13B Read Engine Lift Point?? Lost?
#1
13B Read Engine Lift Point?? Lost?
I can't find the rear engine lift point... I'm retarded when it comes to this stuff though, I started pulling apart the TB to see if it was underneath that somewhere...?
The front is easy to spot, it's this right? :
(On the left side sorta, the metal loop)
but I can't see anything similar on the back end... or even any points strong enough... anyone have a picture of the rear point?
--Gary
The front is easy to spot, it's this right? :
(On the left side sorta, the metal loop)
but I can't see anything similar on the back end... or even any points strong enough... anyone have a picture of the rear point?
--Gary
#3
That does not really seem like a sound idea. ;P
Seriously any ideas? I'll take a pic of the back top of the engine and post it in a while (pulling off the exhaust and probably drain the tranny)
I'll check back in a while.
--Gary
Seriously any ideas? I'll take a pic of the back top of the engine and post it in a while (pulling off the exhaust and probably drain the tranny)
I'll check back in a while.
--Gary
#4
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,793
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From: London, Ontario, Canada
That's the front lift point. There should be a similar point on the raear of the engine. I believe top middle is where it usually is. May have been removed by some "helpful" mechanic during a clutch job though.
#6
Bob - Yep, that's where it's supposed to be. Don't dispair, though. You can always run a bolt through there ( it's a common size thread, or at least it is for this engine), and wrap the chain around that, or make your own hoist point out of metal with a grinder or drill or something, then run hte bolt through there..
#7
I was just thinking about that... I've gotta hit the hardware store for u-bolts anyway...
I'll need to pull the engine out a bit to get JUST the engine on that bolt right?
Maybe I should just pull the tranny + engine instead of dropping out the tranny and pulling the engine? I'll have to pull that bolt and see what size it is... not really up for manufacturing a lift point right now though...
Any suggestions on how I should go about pulling it now that's safe?
--Gary
I'll need to pull the engine out a bit to get JUST the engine on that bolt right?
Maybe I should just pull the tranny + engine instead of dropping out the tranny and pulling the engine? I'll have to pull that bolt and see what size it is... not really up for manufacturing a lift point right now though...
Any suggestions on how I should go about pulling it now that's safe?
--Gary
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#8
Lives on the Forum
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,576
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From: Morristown, TN (east of Knoxville)
on s5 NA's the hook is on the middle intake, you can see 2 boltholes on a flat surface on the backside. s4 NA's have the hook bolted to the block itself.
Yours has been removed. Either use a long 12mm bolt through the chain into the manifold, or find another spot to hook to. Sometimes I use the bracket on the throttlebody that the cruise control wire hooks to, its nice and thick.
Yours has been removed. Either use a long 12mm bolt through the chain into the manifold, or find another spot to hook to. Sometimes I use the bracket on the throttlebody that the cruise control wire hooks to, its nice and thick.
#9
Either use a long 12mm bolt through the chain into the manifold, or find another spot to hook to.
--Gary
#10
Originally Posted by Bob_The_Normal
So the threads for those two holes you're talking about (I didn't notice those before!) are 12mm? Just get a long (4"?) 12mm thread bolt, put it into one of those holes with a washer to keep the chain on?
--Gary
--Gary
On a side note, yeah, that should be good. If you look at how thin the front lift point is, you realize that this engine isn't that heavy, so that should be able to take the brunt of it. Also, go for a grade 5 bolt in this instance, being that this is more of a shear that you're lifting at, not a pulling like grade 8's are. In all honesty, I don't remember how metric bolts are rated, but I remember it's weird with decimal pts and stuff.
#12
Okay, quick trip to the hardware store (well I say quick but you'd think I was in some backwater town in Mississippi with how things were handled there... white people *shudder*) I've got the right bolts, 8mm thread for those holes, got Grade 5, they didn't have 8 anyway... got it all on, looks sturdy enough... now I haven't drained the tranny yet... doh... but I'll do that... get the bolts holding everything together off, pull the remaining stuff attaching anything... support the transmission... and hopefully get this bastard on the ground in an hour so I can get ready to go to work...
--Gary
--Gary
#13
well, thats a good thing. Draining the trans will make life a LOT easier with not having a trail of trans fluid following the engine on its way out from the tail shaft. Also cuts down on weight.
#14
draining the trans - BEST IDEA EVER!!!!!
man, I think I'd even drain the trans if the plugs were seized and I had to drill a hole in the bottom of it and buy another one when I was done, because they just make THAT MUCH of a mess.
man, I think I'd even drain the trans if the plugs were seized and I had to drill a hole in the bottom of it and buy another one when I was done, because they just make THAT MUCH of a mess.
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