13b-rew motor in 2nd gen
#1
13b-rew motor in 2nd gen
Does anybody have any experience putting a 3rd gen motor in a 2nd gen?? I tried searching but couldn't come up with anything. Seams like somebody said a while back that it is quite a task, but i figure i would ask anyways. Anybody have a link to a teck article about this??? Thanks...
#2
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I had one, but I'm in the process of securing my website back - screw Yahoo website hosting!
You'll need to construct a crossmember and mount positions to mount the stock FD engine mounts.  The downside is the stock 13B-REW engine mounts are bank if you need to replace them.
The other option is to redrill the center housing and use the FC oil pan and use both FC engine mounts on the 13B-REW engine.  The one big prolblem is that the FC oil pan is slightly longer than the 13B-REW and you need to seal the front edge to the front oil cover.  There are members who have gone this route still in here?
To me, there is no real reason to do this unless you want to show off the car.  The original 13BT is good for 500bhp and is more than enough for most people.  If you're going to go through all this trouble to stuff another engine into the chassis, you might as well go 20B...
-Ted
You'll need to construct a crossmember and mount positions to mount the stock FD engine mounts.  The downside is the stock 13B-REW engine mounts are bank if you need to replace them.
The other option is to redrill the center housing and use the FC oil pan and use both FC engine mounts on the 13B-REW engine.  The one big prolblem is that the FC oil pan is slightly longer than the 13B-REW and you need to seal the front edge to the front oil cover.  There are members who have gone this route still in here?
To me, there is no real reason to do this unless you want to show off the car.  The original 13BT is good for 500bhp and is more than enough for most people.  If you're going to go through all this trouble to stuff another engine into the chassis, you might as well go 20B...
-Ted
#3
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There is a garage down here in naples that does 13b rew conversions all of the time. They do have to drill stuff to remount things, and they do modify the oil pickup, but it is much cheaper than doing a 20b. If you bring them a second gen, they will do everything, including a single turbo and entire turbo 2 drivetrain for about $7k, all ready to go.
#4
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Originally posted by RoninAutoBoX
There is a garage down here in naples that does 13b rew conversions all of the time. They do have to drill stuff to remount things, and they do modify the oil pickup, but it is much cheaper than doing a 20b. If you bring them a second gen, they will do everything, including a single turbo and entire turbo 2 drivetrain for about $7k, all ready to go.
There is a garage down here in naples that does 13b rew conversions all of the time. They do have to drill stuff to remount things, and they do modify the oil pickup, but it is much cheaper than doing a 20b. If you bring them a second gen, they will do everything, including a single turbo and entire turbo 2 drivetrain for about $7k, all ready to go.
Still, much less than a 20B, and I guess it could bring you more bragging rights.
#5
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Originally posted by RETed
I had one, but I'm in the process of securing my website back - screw Yahoo website hosting!
You'll need to construct a crossmember and mount positions to mount the stock FD engine mounts.  The downside is the stock 13B-REW engine mounts are bank if you need to replace them.
The other option is to redrill the center housing and use the FC oil pan and use both FC engine mounts on the 13B-REW engine.  The one big prolblem is that the FC oil pan is slightly longer than the 13B-REW and you need to seal the front edge to the front oil cover.  There are members who have gone this route still in here?
To me, there is no real reason to do this unless you want to show off the car.  The original 13BT is good for 500bhp and is more than enough for most people.  If you're going to go through all this trouble to stuff another engine into the chassis, you might as well go 20B...
-Ted
I had one, but I'm in the process of securing my website back - screw Yahoo website hosting!
You'll need to construct a crossmember and mount positions to mount the stock FD engine mounts.  The downside is the stock 13B-REW engine mounts are bank if you need to replace them.
The other option is to redrill the center housing and use the FC oil pan and use both FC engine mounts on the 13B-REW engine.  The one big prolblem is that the FC oil pan is slightly longer than the 13B-REW and you need to seal the front edge to the front oil cover.  There are members who have gone this route still in here?
