KingCobraV9

iTrader: (2)

Hey guys I recently installed a autometer temperature gauge into the back of my water pump housing right by my ecu sensor.
But now I am reading about 195 when I'm moving down the road and at times it will go up to a little over 200. When I stop again it goes back down to 180 after a few second.
I also recently installed a greddy front mount and a koyo rad with a e-fan. I have the factory undertray on also.
anyone have any ideas as to why my temps might be like this? Or tips on getting them down...

Black Knight RX7 FC3S

iTrader: (7)

I have the same problem.
I have a huge FMIC thats blocking the air flow path to the radiator. At high speed the FMIC is pushing air or directing most of the airflow away from the radiators path. At low speed its not a problem since the fan will suck in air through the radiator in the surrounding vicinity of the FMIC.
Putting in air ducts to direct air to the radiator seems to work for me.

Also, it can be a problem with the efan. If your efan has a big shroud that covers the radiator, and the only opening it has is the cutout for the fan, then the only places the hot air can escape from is the fan opening, and air flowing into the shroud will create lots of turbulence between he rad and the shroud. I noticed this when I had a simple 16 inch fan on my koyo that at highway speed, the temp is 10f colder then when driving in the city, but when I installed a fan with a shroud that covers the entire rad, my temps actually is higher on the highway then driving in the city. So I created some duct works to divert air and cut some slits in the shroud. But I didnt need to make any slits since the fan itself is a huge 18incher.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

The behaviour you describe is exactly opposite of what one would expect...very weird.

I have found that at speed I need no fannage and temps stabilize in the 180-190° range (OEM Mazda thermostat).
Temps in traffic/idling rise as airflow decreases and lower RPM slows the waterpump till the efan kicks in at 195°.

Do you have AC?
Stock radiator (which works fine, just curious)?

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

You are expecting the temps to run at stock numbers?

Let me restate your post.

You have an underdrive pulley, so your water pump is turning slower than Mazda planned.

You have an FMIC, so your Radiator is getting less 'ram' air at speed than Mazda planned.

You have an e-fan, so your fan can only run *1* speed, which is likely moving less air than Mazda planned for when the coolant temp is 200*.


Tell me again, why are you asking the question????

KingCobraV9

iTrader: (2)

Well jackass you can't read can you. Stock pulley. Koyo rad. and lots of people have front mounts so dont post if you can't help. As for the fan it doesn't cover the entire rad and it's open to air flow I feel. No ac, condenser or anything. What have you made your ducting out of to direct air

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

most people with front mounts also complain about increased water temps...

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

Metal works.

lastphaseofthis

iTrader: (8)

Personally.. is 220 really too hot? i mean a stable 220? i've noticed on one of my stock FC's with A/c on at 80 mph it will go up to 228(rtek) and stay there. if i turn the a/c OFF it drops back to 210ish. if i leave the a/c on and slow down to 70mph it goes back down to around 215. This is with an undertray/stock rad/stock clutchfan(working).

Technically what is over heating? when the antifreeze/water boils? thats around 240. depending on consentration. 50/50 is 265+ accord to the back of an antifreeze container here at work. personally i run 30ish percent antifreeze/70 water, as water transfersheat slightly better.

check your antifreeze/water ratio... and maybe try some redline water wetter. report back with your results.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

The factory thermostat cracks open at 82C (180F) and opens fully at 95C (203F). Your thermostat isn't even open fully at exactly 200F. The factory s5 supplementary electric fan comes on at 97C (207F). This is the same temperature that the Rx-8 fans begin to come on (with A/C off). The FD runs very hot from the factory during the summertime. The fans don't even start to come on until 105C (220F) with the A/C off. The OP's car is fine as long as the temperature is stable.

Running cooler than that would be better. Considering the FD ran that hot off the showroom floor, I wouldn't consider it dangerously hot. There are literally thousands of FD's on the road running at 220F/105C every single day during the warmer months. Of course the FD has its share of cooling-related problems, but you aren't going to blow a coolant seal on a healthy engine from running at 220F for a sustained period of time.

I consider anything higher than 108C/226F unacceptably hot for a sustained period. This isn't an arbitrary number.

I don't think it's a coincidence that both the FD and Rx-8 run the fans at highest speed when temperatures reach 108C/226F. See https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/why-engine-so-damn-complicated-part-3-cooling-fan-controls-876767/

If you think 205F is high you should see how hot some piston engines run from the factory.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

yes but generally hotter water temps translate into higher internal combustion temps, higher IATs and higher EGTs. i get out of boost after about 225ish, coincidentally very near your figure but i don't pull off the road or anything drastic. i will keep driving my car on up to about 240*F, beyond that i will pull off the road and let the fans work for a few minutes. with a large turbo like mine you can't be too picky when pulling 3,000ft 20 mile grades.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

It helps to have engine management that allows you to richen the mixture and retard timing at higher air and water temperatures.

KingCobraV9

iTrader: (2)

Well I know the coolant mix is more than ok. And I will try a little water wetter some time. But from what you all are saying I shouldn't even worry about it unless I see 225-230 area? It's not getting hot fast and is a fairly steady temp. What temprature would you recommend I set the fan for. Right now it's set for about 195

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

Poor manners, thin skin, poor reading skills> the actual term is JackWagon, and it's in my sig.

Sorry I missed on the pulley. I misread undertray /underdrive. Blame my reading skills, not my diagnostic skills

The rest of my post stands.

You have inadequate airflow -frontmount.

You have an inadequate fan (maybe more inadequacies) the shroud of which doesn't even cover the face of the rad.

You formerly did not know what temps you were actually running. Were you happy then?

You only just now became aware of the actual temperature of your coolant after the gauge install. Maybe you should take the gauge out and rely on the OEM system, then you would be happy again.

But seriously listen to the other posts. You should EXPECT the temps to run higher with your setup. Change some of the system, change the temps.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

its all about shrouding.


a front mount will block airflow to the radiator. take the front mount off and just run a pipe. log temps after a nice drive down the highway staying out of boost.

did the temps end up being better? yes now? put the fmic back on.

remove the electric fan and put the stock fan back on. you can make the stock shroud work if you are good enough. log temps. better? yes? no? if yes, keep it.
then test the intercooler again. does it get cooler? yes? no? if yes, keep the ic removed and find a better solution.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Honestly dude based on your post I think your **** is fine as long as the temperature isn't spiking. It sounds like your thermostat is opening fully at 203F and the temps are just staying right around there. You could keep the fan where it's at. You could turn it on at a lower temperature but then it would be cycling more. It's really up to you.

My T2 runs around 200-205F on the highway when it's ***** hot outside. It's been like that for years and it's fine (Greddy 3 row FMIC + Fluidyne radiator).

sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

+1
Those temps are nothing to worry about. With a v-mount and no working a/c temps are around 185-190 on the highway. If I keep moving they stay around that in town, but in stop and go traffic they creep up to 220-230. I suspect the lack of airflow to the oil cooler is the main culprit so I will look into creating an efan setup for that.

Btw my efan(s) come on at 194.

jlaudio982

I recommend blocking off the hood scoop when you go to a fmic. It helped me alot with my cruise temps.