JumpyRoo

So I today got my new autoantenna to work, and I used it as a voltage tester to find out why my rear amp wasn't working. I traced the dead power back to a loose fuse in the distribution block. Now I have an installed rear amp and an installed power antenna--with a switch--in my FC. Very nice.

Question is, for the long run, what is used to lube up a power antenna?

seveninphilly

iTrader: (7)

I'm happy to hear it was a simple thing

WoooHooo

As for the antenna if you can find Graphite powder that's what I use

NZConvertible

By “autoantenna” I’m assuming you mean an aftermarket replacement for the stock aerial?
Both the stock head unit and most aftermarket head units can control a power aerial. Just use a relay, then you won’t need the switch.

JumpyRoo

No, I want the switch, because I have it hooked directly to the battery and the head unit doesn't have enough power to move the antenna. I'm prefectly happy with the setup.

I just wanted the lube. Is graphite powder hard to find?

JumpyRoo

I mean, I just like having a switch

Icemark

spray silicon is what I recommend.

Do not use WD-40 no matter what even if its the only lube you have.

Is your radio broken that it doesn't have enough power to trigger a 50 MA antenna trigger signal?

vaughnc

Ahh, mabey that's why my power antennas only last 1.5 years So if you hear it rubbing time to lube??

Icemark

every car wash you should clean and lube the antenna with a dry lubricant like spray silicon.

vaughnc

I even read the instructions before installing and they said no maintenance. THEY LIED!!!

JumpyRoo

Haha. Actually, first thing I did was to spray it with WD-40. I know, I immediately thought, "No, wait! Better ask!" and whiped it down. But what's it do?

It seems like the remote wire isn't enough for the antenna. The CD head doesn't have an actual antenna port.

NZConvertible

That's why you use a relay. What about remote amp switching, most have that. It'll do the same thing.

Icemark

Well despite my numerous posts on the evils of WD-40 you went ahead and did it any way???

Did you know that inside power antennas is a Teflon cord that hooks up to plastic or Teflon gears to drive the antenna up and down?

Why you should not use WD-40 on anything that has Teflon in or on it:

One of the parts in WD-40 is Teflon. Teflon particles tend to want to clump together with other particles of similar compound. So to keep the Teflon particles from clumping they add a solvent designed just to melt Teflon.

So by spraying WD-40 onto your antenna it runs down inside and... melts the gears and Teflon cord.

Or spraying it into your door key switch (which is attached to the rest of the door lock mechanism by... you guessed it = Teflon).

Then when the solvent evaporates away the remaining loose Teflon particles now clump all over the weakened Teflon parts. That with the other residue left (mostly petroleum based compounds) attracts dirt.

Dirt is abrasive. Just like sand paper. So every time you run that antenna up and back down you are now also tracking in dirt which besides wearing down the Teflon, tends to jam the metal parts making it harder and harder for the antenna to retract. Until that weakened Teflon cord just snaps. Then the antenna doesn't work any more.

And you have to buy a new antenna...


So use that WD-40 on the door hinges or that cupboard door in the kitchen, but never never use it on anything that has plastics in them or is exposed to the outside air (unless you don’t care about attracting dirt).

JumpyRoo

I really like the WD 40 info, thanks! No, I only used it for about three seconds. I didn't know about the teflon inside the antenna, but I did think better about that and cleaned it off (It was a small enough amount to begin with). What do you think about 3 in 1 Oil? Or should I stick with silicone? For future use, what do you reccomend for door locks?

I prefer the isolated antenna switch because it allows me to retract the antenna during rain, washing, etc without turning off my amps. (Sorta tied both your coments in together, here, NZ) I've got a seperate EQ that handles its own amp isolating so I don't have the seperate switches to tap into.