To me, there is no real reason to do this unless you want to show off the car.  The original 13BT is good for 500bhp and is more than enough for most people.  If you're going to go through all this trouble to stuff another engine into the chassis, you might as well go 20B...
-Ted
mike
#6
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Originally posted by j9fd3s
especially when you can just put an fd upper on it and call it done
especially when you can just put an fd upper on it and call it done
I don't see what the big fuss is about running a 13B-REW.  If I were going to waste time on a swap, I'd go 20B.
The 13B-REW does have a little better intake port design and stronger pieces, but not many people can hit 500hp on such motors anyways.
Most of these questions are pipe dreams...
-Ted
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Originally posted by RETed
doh, that's cheating - on top of that, it's not an easy swap to retrofit the FD manifold on the FC engine.
I don't see what the big fuss is about running a 13B-REW.  If I were going to waste time on a swap, I'd go 20B.
The 13B-REW does have a little better intake port design and stronger pieces, but not many people can hit 500hp on such motors anyways.
Most of these questions are pipe dreams...
-Ted
doh, that's cheating - on top of that, it's not an easy swap to retrofit the FD manifold on the FC engine.
I don't see what the big fuss is about running a 13B-REW.  If I were going to waste time on a swap, I'd go 20B.
The 13B-REW does have a little better intake port design and stronger pieces, but not many people can hit 500hp on such motors anyways.
Most of these questions are pipe dreams...
-Ted
mike
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#9
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Originally posted by poor_red_neck
Wow, now Im taking a guess that is if you bring the 2nd gen AND the engine right?
Still, much less than a 20B, and I guess it could bring you more bragging rights.
Wow, now Im taking a guess that is if you bring the 2nd gen AND the engine right?
Still, much less than a 20B, and I guess it could bring you more bragging rights.
#10
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Yeah, you need to take care of the problem with the stock 13B-REW flywheel, as the stock pull-type clutch on the FD is a royal PITA to mate with the stock FC push-type.  If you can find a Kouki FC stock flywheel, that'll work, or else go FD/Kouki FC counterweight with aftermarket lightened flywheel.
#11
So what your basically saying is it can be done, but its not worth the money unless your gonna go for like 500+ hp. That pretty much answers my question. Still, does anybody have a tech article on this swap? I'm just interested to see something about it. Thanks for the info guys...
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thought this was a good thread for this pic
it took me 12 days to do the swap
swapped out to the FD gauges
and pedals
my 1986 FC was an automatic to start with
i also have never worked on rx7's before
and i have only owned this car for one month
love the cars and the motors are really straight forward
much love to mazda
it took me 12 days to do the swap
swapped out to the FD gauges
and pedals
my 1986 FC was an automatic to start with
i also have never worked on rx7's before
and i have only owned this car for one month
love the cars and the motors are really straight forward
much love to mazda
Last edited by -FD-in-FC-; 09-22-03 at 06:20 PM.
#13
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-FD-in-FC- You say it took you around 12 days to complete the swap, but how much did it cost you. I know of a place where i can get a 3rd gen engine/engines for cheap... but how much on top of that would i need. and was the swap difficult. also, what about trans, are you useing a 3rd gen trans? or i imagin a 2nd gen trans would bolt up? questions, questions....
-Markus
"THanks... would be nice to have a REW in an Fc..."
-Markus
"THanks... would be nice to have a REW in an Fc..."
#14
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Originally posted by -FD-in-FC-
thought this was a good thread for this pic
it took me 12 days to do the swap
swapped out to the FD gauges
and pedals
my 1986 FC was an automatic to start with
i also have never worked on rx7's before
and i have only owned this car for one month
love the cars and the motors are really straight forward
much love to mazda
thought this was a good thread for this pic
it took me 12 days to do the swap
swapped out to the FD gauges
and pedals
my 1986 FC was an automatic to start with
i also have never worked on rx7's before
and i have only owned this car for one month
love the cars and the motors are really straight forward
much love to mazda
#16
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Well i know there is going to be some interest around this
i don't have but a couple of pics of the install in progress
but i am going to put some stuff together
yes this is the same car that was posted on zilvia
and i am with Full Speed Performance in Santa Cruz
the pics will be posted on Full Speeds web site soon
i just don't have a lot of time
I took the car to button willow last friday
and it performed really well
everything was super tight
so the swap was a success!!
