$300 car update - Still no go
#1
Touch my Wankel
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$300 car update - Still no go
Got an 87 NA for $300. Will not idle. Will not rev past 3500, if so it stalls out. I can hold the accel slightly and it'll stay running, but can't really put load on it by driving.
Ok, i will be doing a comp test tomorrow. but for today, i went and checked my plugs, they were black with carbon. replaced them, adjusted timing, nothing seems to keep it's idle. I checked all my big vac hoses for signs of leaking, nothing obvious. I'm suspecting Fuel delivery, i'll search about the forums tomorrow and see what i can dig up.
Ok, i will be doing a comp test tomorrow. but for today, i went and checked my plugs, they were black with carbon. replaced them, adjusted timing, nothing seems to keep it's idle. I checked all my big vac hoses for signs of leaking, nothing obvious. I'm suspecting Fuel delivery, i'll search about the forums tomorrow and see what i can dig up.
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#10
Touch my Wankel
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I'll search on how to clean the grounds, i thought i read something a few days about about them. Also, i have to be very careful with the throttle. I can keep it running by holding the throttle, but if i let go, or push too hard, it dies.
Also, both the spark plugs and the injectors on the top have carbon built up on them.
Also, both the spark plugs and the injectors on the top have carbon built up on them.
#11
brap-brap-brap
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MAF maybe? my friend had a bad maf and it had problems idle'ing and reving up past a certain point. then again the 3500rpm makes secondaries suspicious.
just a guess - im no automotive guru
just a guess - im no automotive guru
#12
I live in an igloo
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Yea first thing I was thinking of was grounds. Theres a new ground article in the archives, its older but it looks like it was just archived recently, hence the top of the list. Anyways its very descriptive and has pictures, do that first before you continue on.
#13
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oh forgot, I made an LED box to check the codes, only code i got was for the O2 sensor. Doubt that'd cause this problem. I checked the OHMs of the ignition system, all were ok. My friends not cooperating with me and helping me check the compression, so i'll figure out how to use the remote starter i got to check the compression. Pump is getting proper voltage. The pump seems to be gettting proper voltage. I set my multimeter on the strut tower and can see it's getting that, but i can't actually hear the pump going, cause the car would die if i ran to see.
Is it possible that there are other codes, but it will only list one at a time?
Is it possible that there are other codes, but it will only list one at a time?
#14
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Took off old fuel filter... it's not supposed to blow out dark stuff, so replaced it. car is a little hard to start, but seems to be running much better. instead of dieing if i nail the accell, it hesitates but RPMS climb. Bought 8 feet of vac lines... so that's tomorrows project. Tightned the throttle cable adjust, it'll stay running if the rpms are around 1500. But if left running for a couple mins, it still tries to stall out. Found two ground connecters that were not connected. One is the tranny to firewall, and the other was a capasitor with an O ring, which went on the slave cyl, if i'm not mistaken.
Seems like the best method of ramping up the RPMs is just pumping the accel fast repeatedly. if it tries dieing out on me, i can pump on the gas and it'll recover.
Seems like the best method of ramping up the RPMs is just pumping the accel fast repeatedly. if it tries dieing out on me, i can pump on the gas and it'll recover.
#16
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i should check it by removing it and beating the hell out of it till it's empty. Other then that i don't know how to check it. Note, it's only got one muffler attached. the other had fallen off and it's in the trunk. while it was running i felt a little pressure from the muffler side, and about 3x as much from the non muffled side, but not sure if that's enough flow.
#18
Rotary Power
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Originally Posted by hatebobbarker
at this point i haveto ask,
how is the body?
how is the body?
i also bought an rx7 running on 1 rotor for $325, the body is in decent condition, i mean it has some rust starting on it underneat and a little bit on the body, but its not really bad , just needs to get fixed before it gets worse..
when it was running on the one rotor, would seem like everytime i let off the gas it would backfire a bunch, even at low rpms, i could get it to rev up to maybe 4k sometimes if i was lucky but it seemed like it was running to rich to even get high up in the rpms.. (constant backfiring ), all u could smell is gas from how rich it was runnning , ill soon be putting the engine from my parts car in it which is getting rebuilt at rotary resurrection and streetported , but if you have a blown rotor, chances are that 1/2 of the engine is no good and might as well get another engine to use for the rebuild, unless u want to take ur chances and use this one and pay for all the parts that are needed to rebuild it
#21
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before you go out and spend money on new fuel filters, plugs, and other things you have already dumped cash into, I suggest doing a compression test FIRST!.
but it seems you already tryed other stuff. I wouldent even look at the car untill I saw compression numbers first.
but it seems you already tryed other stuff. I wouldent even look at the car untill I saw compression numbers first.