Just for those interested, we are developing 13B-RE and 20B engine mounts to fit those engines into the FC chassis. I figured that since K2RD is the only kid on the block, maybe they would like some competition We plan to offer ours at about $250. I will post some pics in the next week or so on our proto-types. We are installing a 13B-RE into the Project 86, which has a new owner (who I happen to be best friends with and work with ) I'll keep you guys updated and get some feedback of what you think as we go.

 

how hard is a 13B-Re swap into an FC?
is it like 20B hard? or is it just like a regular engine swap with more expensive parts?

 

www.2751engineering.com

you can check out my black car. Has a 13B-RE installed.

 

Hey dave you should make some FC 12a mounts too nobody else does.

 

I thought about it....but it would necessitate buying more than im ready to right now. What are you going to do with the TB and intake elbow Seth? Any pics of a modified eblow? I know it wont clear the hood.

Ive considered using the 13B-RE. I wasnt really ready to buy the FMIC that would be necessasary, and didnt want to mess with the twin turbos, or the engine mounts. When I get a better turbo, and FMIC in the future ill definately consider one (if I blow the engine.)

 

If I were to say bolt a single turbo onto the 13b-re, would making it fit into the FC be easier or harder?

 

The mounts we are making will allow damn near any turbo to be fit next to the block. I guess it will depend overall what manifold you use and things like that. But something like a T66 or T04 etc will fit with no problems.

 

I would definately imagine it would be easier. Thats why im waiting until I get an upgraded turbo and FMIC for my 13BT, so that very little will need to be done if I swich to a 13B-RE in the future.

 

the K2RD mounts allows you to use the stock twins. Something to consider.

 

im getting the Kurgan intake elbow. I dont have pics of it, still waiting for it. The stock elbow wont work. also using the stock 89T2 power steering system.

 

if you don't have power steering you can simply cut 10" out of the pipe and reweld the two ends back together. heres a pic of my old school setup back when it was sequential.

 

Ours were first fit to use the stock twins. We are making sure that there will be enough room for larger turbo's with large manifolds hung off the engine

Do you have the K2RD mounts Seth? How do you like them? Anything you would change?

 

Care to take some suggestions from moi?
One of the big beefs against those mounts is the use of stock rubber Mazda OEM engine mounts.&nbsp If you could design a harder engine mount (especially for the heavier 20B), that would be a plus.&nbsp Unless you can offer them with the harder Mazda Comp engine mounts?&nbsp I dunno if those would be okay with the heavier 20B engine.


-Ted

 

Ahh yes Ted, your input is especially important since you know first hand about these

That is a good point. The 20B does weight alot more than a typical 13BT for sure, so I will look into some heavier duty mounts there. I will talk to MazdaComp about their mounts and see what they say as far as the weight concerns.

What all is included with their mounts, as the site is sort of vague as far as the mounts are concerned. Do theirs come with new mounts or is it just the brackets? I can include the MazComp mounts if they think they will be ok, especially at $36 a set =)

Our driver side mounts looks pretty similar to the K2RD one, but our exhaust side is much different. We didn't care much for that design, so we changed it quite a bit. Plus you can use the Cosmo studs on ours if I'm not mistaken.

 

The mounts worked perfect for me. Nice powdercoat finish. No complaints. A competition mount is a good idea.

 

what kind of power will an re engine make with stock twins and ports? with standalone EMS, enough fuel and Big IC.?

can you run it off FC coils with a haltech?

dave if you are doing this you better write up lots of info and finish it before mid winter

 

something that was suggested by someone who saw my k2rd mounts http://www.k2rd.com/images/20Bmountds1.jpg and http://www.k2rd.com/images/20Bmountps1.jpg
was to make it a box section by putting a strap over the "top" also the k2rd mounts do not come with the actual engine mounts, and if you are going to go that far maybe it would be better to redesign the brackets to use higher torque mounts. i'm sure you've noticed the 20b's have bigger mounts than the fc's do. after all it would be silly just to copy the k2rd ones, i'm sure they would sell you the plans or something. why not make it a better design??

mike
running 20b fc

 

With the exception of the brackets, it comes with a bunch of spacers and washer - see below.


The real pain in the *** part is you cannot sit the brackets flush to the engine.&nbsp At least with the 20B, the oil pan flange juts out farther than the engine block itself - this is the reason for these washers to keep the brackets away from the oil pan flange.

Unless you design the brackets to sit above the oil pan flange (it's really tight with the bottom studs), you'll still need to space them away from the engine block itself.&nbsp The stock Cosmo engine brackets have raises bosses that do this.

The brackets were designed with OLD/USED engine mounts (rubbers).&nbsp I kinda rolled my eyes when I seen this, but my rants fell on deaf ears.&nbsp Sure, the assumption that the owners would use their old engine mounts would make for a better fit, but I didn't feel too comfortable with that idea myself.&nbsp A 13B Cosmo should be okay, but somehow I feel the heavier 20B would easily kill anything resembling stock.

I would personally pay a little more for polyurethane engine mounts, as these would take a lot more abuse.&nbsp I dunno if you have the resources to pull this off, but this would be one of my suggestions.&nbsp I don't think even the Mazda Comp 40% stuffer rubber engine mounts are adequate, but they are very economical!


-Ted

 

From an engineering point of view, this is not a good idea.&nbsp There's a reason why Mazda hasn't done that with the FC (drivers side) engine bracket either.&nbsp If you box out the bracket, you change the stress point from the side/vertical panels to localized at the top edge where the newly welded boxed piece meets the engine vertical piece (did that make sense?).&nbsp The brackets are designed to flex a little and, thus, the open top design.&nbsp Sure, boxing out the bracket will make it stronger, but you lose the flexing of the open top design that works very well with the engine torque.



-Ted

 

that was my arguement back to him, is that the k2rd mounts look like the factory drivers side mount, from a design point of view. btw have you guys seen a 20b motor mount?? they are huge, they look a lot like 929/mpv mounts, or like a double tall fd mount.

mike

 

Yeah, Paul has the engine brackets but not the rubber engine mounts.&nbsp So I've seen those metal brackets - they are all funky just to clear the starter (driver's side - U.S.-spec) and the turbo plumbing (passenger side - U.S.-spec).



-Ted

 

The main purpose of these mounts are specifically for the 13B-RE. Most people (95% or higher) would like to do the 20B over the 13B-RE, but the costs involved would lean them over toward the 13B-RE. For that reason, I didn't feel it was right that an FC owner wanting to shoehorn an RE into their car should have to pay $440 for a pair of engine mounts. For a 20B install, that is a drop in the bucket

As for the polyurethane engine mounts, where would someone go to find those? Costs involved? I am waiting to receive a reply from MazdaComp and see what they say. I think if they say they should work, then we will try them out for a bit on the Project 86 and see what happens.

Here are some sneak peeks of the mounts as they sit today. This isn't the final product, just the proto-types. As you can see in one of the pics, the engine sits perfectly level.

Comments welcome.