luis911

iTrader: (2)

damn I was hoping that you would give up on the car and sell it

gavinmosher

if the lights on the tester do not light up at all what could the issue be?

HAILERS

Are you talking about using two LED lights in the six socket , green check connector??? Do you initially get the two lights to come on and then go out a second or so later? Should, if you have no fault codes.

No lights EVER might mean there is no voltage on the BLACK/WHITE wire in the six socket, green check connector. Check the black/white wire with your meter and key to ON.

IF you get the two lights to come on for a second, and then go out and stay out, prove the ECU is working by reaching over there and pulling the TPS plug off or maybe pull the air temp sensor plug off or maybe the boost sensor plug off. With key on and one of those plugs off, the two LEDS should be blinking a code.

Another thing that would keep the lights from working, is if the ECU is not getting power with key to ON. IF a series four car, look at the small plug on the ECU. Check the two wires to the far left with the plug attached to the ECU and key to ON. Batt power should be there.

Series FOUR car error codes are downloaded using the info on this site: http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/article...odes/main.html Only use LED lights doing this check. No common light bulbs etc are allowed.

IF you have NO batt voltage at the black/white wire in the six socket, green check connector, that's good. To me it would explain why no spark. As in the power from the EGI COMP fuse is not getting past the MAIN RELAY or the EGI COMP fuse is blown. Hard to fix cars online. Can't see feel or hear what's happening. Videos don't do much for me. Ain't the same as being there.

The LED red wire should be going to the black/white wire. The other color wire(s) to the other sockets mentioned in the article above. I think the black/white is in the center/top of the green check connector.

gavinmosher

Yes its the green check connector im getting absolutely no lights not even for one second when i turn the key on i do hear the main relay click though

I have a spare main relay and EGI comp fuse going otu to my garage right now to try to figure out a little more



Checked the black/white wire with a multimeter i am getting power when the key is on to that wire.... as for the led lights they wont light up at all when the key is turned on.... but when tested straight to the battery they do so i know its made correctly

gavinmosher

Okay... checked voltage to the coils using the black/white wire and the negative post of my battery im getting full 12v to both coils leading and trailing..... anything else i should check?

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, saw this coming.. The ECU isnt getting power. You should get 2 lights for 2 seconds.. Check the ENG fuse in the circuit panel in the car yet?

gavinmosher

how do i fix that then? yeah its good i already checked it as well
im getting the 5v to the boost/pressure gauge and power to my coils as well just nothing when i spin my spare cas

gavinmosher

Let me clarify i am getting 12v at the coils and 5v at the boost/pressure gauge.... how do i measure the voltage at the CAS and also where in the FSM is the voltages for the ECM. and about the "not getting voltage to the ecu" how do i fix something like that is it an easy fix or is it something deeper

gavinmosher

Tried a N/A computer from my 87 to see if i could get any spark i know it wont work for other stuff in the car i just wanted to see if it got spark.... nothing im beginning to just give it up and wait till i can get the money to have someone rebuild everything i just really need to get her up and running as for my wife and i r sharing the truck because my 88 mustang isnt legal yet

gavinmosher

i peeled back some of the electric tape on the plug to my cas and found some braded wires... is that a ground of some sort? if so its not hooked to anything its just twisted off here is pic to show you

gavinmosher

anyone hve any ideas if that should be a ground or not?

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

I think you really need to concentrate on why your ECU isnt coming on line.

gavinmosher

I got my car to get spark with a N/A computer ordered a new N333 Computer to put in will be running soon

HAILERS

The braid is called a shielded wire and is mean to protect the signal of the wires inside the braiding, from outside interference. That braiding is grounded on the other end of that set of wires. The other end of THAT short harness is somewhere under the brake booster area.

Just put a meter on ohms, one lead to a proven ground like the batt neg post, and the other lead to the shielding. The meter will read under one ohm proving that braiding is grounded. NOt being grounded will not neccesasarily mean the signal of the four wires inside the shieldiing will be corrupted.

I guess I misspoke about the LED's and no power to the black/white wire in the six socket plug. The only other reason the LED would not light up.......is if the ECU isn't pulsing a gnd to those other two wires............or the LED being connected up *** backwards. Pos wire of the LED has to go to the black/white wire in the six socket plug.