1300 miles - one rotor - thoughts?
#1
Haven't we ALL heard this
Thread Starter
1300 miles - one rotor - thoughts?
So, I have this 86 base model with 185,000 miles on it. The rear rotor took a major dump (two apex seals gone).
It drives fine...aside from the massive power loss. Smokes like a train above 4000rpm. Wont hold idle but if you hold it at 1500 rpm she purrs.
The car is in central VA and I want to get her to Dallas. Anybody driven this far on one rotor? I would think doing the drive at night would be a good idea considering the smoke.
My other question is...can I just disconnect the rear injectors. Would the ECU not like the lack of resistance? Could I just wire a resistor across the wires to make it happy?
I understand this is going to tear up the rear rotor, housing, and iron. But at 185k I don't expect to find anything servicable in there.
James
It drives fine...aside from the massive power loss. Smokes like a train above 4000rpm. Wont hold idle but if you hold it at 1500 rpm she purrs.
The car is in central VA and I want to get her to Dallas. Anybody driven this far on one rotor? I would think doing the drive at night would be a good idea considering the smoke.
My other question is...can I just disconnect the rear injectors. Would the ECU not like the lack of resistance? Could I just wire a resistor across the wires to make it happy?
I understand this is going to tear up the rear rotor, housing, and iron. But at 185k I don't expect to find anything servicable in there.
James
#5
backslash beanbagrace
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I have done it.
All of the damage to the engine is done right when the engine blows. I put about 1100mi on my last engine after it blew. That includes a 450mi road trip. No problems. When I opened the engine up, there was no more damage than a normal blown engine.
I got it up to 107mph on 1 rotor.
All of the damage to the engine is done right when the engine blows. I put about 1100mi on my last engine after it blew. That includes a 450mi road trip. No problems. When I opened the engine up, there was no more damage than a normal blown engine.
I got it up to 107mph on 1 rotor.
Last edited by White87FC; 12-28-05 at 11:41 PM.
#7
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you can get a rotary to idle perfect at 1200 rpm on one rotor. I had to do it when mine blew. I only drove 1 hour to my house but it seemed to take for ever.
Adjust the timing, idle screw and the thermowax (cold start). OR adjust the secondary plates. It will idle nice and smooth at 1200rpm. I would suggest disconnecting the primary and secondary injectors. That way you dont flood your oil.
Adjust the timing, idle screw and the thermowax (cold start). OR adjust the secondary plates. It will idle nice and smooth at 1200rpm. I would suggest disconnecting the primary and secondary injectors. That way you dont flood your oil.
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#8
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i just have to say this thread is awesome
my friend had a t2 with a blown motor... we drove around for.... i think around a month with it...
it was very hard to start though... we always kept it running when we got gas ahhhhh i loved getting weird looks when filling up with the car on
good luck with the roadtrip
-Dan.
my friend had a t2 with a blown motor... we drove around for.... i think around a month with it...
it was very hard to start though... we always kept it running when we got gas ahhhhh i loved getting weird looks when filling up with the car on
good luck with the roadtrip
-Dan.
#9
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Don't snip wires, unplug them from the injectors if you don't mind digging into it. I'll give the second "opinion," the computer doesn't give a damn if injectors are unplugged.
Driving on one rotor is fine, as long as you trust it to hold up to the trip. If it takes a dump, you're screwed. I personally would not go over a hundred miles on a single rotor, and that's in an emergency (i.e., I blew one rotor on the way home)
Driving on one rotor is fine, as long as you trust it to hold up to the trip. If it takes a dump, you're screwed. I personally would not go over a hundred miles on a single rotor, and that's in an emergency (i.e., I blew one rotor on the way home)
#13
Rotary Freak
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Originally Posted by White87FC
I have done it.
All of the damage to the engine is done right when the engine blows. I put about 1100mi on my last engine after it blew. That includes a 450mi road trip. No problems. When I opened the engine up, there was no more damage than a normal blown engine.
I got it up to 107mph on 1 rotor.
All of the damage to the engine is done right when the engine blows. I put about 1100mi on my last engine after it blew. That includes a 450mi road trip. No problems. When I opened the engine up, there was no more damage than a normal blown engine.
I got it up to 107mph on 1 rotor.
#14
Haven't we ALL heard this
Thread Starter
I wanna snip it at the ECU because I don't want to take the UIM off....its never been off and I don't want to mess with perfection...
I sort of have a back up plan if it takes a major dump. I have AAA plus (100 mile tow). I figure if it dumps on an insterstate AAA can take me to the nearest airport with airline service. I can fly for free on most airlines. So, I will just fly out and come back and fetch the car sometime with a truck.
