I have been really interested in the rx7 since I read the howstuff works article a bit more than a year ago; this is my first timeon this board. I am a student and don't exactly have a load of cash, but am looking for something sporty to replace my dodge dakota. I found a 1987 rx7 that a guy is selling for $200.

State
The car is not running. Obviousley, sitting has allowed the gas to seperate and likely rubber seals to crack. The car was driven off a road and needs a new bumper cover, and the repaired (non-painted) fenders have rusted again. The car has 106k miles on it and I can assume it was not driven incredibly heavily. The interrior is very nice looking for an 87.

Hopes in starting the engine
As I do not wish to afford an engine rebuild I went ahead and checked the compression as Aaron suggests. I removed one spark plug and was able to hear pstts as the rotor turned; this tells me that it has some compression. When I took out the spark plug it was filled with seperated gasoline (rusty style) from sitting and a previous interested party trying to start the engone without removing the injection fuse.

My plans for getting it to run would be paying the $200.
-Pumping the gas tank.
-mineral spiriting the injectors
-cleaning or replacing plugs
-wd40ing each plug hole and intake

How do these plans sound?

What is the easiest way to get to the spark plugs? I had trouble getting to the plugs at the angle esp with the AC.

Also, in case this does not work what are some normal prices for 4 wheels, a transmission, a core motor?

 

Expect to do a rebuild. If not immediately, in the near future. If you don't need one, it's cash in your pocket, but expect to need one.

My personal method of getting to the spark plugs on a S4 (same series as the one you're looking at) is to put the socket on the spark plug, and then slide the ratchet down & hook it to the socket. Trying to get the whole unit on a plug is challenging due to space issues.

-=Russ=-

 

If end up not gettin it, let me know. I'd be interested in picking up a seven with a decent body for that price.

 

I would also say put some heavy oil in the rotor housings and spinning it by hand a few times let it sit. Then repeat a couple of times. This will just help the the seals make better compression. They only thing is when you start it after doing that be ready for it to smoke alot.

 

If you don't have money, don't get a car with a blown engine. SPECIALLY not an FC. I bought one with a GOOD engine and have already dumped about $4k into restoring it and its not even done yet!

 

Rust is evil.

(I love those one-liners)

If it's a rust bucket, I would run the other way.

hugues-

 

Man, unless you're prepared to immediately rebuild the engine, braking system, clutch hydraulics, fuel system, power steering hydraulics, and cooling system, don't even waste your money on her...

 

I was in the same situation. Mine hasn't run in 6 years, but after putting some good fuel in, replacing the fuel pump (we determined it wasn't working), it started up somehow, but now after an oil change (the stuff in it was dark black), and a diy engine bay cleaning using water and degreaser it won't start anymore. It will spin but no starting it however will come very close to it.

 

I bet your fuel pump or injectors are clogged. After 6 years of sitting that can happen. You run a compression test since it fired off?

 

No didn't get a compression check b/c i don't have access to the equiptment. I don't have anything at home and the car doesn't have current plates to take it somewhere. The fuel pump was just replaced and you can hear the engine getting fuel when pressing on the gas.

 

If you werent careful you could have gotten water in the intake when you pressure washed it.

 

i wouldnt go putting much faith in a car that hasnt run for that long, there are just way too many things to concider. for 200 bucks it might seem like a deal but youd end up spending 20 times that getting the thing in good running order. fc parts are not cheap, im a student with 3 fc's and its taking me alot of money and time restoring them. i love fc's but i will say they are not a good car to work on with a strict budget.

 

i've driven a car with plates that were out by over a year... i even got pulled over... but i told them i had just gotten it out of the shop and hadn't had a chance to get it registered etc and they let me off

 

Hey... thanks for all the advice and experience. I still think I might try it and try my luck.

Again, whats the best way to do the plugs? I already figured out the socket on before the ratched, but the forward ones would still seem difficult with the AC and (power steering?) pump. I fiigure somebody has got some secret to get them out extremely rapidly and easily.

Should I try a lil atf quickly to break down all that rust? or should i stay away from causing more potential damage? I guess i should try just wd-40 type stuff first.... when it seems last ditch try atf.

 

sar - I'd say go for it, buy the car, have fun I got my car for 200 dollars.. the way I looked at it, even if it broke on the wayhome, i'd get to take apart a rotary engine.. . I'm still at less than 2000 for the whole project (rebuild/paint/interior/misc) so far..

you may want to just drop the AC off, if you're having trouble getting your ratchet in there.. I don't remember how hard mine was to get to the plugs with the A/C in, since the AC pump was only in there about a week. I'm assuming you'r enot going to worry about A/C at leas initially, and you'd probably have to re-charge it later anyway.

That should give you plenty of room to play down there.

as for the oil, I'm going to have to agree with 300zx that going with a heavier weight engine oil (20w50 maybe?) would be you better bet. save the ATF and wierder oils for if you have trouble. SInce you've already read Aaron Cake's instructions, i'm not goign to repeat them, but just remember to rotate the engine by hand a few times when you put oil in the plug holes.. If you get it running, you can slowly work towards redline (over the course of a week or three), and that will help graudually remove any carbon.. Aafter that, you can try to burn the carbon out slowly, or water clean the inside, etc, etc etc...

welcome to the rotary world I hope your first experience will be neither your first or bad

 

my rx7 engine sat for 2 years and i did nothing and she fired rite up....(ide put some libe in the housings like a week before attemting a start) also new plugs will make a huge difference and new gas will help

 

The car has been sitting for five years hu. Well it's just my opinion, but the way I see it, the car is nothing more than a parts car now. All the rubber lines would be bad. The main thing is that the seals themselves inside the engine are more than likely wasted. Meaning a rebuild upwars of 4 grand or more from what I have been qouted. That is unless you do it yourself. That is always the fun part