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1988 10th AE Cranks But No spark or fire

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Old 08-30-09, 01:09 AM
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Angry 1988 10th AE Cranks But No spark or fire

Okay guys i bought a 10th AE yesterday it turns over freely and cranks when i turn the key.... BUT when i pull a plug and wire to see if it has any spark...> Nothing. SOOOOO what the heck do i do to fix it? i have already put new wires and new coil packs as well.... please help anyone its a beautiful car and i just want her to run again
Old 08-30-09, 01:15 AM
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Could it be the CAS? and if so how do i check to see if it is bad?
Old 08-30-09, 01:20 AM
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Dont give yourself headaches man, Ill give u my perfectly working 1989 gxl with 50,000 miles on it for that. Ill take your headache from you no problem
Old 08-30-09, 01:25 AM
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Lol i know she is a rare one i just want it to fire.... its driving me nuts man it will turn over all day with the starter just doestn want to fire Zero Spark at all
Old 08-30-09, 01:39 AM
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check the battery man. Think simple first then start looking at the more complicated things that can possibly be wrong, I really dont have much to add besides that advice, oh and also search is your friend.
Old 08-30-09, 01:42 AM
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Look I found something for you that might work, try to start the car while your pushing it. http://www.ehow.com/how_7414_push-start-car.html let me know how it goes.
Old 08-30-09, 01:51 AM
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The battery is strong its brand new.... it turns the starter fine with no problems it is just not sparking at all.... and i used search just cant seem to find any answers to how to fix the problem.... i just replaced the Main Relay.... nothing again just no spark
Old 08-30-09, 01:53 AM
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You have nothing to lose by push starting it and it might just work, even if the battery is perfectly fine. Just do it right now and let me know
Old 08-30-09, 02:10 AM
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Nothing happened any different had my wife pop the clutch and same zip.... I read in another post that the "AFM" being replaced made it have spark again.... what exactly is the AFM and wheres it located i have another second gen sitting outside just parts car with no motor.


EDIT.... AFM is basically the Mass Airflow Sensor.... anyways could that be causing my spark issue?

Last edited by gavinmosher; 08-30-09 at 02:13 AM.
Old 08-30-09, 02:28 AM
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im gettin irritated seriously.... i put spare coils on it spare main relay and tried it again.... i even put the ecu out of the other car on it and NOT a THING.... what could be my problem????? anyone please help i want to see this 10th AE back on the road
Old 08-30-09, 07:18 AM
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For spark your ENGINE fuse in the interior has to be good. IF you jumper the yellow fuel pump check connector and put the key to ON and hear the pump running continuously, then the ENGINE fuse is good.

The coil assy's have to be bolted to the chassis with at LEAST one bolt or more. Extra gnd wires will do NOTHING for you. Just make sure they are bolted down as in the original configuration.

EGI fuses have to be good. Pwr goes from the EGI fuse to the MAIN RELAY (which is pulled in by the ENGINE fuse if the key is ON or better). Pwr goes from the MAIN RELAY to the coils...injectors and the ECU.

You put the key to START.........the motor turns over causing the CAS to rotate..........CAS signal goes to the ECU...........ECU sees the signal and times the spark signal to the lead and trail coil assy's plus pulses the primary fuel injectors. Car starts up then.

Sounds like you have some spare parts. Grab the spare CAS and plug it into the harness on the engine. Key to ON. Spin the spare CAS's bottom gear. Spark should occur. You don't want to spin the starter when doing this, please. With the starter not Loading up the battery the spark should be able to be heard if not seen by laying the sparkplug wires next to the left strut tower studs.
Old 08-30-09, 10:21 AM
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i plugged in a spare cas and nothing so it will crank without fire if the engine fuse is not any good? and where is the fuse block located on these cars? and also how do i jumper the fuel pump where is the jumper wire located in the engine bay can anyone give me a good idea of where to look.

Last edited by gavinmosher; 08-30-09 at 10:23 AM.
Old 08-30-09, 10:43 AM
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http://www.rotaryheads.com/PDF/2nd_gen/index.html do yourself a favor and read the fsm if you plan on ever comprehending what is under your hood without running back and forth to a keyboard.
Old 08-30-09, 11:21 AM
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Those are the only two things i need to know right now.... is where is the jumper wire for the fuel pump and also the fuse block...

