#@$#@#&* Broke My Diff Mount!
09-25-02, 09:14 PM
#26
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Now correct me if I am wrong...... lower gear ratios and RPM multiply torque right?
You know whats nuts..... there are torque converters that flash out to 7500+ RPM! Freek Nast
You know whats nuts..... there are torque converters that flash out to 7500+ RPM! Freek Nast
09-26-02, 10:12 AM
#28
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they are located in Jamacia NY.
their number is 718-725-0179
check their site out at www.rx7s.com
mike
their number is 718-725-0179
check their site out at www.rx7s.com
mike
11-05-02, 09:24 PM
#29
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About the pinion snubber
Okay, here's how it works...
Your front diff mount is mounted to the side of the differential housing. From there it goes up to the body of the car.
There is nothing directly above the front end of the differential. Every time you jump on the gas, the diff tries to snap upwards. The front diff mount can only take being pounded this way for so long.
So you install a pinion snubber. It's basically a cylindrical (I think) block that you insert between the top of the diff and the body of the car (it has a stud sticking out of one end.) The pinion snubber acts as a bumper, blocking the differential from snapping upwards and pounding the front diff mount.
The pinion snubber is an aftermarket part that is made to order. Either repair (weld) or replace your front diff mount and then measure the distance from the top of the front of the differential housing to the body of the car. Since you want there to be a teensy bit of play (you don't want the pinion snubber to actually touch the diff) take a couple of c**t hairs off your measurement.
Go to a performance shop and order your pinion snubber using your measurement. When you get it, use it to find and mark where you will be cutting the hole through the body for the stud. The hole will be under & between the rear seats/boxes (depending on what you're driving.)
Cut the hole, install the pinion snubber, and stop worrying about your front diff mount.
Your front diff mount is mounted to the side of the differential housing. From there it goes up to the body of the car.
There is nothing directly above the front end of the differential. Every time you jump on the gas, the diff tries to snap upwards. The front diff mount can only take being pounded this way for so long.
So you install a pinion snubber. It's basically a cylindrical (I think) block that you insert between the top of the diff and the body of the car (it has a stud sticking out of one end.) The pinion snubber acts as a bumper, blocking the differential from snapping upwards and pounding the front diff mount.
The pinion snubber is an aftermarket part that is made to order. Either repair (weld) or replace your front diff mount and then measure the distance from the top of the front of the differential housing to the body of the car. Since you want there to be a teensy bit of play (you don't want the pinion snubber to actually touch the diff) take a couple of c**t hairs off your measurement.
Go to a performance shop and order your pinion snubber using your measurement. When you get it, use it to find and mark where you will be cutting the hole through the body for the stud. The hole will be under & between the rear seats/boxes (depending on what you're driving.)
Cut the hole, install the pinion snubber, and stop worrying about your front diff mount.
Last edited by Amur_; 11-05-02 at 09:33 PM.
11-05-02, 09:31 PM
#30
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Just a note, the diff has three mounts.
1 Front and 2 Rear.
The Rear very seldomly break, its the front that breaks (amur explained WHY above)-
Once you hold a front diff mount in your hands, it becomes CLEAR why it breaks so often. Its a peice of rubber BONDED to a slab of steel..
1 Front and 2 Rear.
The Rear very seldomly break, its the front that breaks (amur explained WHY above)-
Once you hold a front diff mount in your hands, it becomes CLEAR why it breaks so often. Its a peice of rubber BONDED to a slab of steel..
11-05-02, 11:12 PM
#31
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Ok, so welding them back up is ok??
as mine is also broken and i was about top replace it.
To my knowledge mine was welded to start with, will it be ok to re-weld it?
I might see how that goes, if it happens again, il replace it.
So whats invlolved in welding it?
does the exhaust need to come off??
Its hard for me to look at, as my car is located 100kms from my house...
Any help would be great
Cheers
Ben
as mine is also broken and i was about top replace it.
To my knowledge mine was welded to start with, will it be ok to re-weld it?
I might see how that goes, if it happens again, il replace it.
So whats invlolved in welding it?
does the exhaust need to come off??
Its hard for me to look at, as my car is located 100kms from my house...
Any help would be great
Cheers
Ben
11-06-02, 05:07 AM
#32
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Don't know about welding it - start a new thread and ask...
Yes, you have to drop the exhaust.
You may not have to drop the diff. I'm told it depends on 'how' the diff is broken. You have to look.
Yes, you have to drop the exhaust.
You may not have to drop the diff. I'm told it depends on 'how' the diff is broken. You have to look.
11-06-02, 07:49 AM
#33
Shelby Tuner & FC badass
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weld that bitch together. best mod ever.. feels great.
Maybe see if you want to do a little extra welding and put another braket on it and weld that to the sub frame member. Never break again, unless the welding is crappy.
Maybe see if you want to do a little extra welding and put another braket on it and weld that to the sub frame member. Never break again, unless the welding is crappy.
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