this wat i got so far. wat u guys think??

 

The port doesn't look bad, but your housing looks a bit worn.

 

I think your ports are very close to being too..... W-I-D-E if you place the rotor against the plate and then install 2 block pins into your rotor housing,and notice where the side seal is rubbing if you have advanced the port opening too much(towards the rotor housing)... the side seal may fall out of the corner seal ,..... as it is,................ the tip of the side seal may drop slightly out of the corner seal as the port is closing ,therefore ,it would make sense to draw a line to the port corner and square off the corner of the port where the seal closes (see port 2 photo left upper) ,that way it will not break off the tip of the of the side seal , if it falls out momentarily, as it goes by

 

Ok its pretty dam close looks bout where the side seal is. Wat u mean by square off the port

 

the leading edge of ur sideseal is gonna fall into the port, might have some issues with corner seal support as well

 

that's a stupid wide port, bet it's too wide to the point of the side seals dropping into the port completely.

 

where the side seal runs should be fully supported to the point where it touches the corner seal near the edge. You have rounded out the top of the port, which under normal porting would be acceptable but if too much material is removed then there is nothing to stop the drop out of the side seal, I think you may have gone too Far,if so you may have to scrap the plate ,and next time go UP instead of OUT,a longer port is more acceptable than A really wide one,which will cause complications with corner seal, and side seal support try looking at my photo of the ports I have pics of,Experimental Rotary's( the black one ), that photo is my race car Primary port ,(It's huge but not too wide, PS not for the street) look at the difference...........in side seal corner seal support.............good luck

 

after looking at the photo closely even squaring off the left upper corner of the port,will not help as too much material has been removed from the left side of the port....

 

Alright. Ima need a different plate any ideas where to get at decent price?

 

Found 1 on ebay. It's for s4 though its the same?

 

http://shop.mobileweb.ebay.com/searc...+plate&x=0&y=0

 

can you measure from the inner coolant seal edge to the edge of the port. It really depends on how far out it really is from the pics it looks pretty wide. its worth measuring

 

Yea ima have to get back to u guys late 2nite working now

 

From bottom of port. 3/8 and top is jus over 1/4 inch. I put housing onto plate and then measured as well is even smaller. It's jus a bit too wide. So any ideas where to get a new plate?

 

WOWlol ok well i am interested in helping but lets GET REAL just over 1/4 inch is not a measurement for such importance of this matter. Go to harbor freight and buy a digital caliper and MEASURE THE CORRECT WAY. And measure in metric after all you are working on a non american japanese car.

here is a link to a digital caliper its a good addition to anyone working on cars
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-inch-...per-47256.html

 

Good advise. A caliper has many uses. Great investment. I don't even understand sae system. It makes my head hurt. Metric FTW.

 

Oh come on. You grew up using SAE like everyone else in the US and you know it, so it's just as easy as anything.

Oh, that's right. Metric is more JDM......

 

How many inches in 7 feet?
How many teaspoons is in a pint?
How many pints in a gallon?
What is the next size wrench bigger than 9/16"? Are you sure?
How many inches in a yard? What is a yard?

SAE is not easy. It sucks. It must be based on booze consumed ^ 61 % brain cells left.

 

it's not hard, but it is compared to metric. with metric you don't have to use bullshit conversion factors between units of the same ******* kind of measurement, which is basically what tuscanidream is saying. additionally, IIRC the FSM specs small lengths in mm.

 

just over a 1/4 inch is not a measurement in anyway especially when there is the importance of internal engine specs. god i swear some of the dumbest people in the world get on this forum just to make stupid comments

 

lol metric for the win.

Cant you guys change over, its only the US, Myanmar, and Liberia are the only countries that don't use metric....

 

i use SAE all the time and it's a pita to convert inches to fractions of an inch for comparison.

 

Not knocking the metric system at all. It's easier, I admit. I won't say that SAE confuses me though. I'm good with fractions, and know most conversion factors off the top of my head. I'm just saying that we all know we're not used to seeing metric, that's why SAE can't logically make my head hurt. You walk by the bank and see the sign that says 29C. Do you really know how hot that is? How fast is 70Kph? Is that even fast?

Sorry for the derail. No matter what your unit of measurement, use the proper tool. For small stuff like engine clearances, a measuring tape won't suffice. If you're building an engine without a caliper, a feeler gauge set, some micrometers, and plastigage, then you're doing yourself a disservice. I'd hate for you to get it all back together only to find out it runs poorly because a side seal was clearanced using your thumbnail (it's only an example, not calling you an idiot like ^^^^ did).

 

NO pistons. take a large piece of paper like a file folder place it on top of your next plate, place 2 dowel pins into plate piercing the folder folder ,with the folder in place rum either your hands or a pencil over the existing port cut out the port from the paper. now on the paper raise the port 3-4 mm then slightly widen the port approx 3mm,,next cut out the extended port from the paper,then transfer the larger port template to the cast plate with a black marker,then,once you have checked out the marks ,to make sure your ports are not too big with your grinder , just dress(clean up) the bottom of the port gently to smooth out the rough cast,,then trim away the black marks you made use care and caution when grinding and stay with in the marks always leave a little material behind (do not go all the way to the edge of your marks yet),then port the runners next , when the runners are finished then finish off the inside port , to avoid grinding the surface of the plate use DUCT tape( 2 or more layers )and cover the area around the port to prevent the grinder from touching the surface by mistake.....remember let the side seal be fully supported , at least let the side seal have 2-3mm of cast plate under it where it touches the corner seal

 

Take a thick piece of plexiglass and mark out the dowel holes. Use your die grinder if thats all you have and very carefully get the dowels to go through the holes so it cant move when you put it on the plate with the dowels inserted. Trace out the STOCK ports and then grind them out so its the exact same size as the stock port.

Now setup a plate with a stat gear and a housing and carefully set in a rotor with the outside oil seal and the side seal springs and side seals. Now set the plexiglass on the dowels and slowly move the rotor arround and learn why that port you did will not work. The oil seal and the side seals will leave marks on the plexi that really show whats going on. You can use the same peice of plexi for primary and secondary ports.

Its a great way to get an understanding of what works and WHY some stuff does not.