Okay found the fuse block up under on the left side of the car but which one is the engine fuse and also i still just need to know where the jumper wire is for the fuel pump any help would be appreciated thanks

Last edited by gavinmosher; 08-30-09 at 11:26 AM.
Old 08-30-09, 12:27 PM
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The attached picture is of someone else's car on this forum. The yellow connector is shown. You jumper the two sockets in that plug.....put the key to ON.........fuel pump runs continuosly proving the ENGINE fuse is indeed good.

Fuse boxes are shown in the FAQ section of this forum and in the BODY ELECTRICAL section of the free online FSM.

Stare at the tach needle. Then put the key to ON. IF the tach needle makes a very small bump, then there is indeed spark at the trail coils at least and also proves there is power to the ECU and the MAIN RELAY is pulled in and the EGI fuse is good.
Attached Thumbnails 1988 10th AE Cranks But No spark or fire-fuelpumpcheckconnector.jpg  
Old 08-30-09, 02:01 PM
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Okay.... I jumpered the fuel pump.... Nota thing happened but the tach did jump a tiny bit when i put the key to on.... so is the engine fuse no good?
Old 08-30-09, 02:55 PM
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Tach couldn't jump a tiny bit unless the ENGINE fuse is good. Engine fuse provides power to the MAIN RELAY which feeds the ECU which causes Spark indirectly.

Odd the pump does not run. Jumper the plug and key ON and pull the fuel filler cap off and listen for the pump running.

Or instead of jumpering the yellow two socket fuel pump check connector do this............key ON engine OFF. Pull the air filter out and shove back on the vane inside the afm a half inch at least. Pump should run. Write back as to what happened. Actually if the vane is shoved aft a 1/16 inch the pump should run. No need to push back on the vane more than a half inch. No gain there.

ENGINE fuse is in the interior and the label on the fuse box cover is shown in the FAQ thread above.

Make sure the electrical plug is on the AFM.

Some people install a fuel cut switch somewhere near the steering column. Ask the fellow you bought it from if it had/has a fuel cut switch you might have unkowningly flipped.
Old 08-30-09, 03:01 PM
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NO SPARK------Check your AFM---air flow meter, its attached just underneath the air cleaner. Don't take the screws out!!!! at the wiring connector---I did and totally Fk'ed mine up. They can be purchased aftermarket now. Seems I read somewhere on here, that you can also possibly get fire if it is disconnected, but only to prove the bad AFM--it won't be driveable.

If you have an FSM---it will also walk you through the troubleshooting procedure for the FSM

That's how I figured out I really screwed up taking the screws out---good luck, hope you get it running
Old 08-30-09, 06:05 PM
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idk guys im really lost i had a 83GXl and it ran perfect im so lost as to what might be causing my fuel fire problem
Old 08-30-09, 06:36 PM
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Is the EGI fuse good?

Do as suggested. pull the plug off the AFM and give it a try. There's a spring clip that holds the plug on. The engine does not use the afm for fuel during start, but if the ref voltage wire is shorted to gnd, then that would keep the engine from sparking or fuel injection.

Give the engine a break. Pull the lower spark plugs out and look at the sparkplug wire to see if its firing when you spin the starter over or not. The reason for this is: there will be no Load on the engine so it'll spin faster and less drain on the battery. Your looking just for spark right now.

I'd get me a digital meter to work on the car. To look for batt voltage at the lead and trail coils and things like that.

Actually, the bump of the tach needle indicates there is spark. Maybe the starter is putting too much of a load on the battery and the low voltage is effecting things.
Old 08-30-09, 10:23 PM
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the Bump is VERY miniscule like hardly noticable and only when you turn the key to on it just b barley bumps and then nothing after that.... And my fuel pump isnt even screwed in yet i had it pulled when i swapped fuel tanks so i can hear if it were running or not.... it sucks that this is my only problem no spark or fuel.... its irritatiing im so close to it running but it wont...
Old 08-31-09, 01:20 PM
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anyone have any more ideas to what could be the problem?
Old 08-31-09, 01:34 PM
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Plug the ECU tester lights into the DIAG port. This will tell you alot about what the ECU is doing (or not doing).

http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/article...odes/main.html

And for the love of god, BE PATIENT and DO WHAT HAILERS asks you too!
Old 08-31-09, 05:01 PM
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im doing exactly what he asks he knows alot more than i do lol. So i unplugged the afm and nothing still i even tried a spare afm i have off another car. what part could be shorted to ground? and im picking up a DMM tomorrow i have to work tonight so its kinda hard to get out
Old 08-31-09, 06:29 PM
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Okay breakthrough i put the fuel pump out of the other car into this one and jumpered it it worked like a charm after undoing a fuel line i got drenched with fuel haha soooo now its just a issue of spark


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