10 second 2g with 10k?
07-12-03, 04:38 PM
#26
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Originally posted by cbrock
Hell, if you're gonna keep one somewhat modded for street driving, I would suggest an old cutlass (regal, monte carlo) or malibu for your 10 sec timeslip. You can pick one of those up (late 70's early 80's) for next to nothing. I'd build up a small block and have at it. You'll have a fraction of what you'd have in an RX and it'd be just as fast. I'm playing around with my old caprice to see how fast it'll go for under $1500.00 or so.
I got a TH350 tranny rebuild with all the good stuff and a 2500rpm stall torque converter for $300.00
posi 3.42 rear end for $200
Set of old 882 76cc heads that were rebuilt 14k miles ago. Had 2.02 1.60 valves put in it. Free
chevy motor, needs rings. Has performer RPM manifold, holley 650..etc $500.00
Summit racing rebuild kit 10.5:1 compression $280.00
Paint $200.00
Grand total= ~1500.00
Heavy car, but it should probably run pretty good. Build up that motor with a few more grand and you'll have some power. You can get a blower for a chevy for $1600.00..the sky's the limit. Cuz I got just the above $1500.00 in my microtech and the fittings and hoses for my fuel system. Fast RX7's are $$$$$$$$$$$
I love my 7, but man, nothing sounds cooler than a big power small block...drooooool.
Hell, if you're gonna keep one somewhat modded for street driving, I would suggest an old cutlass (regal, monte carlo) or malibu for your 10 sec timeslip. You can pick one of those up (late 70's early 80's) for next to nothing. I'd build up a small block and have at it. You'll have a fraction of what you'd have in an RX and it'd be just as fast. I'm playing around with my old caprice to see how fast it'll go for under $1500.00 or so.
I got a TH350 tranny rebuild with all the good stuff and a 2500rpm stall torque converter for $300.00
posi 3.42 rear end for $200
Set of old 882 76cc heads that were rebuilt 14k miles ago. Had 2.02 1.60 valves put in it. Free
chevy motor, needs rings. Has performer RPM manifold, holley 650..etc $500.00
Summit racing rebuild kit 10.5:1 compression $280.00
Paint $200.00
Grand total= ~1500.00
Heavy car, but it should probably run pretty good. Build up that motor with a few more grand and you'll have some power. You can get a blower for a chevy for $1600.00..the sky's the limit. Cuz I got just the above $1500.00 in my microtech and the fittings and hoses for my fuel system. Fast RX7's are $$$$$$$$$$$
I love my 7, but man, nothing sounds cooler than a big power small block...drooooool.
07-12-03, 04:51 PM
#27
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if i had $8500, i would definetely get a GM remanufactured 350 ($1200), then get the conversion kit ($400), then i would get a stroker kit to make it out to 383 stroker motor with a 373 posi rear end and a 700R4 tranny, slicks, full catback exhaust and intake and that would definetely get you very close if not into the 10's
07-12-03, 05:11 PM
#29
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go lookup Soul Assassins setup somewhere. he was running 10's and maybe even high 9's like that with his FC. its the "feateured" car in the pic on the upper right side of the forum pages. course....he spent way more than 8.5k on his car...more like 20k
07-12-03, 05:50 PM
#30
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bringing in short blocks? lets kick that aside. i am in no way vouching for anything below the 11 second mark, but with 10K, you could probably find a car for less than your quoted $1500 approximation. look up 87GTR. he has i believe about $7500 is his project. he has a different turbo setup and such now. he was running a T04E with a Haltech, not sure what turbo he has now. its humoungous, though. he ran an 11.7 with that setup and i believe it was done on Hoosiers mounted on stock n/a wheels.
when it comes to rotaries, get a badass porting job and a nice turbo setup with a good standalone. then see how long your drivetrain lasts (mainly the rearend).
when it comes to rotaries, get a badass porting job and a nice turbo setup with a good standalone. then see how long your drivetrain lasts (mainly the rearend).
07-12-03, 06:45 PM
#31
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Originally posted by 2a+RoN
Fingers, I'm going to have about 7000 total into my car, but that's including painting and fixing up the body. Once my motor is back in, I'm gonna be looking for well into the 12's...
Fingers, I'm going to have about 7000 total into my car, but that's including painting and fixing up the body. Once my motor is back in, I'm gonna be looking for well into the 12's...
post your mods please.
07-12-03, 07:00 PM
#32
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Originally posted by SonicRaT
Now I know why they invented guns...
