I'm trying to set out a budget with an e6k, T04, injectors (4x720's?), 255lph walbro pump, frp (recommendations?), fmi (recommendations?), and various other goodies (resommendations on a wastegate PLEASE!!!). I plan on getting the t04 and fmi first. The only fuel mods I will begin with are the fcd, pump, and fpr. Would I be okay running 10psi before I grab ahold of the e6k? Also, is the e6k actually necessary to deliver the fuel? Would I be risking too much running higher boost without the haltech in there?

 

You can go highe than that, all you need todo is buy the "Fuel Cut-off" switch. this will allow your car to go higher than 8.9 psi. The switch fools the computer into believing that it is running at a lower boost range. The factory computer is designed to cut-off fuel to secondary injectors at 8.9 psi. Just make sure that you install some bigger injectors and possibly a fuel pump.

 

i would go in this order:
haltech
fmic
injectors
pump
turbo

you can run 10psi on the stock ecu, but you are gonna need at least a pump, and maybe injectors.

mike

 

Would a fmi setup on a stock turbo have to be custom, or does someone make a kit for it? Also, how much hp is my stock turbo good for?

 

the stock turbo is good for about 250-300 flywheel hp i think. i think the greddy fmic can go to the stock turbo with slight fabrication.

isnt the fuel cut at 8.6 psi, well doesnt matter where its at, just get rid of it like angel guard says. a fuel pump would do the trick, then get injectors.

 

Well, if you are getting a Haltech you dont need to worry about the factory computer ****, becuase you will replace it all.
4x720cc + walbro 255 in tank pump should be fine for 10psi on a t04. Depending on the turbos trim you should be able to just under 300rwhp with that setup. I don't think you can make much more without bigger injectors.

The first set would be to get a haltech, then pump and injectors...
Don't go too big on the FMIC with the stock turbo. The lag is going to be pretty bad, as will the PSI drop. The stock turbo is only good to about 12psi at the compressor no matter how much fuel you have. After 12psi its just going to super heat the air... at 15-18psi the turbo will blow its oil seals and be dead. With a FMIC you'll probably only see about 10psi at the manifold...

 

That's why we got the fastest rotary engines in Puerto Rico. You guys spend way too much money in fancy worthless **** for street cars. We only use haltech for racing (Drag applications) and a few street cars with OVER 550 rwhp. Our mechanic removed all the injectors and the manifolds. He installe a Marine holley carb/Jay-Tec intake, home made custom exhaust manifold, he is running at about 18-20 psi and his car makes 11.27 Turbo/Carbureted (No haltech) and it does pass emission test, so remember there are plenty of things to do before spending thousands of dollars in one single thing. Use your money wisely spend thousands on more than one thing. I do not recommend the holley conversion (our mechanic is an expert). But he's got my 87-6 port formerly N/A now converted to turbo running just fine. Just did a little exhaust porting got 84 gsl-se secondary injectors, OEM CPU(Not TII CPU) I am running at 8 PSI on an automatic tranny and there is no Mustang or acura that can catch me. So please spend your money wisely, can you imagine you having spent thousands in cpu and pump and injectors just to have a bolt on conversion with some logic to it beat you?...

 

it all depends on how truely drivable/streetable you want the set up to be, all find an dandy running a monster carb on a suckthru or blow thru set up but it could be next to useless on the street only in the correct mixtures from 5000rpm+.

there was a great debate a few months back about what is required from an efi system it it only runs on the strip, the conclusion was a three phase system, something for idle - doesn't need to idle all to well as long as it can hold a somewhat steady lowish rpm 'range'. launching rpm - as long as it can hold a steady rpm for launching and then WOT - which is what i'll see pretty much all the way down the strip.

drag racing is BY NO MEANS a good indication of how applicable the set up will be when it comes to circut racing of driving along the road

 

Monter Carb? 5000RPM? You are way off, where did you get this WRONG info.? The car is driven on a daily basis, it idles at 1000 RPMs perfectly. You are way off.... It made 333.319 RWHP at the Dyno and still passed emmissions test. He knows rotaries...

 

For those that missed a few important words in my post i'll make them in bold


There is not many blow thru or suck thru carb set up's on rotary's which are truely streetable.

If you want to play around with millions of different jetting set ups in the carbie then good for you, you are most welcome to. I along with most people will retain the fuel injection system are run a aftermarket efi system.

Which came first the carb of the efi system? as time goes on, technology increases, hence we have EFI................................weather or not ya choose to take advantage of it or not is ENTIRELY YOUR DECISION

 

Thanks Dyre, looks you're stickin on topic. Hope others catch on! Anyway, would I be running a good setup with the haltech, injectors, and pump without a front mount? Would no front mount be okay @ 12psi fom the stock turbo?

 

"It depends..."&nbsp I know I'm going to catch a lot of heat for this, but this is my experience...&nbsp The stock IC is really only good up to 10psi.&nbps If you're going to boost over 10psi, keep the on-boost times under 10 seconds; anything after that will start to overtax the heat exchange capabilities of the stock IC.&nbsp With that said, I've run my stock IC up to 14psi.&nbsp This is enough for drag racing, and running anything past 15 seconds of boost (freeway blast) will skyrocket my EGT's (GReddy EGT gauge).&nbsp 10-15 seconds of boost will get you into triple digit MPH in a HURRY!



-Ted

 

I fully agree with ted on that one, it is interesting to see how the temps sore sky high when you have a haltech e6k with realtime readings on the seat next to you, cruise along the road, pull over and stop, now take a note of your intake air temp - mine was 27degrees celcius, now only running 7-8psi and only going to 6000rpm i took off thru 1st, into 2nd, into 3rd then hooked 4th and backed off, in the time it too to get there - not long at all my intake air temps had hit 60 degrees and this was only one run, i'd hate to see the intake air temps after giving it a thrashing for a couple of minutes of on boost action, the temps would be well over 100 degrees celcius probably hitting 100 degrees in under 60 second. and thats at only 7-8psi

 

how me air temp sensors do you have?
just intake (after intercooler) or any ambient, aft turbo/pre stuff

 

yo HWO! Are you still running with the stock intercooler setup?