airworks-fc3s

actually it would be 340 at the flywheel! don't think the stage 2 will push much more...


guys, sorry for the missing pics, but at the moment i'm very busy!
the engine is running very smooth and strong (as far as i can say revin' to 3500 )! the double oil cooler setup is very effective!! oil temps never reached more than 194 degr. F when i was driving around wednesday, last year i easily reached 260 F!

the exhaust valve is working perfectly! when i close it shut, it sounds like a honda civic, and when i let it open a few degrees it's just perfect to drive around town without being stopped by the police every 5 minutes... and when it's completely open... rooooarrrrrr

there's one issue: idle and slight throttle (cruise ) it's stuttering... it's very annoying! if i hit the gas it's perfect. only if i try to cruise at constant speed it start stuttering (ref. to AFR gauge it's MUCH to lean... therefore not running properly).
could it be possible that,
either: due to the earlier opening of the ports i have less vacuum in the intake manifold, making the ECU think it's less air entering and therefore giving less fuel...
or: i hooked up the wire for the stock lambda sond to the narrowband output of the AEM AFR, could it be possible that the signal is wrong and the ECU is trying to correct that?

please help!!

airworks-fc3s

ok thanks for the advice...

these are the pics of the assembly and the "going in" of the engine!

airworks-fc3s

exhaust system with valve

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Engine looks nice and the exhaust looks very clever but I can't believe you didn't scrub down the engine bay while it was wide open.

airworks-fc3s

i solved the problem with part throttle hesitations...

fyi: the stock O2 sensor send a special info to the ECU. it can not be replaced by a wideband sensor, hooking up the narrowband output to the ECU!! 'cause i hooked up my stock sensor to the stock wire and ... surprise... the hesitation is gone!


pics from the car ready to rollllll....

adrock3217

I have a question for you. What are you doing about intercooling?


Also, why are you using such a restrictive hose for the turbo inlet duct?

airworks-fc3s

intercooling:



that hose is about 3inches in diameter and has one little 20degree bend, why do you think it is restricitve? i think that is the most reasonable way to mount the AFM to the turbo!

cmanns

How you do that to your brake lights? I looked for the topic awile back..

Anyways pretty car! Only thing I'd say would improve the look is to have the brake lights back to black, its just alittle too much red in the back & maybe pain RX-7 & MAZDA back to black

ProjectR13B

iTrader: (1)

thats a bad *** engine.

antnicuk

great looking conversion, some good work, I like the idea of using two oil coolers, I may have missed it but are they in series or parallel, how did you plumb them in?

is 194 degrees good for normal driving around, what was the ambient air temp?, i would have liked to see lower than that for normal driving around?

Glad you got it running ok on the stock ECU

adrock3217

Ah ok, I must have missed the pic of the intercooler.


Also, that pipe is restrictive, not due to size, but because of the ribbing on the inside. For a turbo inlet duct (this same may be true for all intakes, but entirely sure) you want the smoothest, least resistant intake path possible. This will cause all sorts of turbulence inside your inlet, and while you may not notice it, it would be beneficial to switch to a heat-wrapped smooth (aluminum? steel?) pipe.

When going for maximum efficiency, you wouldn't want to use that inlet.


Edit: Love your choice of shift ****. For my FC, it was between the RX8 **** and the Mazdaspeed. Guess which one I chose

airworks-fc3s

open them up by puttin' them in the oven. then take out the white covers that are between... simple

i like the rear alot like this! ... and: there's no black gone away from the lights... just the surroundings

airworks-fc3s

thanks man!

they are run in parallel! it gives quite a good decrease in oil temps (about 30degr. C less)! ambient was normally like 24 C.

yesss i'm glad too... idle is bit lumpy, maybe because of the porting and removal of emission... i think the ECU doesn't get it perfectly well (loss of vacuum)... but it works

airworks-fc3s

ok i hear you! could be better, maybe i'll do it with alum. ducting but later

oh yeah the RX-8 shifter is very cool in FC's i think i fits quite well to the design...

antnicuk

How did you run it in parallel, do you have any pictures?, what sort of T piece did you use?
i assume you came out of the engine and split and then went back into one on the way back to engine???

stylEmon

iTrader: (2)

i couldnt exactly tell,are you keeping the AFM in the stock location? you can still upgrade to a custom intake and keep the AFM. That stock inlet duct aint too great.