How do you get a dead car on a tow dolly?
James
I sort of have a back up plan if it takes a major dump. I have AAA plus (100 mile tow). I figure if it dumps on an insterstate AAA can take me to the nearest airport with airline service. I can fly for free on most airlines. So, I will just fly out and come back and fetch the car sometime with a truck.
How do you get a dead car on a tow dolly?
James
#15
CURVE OF CONSTANT WIDTH
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Originally Posted by Wankel7
I wanna snip it at the ECU because I don't want to take the UIM off....its never been off and I don't want to mess with perfection...
I sort of have a back up plan if it takes a major dump. I have AAA plus (100 mile tow). I figure if it dumps on an insterstate AAA can take me to the nearest airport with airline service. I can fly for free on most airlines. So, I will just fly out and come back and fetch the car sometime with a truck.
How do you get a dead car on a tow dolly?
James
I sort of have a back up plan if it takes a major dump. I have AAA plus (100 mile tow). I figure if it dumps on an insterstate AAA can take me to the nearest airport with airline service. I can fly for free on most airlines. So, I will just fly out and come back and fetch the car sometime with a truck.
How do you get a dead car on a tow dolly?
James
#16
Rotary Freak
I drove with the windows up (for less drag) and the heater on (to help keep the one good rotor happy), I would also get the phone numbers of some towing companies along the route - just in case.
#19
Haven't we ALL heard this
Thread Starter
Woot, good advice man! Thanks
Still not sure on doing this... I want to do a compression check on the front rotor first.
i figure if this thing will make it all the way to dallas it would save allot of hassle on towing it from VA.
James
Still not sure on doing this... I want to do a compression check on the front rotor first.
i figure if this thing will make it all the way to dallas it would save allot of hassle on towing it from VA.
James
#21
it will be cheaper to tow it.
I've driven cars on 1 rotor, I drove my 10ae about 300km on one rotor once.
there is no real danger of i not working anymore, it should work just fine. I wouldn't bother with the ecu issue, it doesn't work anyways for reasons I won't get into here because I'm not totally sure myself - but I've disconnected the injectors at the injector and it was still horrible and spat fire every time I shifted.
Anways - it'll still only get 9-10mpg TOPS on the highway. It should work fine otherwise - if it has cats though they might start to melt and will be ruined by the end of the trip - even if you just run a car on 1 rotor with no load for 3-4 minutes look under the car and they'll be glowing white hot.
it really depends on how badly its blown though - my current motor in my 10ae is "blown" = makes funny noises, has 0 compression on the rear rotor and only 30psi on front - but it'll still go 150mph I'd bet. There's no power loss at all - just a funky exhaust note and strange whirring noise.
I'd probably cruise in 4th if I was you and I made the trip - and make sure it starts easily.
I've driven cars on 1 rotor, I drove my 10ae about 300km on one rotor once.
there is no real danger of i not working anymore, it should work just fine. I wouldn't bother with the ecu issue, it doesn't work anyways for reasons I won't get into here because I'm not totally sure myself - but I've disconnected the injectors at the injector and it was still horrible and spat fire every time I shifted.
Anways - it'll still only get 9-10mpg TOPS on the highway. It should work fine otherwise - if it has cats though they might start to melt and will be ruined by the end of the trip - even if you just run a car on 1 rotor with no load for 3-4 minutes look under the car and they'll be glowing white hot.
it really depends on how badly its blown though - my current motor in my 10ae is "blown" = makes funny noises, has 0 compression on the rear rotor and only 30psi on front - but it'll still go 150mph I'd bet. There's no power loss at all - just a funky exhaust note and strange whirring noise.
I'd probably cruise in 4th if I was you and I made the trip - and make sure it starts easily.
#23
Wheel Revolutionist!
Originally Posted by Wankel7
Woot, good advice man! Thanks
Still not sure on doing this... I want to do a compression check on the front rotor first.
i figure if this thing will make it all the way to dallas it would save allot of hassle on towing it from VA.
James
Still not sure on doing this... I want to do a compression check on the front rotor first.
i figure if this thing will make it all the way to dallas it would save allot of hassle on towing it from VA.
James
You will get twice the gas milage!
#24
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Originally Posted by Eriks85Rx7
'
You will get twice the gas milage!
You will get twice the gas milage!
That said, looks like you have a plan! It won't exactly be the fastest trip ever, or the most fun, but I'll bet she gets you there.
Last edited by WonkoTheSane; 12-29-05 at 02:15 PM.