Grunswald

Hi, i was planning to remove my air pump this week but i've massive issues.

So earlier this week i installed my dual alternator pulley and double belt to get rid of the air pump.

This morning i received my block off plates (from banzai racing).

Everybody told me it was an easy mod and with basically bolt on...

I can't agree at all so i need your help.
I removed the air pump which leaves me open air lite going to the air intake on one side and on something else on the other side... i should block them but i have nothing to do it...

I took of the BAC valve. But there is a coolant line attach on it so it's just... floating around now... and what effect will it have to run without BAC ? my idle will collapse ? there are also air line connected to it that are now open...

For the rest i simply can't see how to remove the screws... there is absolutely no access... Even though i could by some kind of magic eventually remove it, there are lots of little line connected to it (such as intake pressure line) and i have no idea what to do with it.

I can't find any explanation on internet, so you are my last hope... Please, save my weekend

FirstRotaryExp

iTrader: (3)

it sounds like you are trying to remove the emissions equipment yes?

If thats the case then you will need a few feet of new vacuum line, several feet of new fuel line, an assortment of vacuum nipples and a few larger caps as well for plugging bigger holes, oh and some RTV to seal the blockoff plates.

This is a fairly straight forward procedure (if removing all of the emissions equipment.) The boost sensor needs its vac line retained (no-brainer as the line runs to its own nipple), the wastegate needs its line (comes off the compressor housing iirc), fuel pressure regulator requires a vac source, and the OMP needs a vac source. These are just off the top of my head.
If youve removed teh BACV and have the coolant lines 'dangling' either cap the lines where they come out of the block, or run a hose from one fitting to the other to loop the system.
With the rats est removed you will also need to run new fuel lines to make up for the hardlines the stock lines used to connect to.


It sounds A LOT like you did not order all the block off plates for the job you think you are doing. There should be a plate for the ACV (that the air pump connects to), the BACV (that those coolant lines run to), the egr valve (under that big rats nest of junk near the primary fuel rail), the cold start assist (little thing that connects to a very useless 'coolant' resevoir on the passenger side firewall near the charcoal canister), one optional plate for the OMP (which if you have a s5 needs to remain plugged in even if its not going to be used as it will throw an ecu code and run in limp mode). Again these are off the top of my head, their may be one or two plates more that I may be forgetting about, but the ones listed are the ones you generally would deal with when removing the emissions equipment (except the omp as its not emissions)

Grunswald

ok... that's effectively an awful lot more than what i thought... i don't understand was no one mentionned it on the national board where i've took the advice initially (it's always easier in my original language ). I Manage to mount back everything. I'm just not very confident in the intercooler piping that seems to have been really damaged in the past... i'll see if the boost pressure is still the same... anyway, i think the work to do i waaaaaaaaaaaaaay above my skills, so i think i will not do it...

FirstRotaryExp

iTrader: (3)

Honestly its not hard. Its just a matter of finding what you are keeping and running a new line to it from a specific source. Its also been documented a few times on this board.

Grunswald

i've drove a little the fc with everything back and it's pretty much fucked. at idle the boost is lower than before and in full charge the boost is also lower. i think also the oil pressure is also a little lower at idle but i'm not sure, i don't remember what the idle value before.
I think i got a leakage on the intercooler piping. when i took it of, the elbow on the entry side of the intercooler is really fucked, it looks like it's missing the end... so i'm thinking about getting a new one.

what is the lengths of the elbow ? 2" inner diameter, 90° angle, 3mm wall thickness ?

also the duct between the BAC valve and the intercooler piping got cracks at both ends.
On my car it's a rigid duct, is there any problem to have it in silicone ? i believe both ends are not the same diameter so i will need a custom one...