Anyway. You couldn't be more wrong if you tried. I bet you $100 I could get a tII to the 12's with a lot less than 8500. Hell, I could do it for under $5k
Now I know why they invented guns...
Anyway. You couldn't be more wrong if you tried. I bet you $100 I could get a tII to the 12's with a lot less than 8500. Hell, I could do it for under $5k
Unless you drop in a V8, $8500 is going to get you nowhere. Especially considering he's not starting off with a freshly rebuilt engine, and there is going to have to be maintenance done on the car before he even gets started. Here's a shopping list that I've compiled:
1. Full 3" turbo back exhaust -- $1000
2. FMIC, Piping -- $1000
3. Haltech E6K -- $1000
4. Custom TID -- $100
5. Checkpoint intake $250
6. MBC -- $100 for a decent one
***OPTIONAL*** rebuild the engine you just blew $2000-3000
7. Injectors - 2x720cc, 2x900cc -- $300
8. Bigass turbo -- $1000
9. Walbro FP -- $100
10. Good set of racing tires, because there's no way in hell you're going to do 12's with the stockers -- $600
11. Fluidyne rad -- $400
12. Flexalite -- $200
13. Puck clutch -- $500
14. Boost, EGT, A/F, Water temp gauges -- $400
***OPTIONAL*** rebuild the engine you just blew $2000-3000
15. Wet nitrous setup -- $1000
16. Earls fuel system -- $500
There you have $8500, excluding shipping, excluding engine rebuilds, excluding labour.
I sure as hell HOPE TO GOD that makes it into 12's for that much money.
But 12's for $5000? Enjoy your one and only run.
07-12-03, 07:25 PM
#33
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Let's see here...
1. Full 3" turbo back exhaust -- $1000
Overpriced.
2. FMIC, Piping -- $1000
Overpriced.
3. Haltech E6K -- $1000
Can go with a cheaper alternative (see megasquirt)
4. Custom TID -- $100
WAY overpriced.
5. Checkpoint intake $250
gotta be ******* kidding me.
6. MBC -- $100 for a decent one
***OPTIONAL*** rebuild the engine you just blew $2000-3000
Ovepriced.
7. Injectors - 2x720cc, 2x900cc -- $300
8. Bigass turbo -- $1000
BNR Stage 3, -$400
9. Walbro FP -- $100
10. Good set of racing tires, because there's no way in hell you're going to do 12's with the stockers -- $600
Can do better than that....
11. Fluidyne rad -- $400
12. Flexalite -- $200
Give me a break....
13. Puck clutch -- $500
14. Boost, EGT, A/F, Water temp gauges -- $400
***OPTIONAL*** rebuild the engine you just blew $2000-3000
15. Wet nitrous setup -- $1000
Not needed for 12's.
16. Earls fuel system -- $500
Can do it on the stock if you wish.
There you have $8500, excluding shipping, excluding engine rebuilds, excluding labour.
I sure as hell HOPE TO GOD that makes it into 12's for that much money.
But 12's for $5000? Enjoy your one and only run.
considering you can hit 12's with 300hp, it's relatively easy ON stock ports. If you're really going to give me **** over not providing prices, i'll be glad to throw together a price list.
1. Full 3" turbo back exhaust -- $1000
Overpriced.
2. FMIC, Piping -- $1000
Overpriced.
3. Haltech E6K -- $1000
Can go with a cheaper alternative (see megasquirt)
4. Custom TID -- $100
WAY overpriced.
5. Checkpoint intake $250
gotta be ******* kidding me.
6. MBC -- $100 for a decent one
***OPTIONAL*** rebuild the engine you just blew $2000-3000
Ovepriced.
7. Injectors - 2x720cc, 2x900cc -- $300
8. Bigass turbo -- $1000
BNR Stage 3, -$400
9. Walbro FP -- $100
10. Good set of racing tires, because there's no way in hell you're going to do 12's with the stockers -- $600
Can do better than that....
11. Fluidyne rad -- $400
12. Flexalite -- $200
Give me a break....
13. Puck clutch -- $500
14. Boost, EGT, A/F, Water temp gauges -- $400
***OPTIONAL*** rebuild the engine you just blew $2000-3000
15. Wet nitrous setup -- $1000
Not needed for 12's.
16. Earls fuel system -- $500
Can do it on the stock if you wish.
There you have $8500, excluding shipping, excluding engine rebuilds, excluding labour.
