maritan

Hey guys,

A 1987 red Mazda Rx-7 for sale with 151K on the clock. Apparently everything is fine with the car, EXCEPT... the car started about 2 weeks ago, but his roommate messed with it, and now it doesn't start. The owner says it could be something electrical. He says the rotors turn over but it doesn't catch. It's going for just $500 - what do you guys think? Should I go for it? I'll go check the car out today or over the weekend if possible. I won't commit today - and I obviously can't take a test drive. What are your thoughts?

I will be working on the car myself. I'm what you guys can consider a beginner shade tree mechanic. I'm willing to put in the time and hard work though....

1987RX7guy

iTrader: (3)

for 500 bux that is good for me. I bought my parts car for 300. It is proly something simple but cet a compression tester and see if it is still good.

Icemark

Probably flooded...

You may wish to use the search function found in the upper right hand corner of this page next time...

But to solve your problem:

Try cranking with your accell pedal all the way down. DO NOT PUMP it, just keep your foot all the way down on the accell until it is running. It will dump a ton of smoke once it starts running.

If it really doesn't want to start when doing the above, then pull the spark plugs, clean them, put in just a half a teaspoon of ATF into each spark plug hole, and reinstall the plugs. Then try cranking, but this time without touching the accell pedal.

maritan

Icemark, yes I do know about the ATF procedure. I did look it up both on this forum and on another site (www.rotaryresurrection.com). So in theory I know what to do.

I'm just wondering, if the problem could be something as "simple" as flooding or something much more "complex" for a shade tree mechanic to handle.

1987RX7guy

iTrader: (3)

most things are easy to fix on rotaries. all you have to is learn as you go. It could be something like the alternator. When mine went bad the car would turn but not crank then it would just click then nothing but all the lights would work. Thank god i had a spare alt.

Icemark

Unless you know of something specific that the previous owner modified, I would start with the simplist things like flooding.

Just pulling the plugs should tell you right there... if they are all wet chances are that is your problem.

Don't forget to change the oil ASAP after you get it running. It is sure to be fouled with gas and ATF (if you use the ATF).

BRealistic

Heay Maritan, good to see you here.
Is this the original engine? How long has the owner had the car, and does he have any service records?
I agree with Icemark- start with the basics.
I forgot that a severely flooded engine removes the oil from the apex seals, which kills compression. Good luck.

dr0x

I would not unflood it before paying it. When the owner see it runs the price goes up atleast a grand. Pay for it, unflood it and drive it home.

crazyjim

well if he's any kind of a man, if you agree on a price before hand then no matter what you should do it. However, if he say's it could be something simple, he already knows it's cheap and doesn't care... ooooor he knows it's something major and wants to screw someone.

Your call man, good luck!

Swift_7

It's flooded! Very simple. Pull the fuse while starting the car. This turns the motor without gas going in. Do this for a about 5 seconds and then put the fuse back in while the engine is turning. It will probably spark a little and die again. But don't give up. Just keep trying.

Rotary engines are know for bad seals and leaking injectors. "IT SHOULD START". If it doesn't it could be simple as the spark plugs.

Swift_7

"Icemark"
Giving it more gas, is the last thing you want to do.

Icemark

Actually if you were to open and read the factory FC owners manual, under starting you would see to unflood the car you should hold the accell pedal all the way down without pumping or lifting, while cranking (usually section 3.3 in the owners manuals).

Pulling the fuse or any of the switch bypasses simple are a waste of time.

It is generally believed on the S4 cars this opens the throttle plates all the way allowing more air in to help clear the flood. It is also belived that with the engine not running and the TPS consitently fully activated, that injection may be retarded.

On the S5 cars the fully open throttle while the engine is not running is seen as a flooded and the ECU cuts fuel injection all together.

Again, it is my belief that reading (and comprehending) your owners manual should be manditory for anyone, before the RX-7 is sold to them.