i will be posting soon
NIC
i don't have but a couple of pics of the install in progress
but i am going to put some stuff together
yes this is the same car that was posted on zilvia
and i am with Full Speed Performance in Santa Cruz
the pics will be posted on Full Speeds web site soon
i just don't have a lot of time
I took the car to button willow last friday
and it performed really well
everything was super tight
so the swap was a success!!
i will be posting soon
NIC
#17
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One more thing
I used a full JDM front clip
Full Speed works with a guy to get them over here
I can't tell you all my costs but I spent about $1000
over the cost of the clip on misc oil lines brake lines
a custom drive shaft since i used the 5sp from the clip
and other stuff wiring and what not
I got the car for $225 so this project didn't break the bank
I would never attempt this swap without a clip
i used everything
there was a ton of wiring to make this happen
lots of relocation of sensors and clips to make the headlight turn signals gauges ect.. work
personaly i didn't think it was that bad
but i have built cars from the groud up so its probably not for everyone
NIC
I used a full JDM front clip
Full Speed works with a guy to get them over here
I can't tell you all my costs but I spent about $1000
over the cost of the clip on misc oil lines brake lines
a custom drive shaft since i used the 5sp from the clip
and other stuff wiring and what not
I got the car for $225 so this project didn't break the bank
I would never attempt this swap without a clip
i used everything
there was a ton of wiring to make this happen
lots of relocation of sensors and clips to make the headlight turn signals gauges ect.. work
personaly i didn't think it was that bad
but i have built cars from the groud up so its probably not for everyone
NIC
#18
Originally posted by RoninAutoBoX
There is a garage down here in naples that does 13b rew conversions all of the time. They do have to drill stuff to remount things, and they do modify the oil pickup, but it is much cheaper than doing a 20b. If you bring them a second gen, they will do everything, including a single turbo and entire turbo 2 drivetrain for about $7k, all ready to go.
There is a garage down here in naples that does 13b rew conversions all of the time. They do have to drill stuff to remount things, and they do modify the oil pickup, but it is much cheaper than doing a 20b. If you bring them a second gen, they will do everything, including a single turbo and entire turbo 2 drivetrain for about $7k, all ready to go.
#20
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20B is about $10K DIY (without tuning)
Frontclip $2700
Intake/intercooler/radiator/exhaust $2500
Standalone $1100
Mounts $250
Turbo/Manifold/Wastegate/Bov $2500
Injectors/Fuelpump/FPR $800
Misc parts/Tune Up $150
Thats just to get it running in the car.
Now you have to get it to work with the tranny
So you'll probably want a new clutch/flywheel/counterweight $800
You'll also have to buy a modified oil pan or modify your sway bar to get the engine to sit in the bay properly.
Or...you could buy the front clip, and put everything from that into your fc with mounts and a modified oil pan
and swap in the 4speed AT, with a custom driveshaft. This has been done before, and I've thought of doing it to my daily driver since it is an AT.
Frontclip $2700
Intake/intercooler/radiator/exhaust $2500
Standalone $1100
Mounts $250
Turbo/Manifold/Wastegate/Bov $2500
Injectors/Fuelpump/FPR $800
Misc parts/Tune Up $150
Thats just to get it running in the car.
Now you have to get it to work with the tranny
So you'll probably want a new clutch/flywheel/counterweight $800
You'll also have to buy a modified oil pan or modify your sway bar to get the engine to sit in the bay properly.
Or...you could buy the front clip, and put everything from that into your fc with mounts and a modified oil pan
and swap in the 4speed AT, with a custom driveshaft. This has been done before, and I've thought of doing it to my daily driver since it is an AT.
Last edited by walken; 09-23-03 at 03:00 PM.