It runs, boosts properly and not in limp mode.

Specs:

Purpose, a street legal (passes visual) 350-375 WHP FC

13b-re keg (still JDM but with really good comp) will be rebuilt to my own specs after smog ref apointment.

13b-rew manifolds/turbos/front cover/oil pan/ignition system/stock ecu (till after ref apointment then Haltech E8)

ebay downpipe with 2 CARB legal OBD 1 "performance" cats of the right type welded in

ebay intercooler

HKS intake with carb number for FD (stock airbox wouldn't come close to fitting)

walbro

black magic fan, with the fan motor transplanted from a taurus fan running of the black magic controller on the taurus fans low speed (yes the low speed cools better than the black magics only speed, high speed sounds like a 747)

It doesn't feel quite as powerfull as a stock FD, but its close.

Future to achieve performance goals

BNR stage 3 twins

downpipe with 2 cats (at least 1 hollowed out maybe both)

haltech E8

Big streetport

scaloped rotors

3mm 1PC NRS Gray seals with cermet housings

ignition amp, better coils.

water injection.

I should have just saved and bought an FD, oh yes. But the car is just a shell for the engine. I could allways switch over to the FD

 

very nice!!, how did you handle the wiring issues? sequential still?

 

you like ebay eh?hopefully you dont get scammed!! your car looks really well done though.

 

The FSM and wiring diagrams. one wire at a time.

Fully sequential, boost pattern is a little off (because of the re-rew porting differences I suspec), but I have cats so no boost spikes.

 

Yes I do like ebay, I have only been scammed once out of at least 200 transactions.

boy that sucked big time though

 

was it a *big* transaction??

 

$300 plus shipping. For a "usable" dymag carbon fiber wheel. That was severly cracked.

I am still up by allot. About 6 months ago I came across an electic car at the junk yard (converted VW rabit). Got a bunch of parts for about 20 dollars. The electric motor speed controll sold for about $900. Accuratley advertised as an untested unk cond electrical part.

 

Damn, talk about junkyard gold.

 

I was under the imprecation the twins would hit the strut tower. How is the fitment?

 

Update: As of today my car is street legal in Cali, passed the smog reff inspection....

Now I can finaly re-install my haltech, larger injectors and turn up the boost...

 

Good luck with the Haltech and the twins. I don't think there is enough outputs there to run them sequentially.... they are still sequentially right? You beat me to it and for that I hate you.... although our projects are still a little different. I'm using the entire 13B-RE with the FD twins and a Motec M800 for control. Not worried about emmusions though so I should be @ 400 FWHP to start

Incedentally, you are 100% right about the different ports affecting the twins boost pattern. The reason I went with the Motec was so that I could adjust and map each of the 5 outputs needed for the 6 different solenoids.

One question for ya though..... which exhaust sleeves are in the Keg?

-B

 

I like what you did there!

 

Thanks for the compliments...

Ive been doing more research the E8 has a surplus of outputs controlling the stock twins. To controll the twins like stock only requires 5 outputs, 3 of RPM/boost on off switches 2 as Variable duty cycle PWM's (including the wastegate and pre control). It can really be done with 4 and an extra check valve just as well. The E8 has seven open outputs in waste spark mode 2 can be linked to 3D duty cycle maps, and it does closed loop boost. The is no gain in doing the CCV as a PWM, it should open as fast as possible.

My keg is stock un rebuilt, has over 100 PSI compression.

It will be rebuilt, perhaps next year, then it will get the REW sleeves.

 

damn those wires looks like a mess
have fun

 

Ah, I see, we are taking two different approaches to controlling them. I'll also be using 4 pressure inputs for data and decision making not just RPM. My goal is the make the transition seamless. We also wanted the option of have the CCV & CRV on a PWM to help with the transition. Just different approaches. Keep us informed though, I want to be heading to the engine dyno in August.

I tested the Cosmo I bought, I was shocked to see 107F & 119R. Most interesting was the thing already had the TII/FD sleeves!

 

That engine is a really good find. I have had 2 13b-re's that have been over 100 PSI compression. I blew one up due to ignition noise (my fault), the seals that where still intact barley had any wear on them.

the CRV can't be controlled via a PWM it is an on off valve like any BOV there is no in between.

Any variability in the CCV is going to create a tuning nightmare where the change over happens with differeing throttle conditions. The stock system uses pressure to controll the CCV also, but its mechanical. The CCV won't open unless it sees equal pressure on both sides of the valve. The RPM switch is just to make sure it won't happen below a certain RPM.

 

Right or wrong I'm viewing the CRV as a BIG solenoid. Instead of regulating the pressure before and after a 3.5mm hose, it's doing it on a turbo. We'll see though, we're going to try a bunch of different things. One thought is to wait until we see the secondary creating boost, then close the CRV and PWM the CCV. My setup is going to have way more inputs than the factory so we can map them against each other. For example, the PSV will be based on MAP vs Exhaust mani pressure. I'm doing it a different way than the factory, if it doesn't work, we'll fall back to their method but I think it can be improved upon and that's what I'm trying to do.