I dont mean to critisize, but you've done a great job lowering oil temps, you should also put the same effort into intake temps. they are just as important (if not more) for your turbo.

That is a really clean vert you got there!

DASUPACAT1

Is that an oe rx8 6pd shift ****?

Sobr609

iTrader: (2)

so you had a 13bt in before? wasnt doing the job..cause im sure the 13bt had to be quick..you just wanted more power i guess? looks beautiful im not big fan of convertables..but your is a beauty..good luck

airworks-fc3s

**** sorry guys! i mixed it up... i run the coolers in series! i think that was the best and most reasonable way to do it... and it prooved to be effective

airworks-fc3s

quite stock location, there is a HKS cone filter attached to it and i made a hole donwards to the headlamp-motor to have cold air for the filter...
yeah i will definately try to improve my intake, now i'm very busy with breakin' in the enigne

GUYS: I JUST BOUGHT A USED RE-AMEMIYA ECU!!!!!

so all of you always bothering me can be happy! it it has refined fuel maps, better ignition timing, raised boost cut point and raised redline. i can't wait to get it!!

antnicuk

I appreciate you have already bought the ECU, but for your info, I run a series 4 block with FD UIM using an Apexi Power FC ECU with great sucess. 380 RWHP It was very simple wiring mods to the FC loom to make it work and its fully mappable.

Worth considering for the future if you need something that is tunable

airworks-fc3s

sounds good! we'll see how the re-amem. works!


guys i've already done about 700km on the engine and it is feelin' nice!! yesterday i did some fine tuning with the afr gauge and the apexi. idle was way too rich (800cc primaries) the rest of part throttle is quite ok (maybe due to porting). i did some short wot runs up to 4.5k (don't worry i payed a lot of attention ). it's runnin' superrich up to 4k, i had to tune it down. the stage II is boostin' to 5psi at the moment, but that's ok since the engine is still in break in.

the BNR stageII is great (as far as up to 4.5) it is really responsive and builds up efficient boost as early as 2700rpm, this with a street port!!

i'll keep you up to date with more info...

airworks-fc3s

here some news:

i've plugged in the chipped ECU and it started and ran just fine! So N374 ECU's do basically work on FC's with N380 ECU's

The car runs richer across the whole rpm band (probably due to the new chip prolonging injectors duty cycles), i had to correct it alot with the SAFC. Now i had the problem that i couldn't (within a reasonable frame) correct the fueling downwards, becaus i don't want to alter the rest of the parameters to that extent. Additionally, the car ran on the richer side anyways (before the new ECU). So i decided to swap the 800cc secondaries with the stock 550cc's. My thoughts were, that the swapping the 800cc primaries would have had a much greater impact on the whole fuel delivery so i decided to start with the sec's. After that the car runs still quite rich (still have to correct it alot). But i think this is mainly due to the relatively low 11psi i'm boostin'.

The redline is also set to about 9200rpm. I know, i know... it's dangerous and blablabla... But i'm not redlining it the whole day long, just sometimes in first or second gear ... and to feel comfortable, i have an FD short-block, so higher oil pressure, three window bearing, hardened stat' gears and a alu-flywheel! I think that should be enough to savely rev up to 9k sometimes... and if i do it, it feels really as if the engine wants me to do it... it rev so soft, absolutely NO vibrations

and you no what: the car accelerates like a rocket up to the 9k with no hesitation so it really IS fast for it's "low boost" ... i think that's thanks to the porting?! it's like if you have an RX-8's 9k redline combined with the torque and hp of a TII...

i have to make a movie soon... be patient

adrock3217

Videeeooo?

Brody8877

iTrader: (10)

Looking nice dude! this is giving back my inspiration to work on my TII again.