I sure as hell HOPE TO GOD that makes it into 12's for that much money.
But 12's for $5000? Enjoy your one and only run.
considering you can hit 12's with 300hp, it's relatively easy ON stock ports. If you're really going to give me **** over not providing prices, i'll be glad to throw together a price list.
07-12-03, 08:08 PM
#34
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Did you guys miss what my post was? I will be in the 12s on street tires, 11s on slicks and I have spent 8K INCLUDING the car. All bolt ons.
basic mods:
FMIC, TO4b 60-1 turbonetics turbo, hks manifold and wastegate, Haltech E6K, 2x720 cc/min and 2x1600cc/min injectors, Profec B, full 3" exhaust, Howe radiator, one 1988 10th anniversary RX7.
12s are easy.
basic mods:
FMIC, TO4b 60-1 turbonetics turbo, hks manifold and wastegate, Haltech E6K, 2x720 cc/min and 2x1600cc/min injectors, Profec B, full 3" exhaust, Howe radiator, one 1988 10th anniversary RX7.
12s are easy.
07-12-03, 09:47 PM
#41
rolling TII chassis - $500
built 350 - $2500
ghetto install for above 350 - $1000
that's $4000 total.
now the fun stuff:
Quality slicks + ghetto ford 9" rear end install = $1500
up to $5500..
and if it don't run 9s or at least 10s.. you need to learn how to drive...
built 350 - $2500
ghetto install for above 350 - $1000
that's $4000 total.
now the fun stuff:
Quality slicks + ghetto ford 9" rear end install = $1500
up to $5500..
and if it don't run 9s or at least 10s.. you need to learn how to drive...
07-12-03, 10:41 PM
#43
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well lets see.... im picking a japanese car with a japanese engine... not to be a dick or anything but i know a v8 can see 10's im not doubting it anyways.... but i would like to see a motor that is under 2liters do it... preferably the motor that is currently in the car which is a 13bt
07-13-03, 01:25 AM
#44
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its almost like people are lost and found themselves in this forum. just because someone wants a car that can drag doesn't mean they want a v8 (though it was never specified). but, now that thats cleared up, back to how to make a turbo rotary run 10s. or 11s. hell, is 12s okay? you can break into the 11s, though.
07-13-03, 03:03 AM
#46
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I would like to point out that JATO bottles do NOT have an 'off' switch. That means, unless you are doing a 1/2 mile drag, this would pose a problem when you ran your 11 sec 1/4 mile time and there is still 4 seconds left of thrust in the bottle.
07-13-03, 03:06 AM
#47
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Originally posted by ponykiller
oh yeah, did I forget to mention that this is on a Jspec motor?
oh yeah, did I forget to mention that this is on a Jspec motor?
Holy Freholy Batman! Did I post that 4 times? Well, I guess it did get my point across...
But seriously, I apologize to everyone who had to read it - as it is too late for me to edit/delete the posts I guess they are gonna stick around for a while.
07-13-03, 07:26 AM
#48
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Originally posted by ponykiller
I would like to point out that JATO bottles do NOT have an 'off' switch. That means, unless you are doing a 1/2 mile drag, this would pose a problem when you ran your 11 sec 1/4 mile time and there is still 4 seconds left of thrust in the bottle.
I would like to point out that JATO bottles do NOT have an 'off' switch. That means, unless you are doing a 1/2 mile drag, this would pose a problem when you ran your 11 sec 1/4 mile time and there is still 4 seconds left of thrust in the bottle.
07-13-03, 03:24 PM
#50
Originally posted by Fingers
Then your buddy is an awesome driver. What I meant was, to keep your car reliable, tuned properly and after all is said and done, 8500 will get you into the high 12's.
I'm not talking lightweightening. I'm speaking strictly bolt-ons.
Then your buddy is an awesome driver. What I meant was, to keep your car reliable, tuned properly and after all is said and done, 8500 will get you into the high 12's.
I'm not talking lightweightening. I'm speaking strictly bolt-ons.
I ran 11.6 and 11.7 on my car if I change to a differnt turbo I dont see why I could not be in the 10's
I ran 11.9 with just bolt ons. if I would have used 2 720's and 2 1600 the 1st time. I could have turned the boost up some more. at the time of the 11.9 run I had 4 720's at 98% duty.
and 11.9 was before the car lost almost 150 pounds.
im going to be swiching to a T66 Q trim .96 and turning the boost up.
looking to make a high 10 sec pass in about a month.