle pushed to its max isn't nearly as practical for every day use either. Which defeats my purposes.

Thanks for the advice/encouragement. I can't wait to get some new shiney stuff.