id like to know.how exactly i can achieve 10k with my 13b n/a. honestly ill admit to being a noob @ rotarys. but i want to learn everything about these beauties

 

Really? You probably could have done a half hour of searching and found the answer

10k rpm involves ripping apart the motor and upgrading a few things to take the abuse. Then you have to figure out how to tweak the motor so it will actually make some power above the normal power band, otherwise you've got nothing than an interesting gimmick. Neither operation would likely be successful if you are new to Wankel engines

 

noob@rotaries?? are you suggesting that you're an experienced mechanic?
i ask because achieving high rpm is done basically in the same way, rotary or piston.

 

HAHAHAHHAHA yep rev's have nothing to do with power do they !! . Physic's 101.

Physic's 101. Power is a direct multiplier of RPM.
torque * RPM ÷ 5252 = HP

Yes you will have to modify the stock engine as its not designed for the RPM, but yes stock blocks can go to that range (though risky) the biggest issue is balance, tune and fuel.

 

That assumes torque is constant, or increasing as RPMs go up. Unfortunately in real life, torque tends to start dropping quite quickly just before the readline. You can actually end up making less HP at 10k RPM than at the top of the power band (~7k RPM assuming a NA 13b).

Physics 101 is nice to illustrate concepts, but breaks down really fast in the real world. Modern engines involve a lot more than just 2 simple variables

 

go buy a crotchrocket

 

yes he is right, stock porting the motor will fall on it's face far short of 10k RPMs.

stock internals will have issues revving that high without balancing, lightening and clearancing.

the stock cast flywheel also has a tendency to want to explode at those RPMs so you need a chromoly or aluminum lightweight flywheel.

lastly, you need a reprogrammable engine management system, the stock ECU is not setup to go that high.

 

All you need are some really deep pockets and patience and it can be done. It's not very practical though, I would rather have boost.

For the N/A, go for nitrious, it would be a whole lot cheaper and satisfying.

 

I suppose this is what scatter shields are for. I've seen vids of 'clutch explosions', but I never thought about the flywheel itself blowing to bits, now that I do that makes perfect sense. Smaller diameter clutch systems would probably help, too $$$$!

 

honestly i'd do both, but never would retain the stock heavy cast flywheel, it is the first thing that is going to literally grenade and also the heaviest and most likely to make it through the bellhousing, firewall and your skin. just about anything in there can explode when pushing over 10k RPMs with minor imbalances but i wouldn't solely rely on just a scatter shield.

 

Absolutely agreed, not to mention the scatter shield is only a safety mechanism and should be in place only as a last line of defense against exploding clutches. You get other benefits from a smaller, lighter clutch pack, plus you don't want to put all that time/money into a powerful machine only to have a clutch that's less likely to hold up to the abuse. Brakes and wheels are easy to replace, but a clutch explosion will take you out of a race completely, scatter shield or not.

 

HAHAHAHAHHA.

I had to.

 

^ ?

The physic's are not wrong. I never said he would make more HP, everyone know's torque isn't constant or linear (for rotaries). Just making it clear that rpm (at any range) is a direct multiplier to hp.

Some of you guys make it sounds like its impossible to get a 13b na to 10K (just for the hell of it, not for the max hp)

 

See the books in the below links. In order to take advantage of the higher rpms, you would want either a bridge port or peripheral port, depending on your race class. You will need to send the rotating assembly to a professional shop for balancing. You can get the lightened rotors, dry sump, hardened gears, light flywheel, low-inertia clutch pack, and other parts from Racing Beat, Mazdatrix, and Mazda Motorsports. The safety equipment will depend on your racing class. Before you start the project it would be a good idea to check with your local racers to see what they recommend.

https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...4NmVj&hl=en_US

https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0Bzy...wMzVm&hl=en_US

It's not impossible, but it is stupid waste of time and money to build a 10K rpm motor that makes the car go slower than it would with the stock motor.

 

Extensive porting and rx8 rotors, gears, and shaft would be helpful along with a light weight flywheel..

 

true that . an exploding flywheel or clutch setup is a nastyyyy sight to see . shield or not , those projectiles are certain to do some damage somewhere along the line lol

 

As demonstrated here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QSFA0ufNS_k

 

I did not see carbon apex seals yet, figured Id add it in.

Friend of mine had a 12a he ran to 9500, I pulled my legs back every time he went well past redline. Yep, he had a stock clutch.

 

Light weight rotors (shaved) will increase rpm, not sure how much tho. also improves on response

 

yea that video kinda shows it all lol luckily nobody got hurt tho

 

it goes to 11

 

let me clarify my 1st post to this. i wanted to SAFELY rev to 10k if needed but not constantly that high. P. F**King S. my car was stolen not even 3 hrs ago heres the post https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/stolen-1988-rx7-gxl-992888/

 

I had one, in '78 - '80, built but Darryl Dummond,(of Rotary Specialties in Bakersfield,CA, now Drummond engines in OR). Redline was 9500, it saw 9700 a lot. I ran it and undefeated in S.C.C.S.C.C Slalom and Solo1 for 2 years.

It had hardened stat gears, Mazda race rotors, aluminum flywheel and was balanced. It was a half bridge port.

 

Do the 2 piece e-shaft and go for 14,000rpm.

10,000rpm is so '70s for rotaries...

 

happyest day in my life. Cops actually did their job.lol found my car :d all is well in the rx7 universe!!!!