I got a 91 FC and she needs a paintjob bad

I herd good spray paint + clear coat turns out decent.

Any color ideas? I was thinking of going with black but I dunno, currently I got blaze red. (stock color) love the look but I don't think I could do a great job with spray paint

 

stock ftw

 

Screw stock, it looks pink when the cars dry and when its wet/raining it looks like this sexy as **** red.

 

Do you have a picture of the car clean and dry? I'm interested to see what kind of shape it is in, because you can most likely color sand the car, buff it out and seal it. So long as you kept a good coat of wax on it it'd be fine.

 

Those pics aren't really that "clean" we never clean the car since the dirt buildup just comes right back ~_~

 

Yes, 22 year old acrylic urethane will do that.

You're better off going to a body shop and asking what will fit your budget and goals then asking here. I've seen some interesting advice given out for paint work around here.

 

Don't got 500 dollars to spend on a paint job, don't even got 200 but they don't go that cheap

fc3schick told me how to do paint job with spray paint thats what imma look into.

Dunno what colors to do tho

 

Totally fixable. My car looked far worse than that before I did anything to the paint. We're talking it had absolutely no gloss to it...and absorbed light. It was very pink. Back then I didn't know too much about paint at all, so I used abrasive compound and it took me DAYS to work with it. I know now that I could've saved myself a crapload of time if I had simply wet sanded it, buffed it and sealed it.

Tips:

-Use a rubber sanding block
-Don't use anything lower than a 1,200 grit paper. I used 1,000 on my silver car's hood and now there's scratching.
-Use very very lightly soapy water. Don't go crazy with the soap!
-Rinse the paper off every now and then. It'll last longer.
-DO. NOT. SWIRL! Go in one direction with the sand paper only. Up and done or side to side...not up, left, right, down...no circular motion...ONE direction.
-I've gotten good results with Turtle Wax Polishing compound...use it. It's cheap.
-Electric buffers are recommended, but if it's a cheap $20 buffer...it won't do much better than if you had done it by hand but it will save you the pain.
-If any polishing compound dries before you come back to it (If you did an area too large), wet it very lightly with water...don't add more!
-Use a quality paint sealer.
-Mother's wax is the ****.

There's life left in your paint yet! It may not look brand new when you're done, but it will be close enough and you'll be happy. Once you remove the baked and oxidized paint you'll be happy you did it. If you aren't happy with the results afterwards, then go take ClassicAuto's advice...you'll only be out your time and a few bucks.

 

Have fun.

Paint it red so when it starts peeling off the car isn't multi coloured.

 

well you know my rattle can jobs turned out great and lasted long. just stick with the right brands and dont cut corners.

 

If you're going to go the spray paint route, you'd be surprised what can be achieved. You *can* use spray paint...but I'd recommend going to your local paint supply store and seeing if they can mix you a quality automotive paint and fill a can.

If you'll be using something like Duplicolor (I've used it and liked it) here's some things to remember.

Prep. Prep is the ultimate. If you sand the surface down evenly your results will be far better than a poorly sanded surface with bumps and bruises all over the place. You can totally use a random orbital here. Just don't go too low with the grit of paper that you'll be using. I'm gonna say 800, 1000, 1500. Wet the surface.

Once your sanding it done, use an ammonia-based cleaner or go buy some paint prep cleaner from the store. I use this spray my mom makes up...water...alcohol and ammonia. Make sure the surface is VERY clean.

Tape work is also key. Remove anything that you can. Mirrors, spoiler, FTPs, tails, etc. Mask of anything you don't want painted. Notice that you've got a little smidgen of space that didn't get enough tape? Fix it. Seriously.

You can spray paint in your garage. Vacuum, sweep and wipe things down. Use box fans under the lowered garage door to expel fumes.

The distance at which you hold the spray can is very important. For better control, I'd recommend getting one of those spray can handles from Wally World for like a buck. It helps a great deal! If it's pretty warm in your garage, hold the can closer to the surface. The opposite for colder weather. If it's too warm and the can is too far, the paint will dry a bit before it hits the surface and give you a definite texture to the paint. Too close and you'll get runs. You might want to practice on a large sheet of cardboard right before you spray the car to dial in your distancing.

Now for painting... It's probably best to start by being off the surface, then sweep onto the surface and off again. Never 'touch up' something like the edges. You'll get spots. Once you start a line, don't stop. If you're doing the hood, start by getting the paint going OFF OF THE CAR, glide onto the top of the fender and across the hood and off the top of the other fender. Don't stop mid way or change direction. 50% overlap is about right but you can lessen this some depending on the paint. Follow the instructions for the paint.

Once you've got the last coat on, and it's dried a good bit...you can clear the car. Make sure your paint and clear are of the same type. Don't use clear laquer on enamel paint. You get the idea. I like enamel, personally. Once you have a few good coats of clear, LET THE PAINT CURE!

Once it's cured, you can wet sand it. If you really want to make sure you have everything even, you can spray a 'guide coat' of a contrasting color. Like if you use black paint...use a light colored guide coat. All you do is 'dust' the surface all over the car with the guide coat. That way, when you're color sanding, you know what you've gotten and what needs to be sanded.

Color sanding should be done with caution. I'd use 1,500 and then 2,000 grit. Keep the surface very wet and the paper clean. Once the guide coat has been taken off, you're done. Wash the car thoroughly. I usually use plain water.

Once it's dry, pull out your buffer. For smaller things like tail lights and spoilers, I use a drill-fit foam pad. Careful, you can still burn thru paint with this. I recommend renting or borrowing a good quality random orbital buffer though. Use a small amount of polishing compound and only do small areas at a time. Make sure once you're done with an area that you clean it free of any residue. Do the entire car like this!

After you've finished buffing, wax the car.

 

paint your car with rustoleum
probably the cheapest thing you can do,.. search google for "roller paint job"
or you can thin out rustoleum and shoot it thru a spray gun
http://www.instructables.com/id/Pain...ith-Rustoleum/

 

I don't got a garage at my house, the car port where I was considering doing this has minimal wind but is outside, would this be a very bad idea?

I may beable to get into a garage.

Worst comes to worst I could pay one of my buddies friends that works at a shop i suppose =(

 

I would rather buy a faded FC then one resprayed with spray cans.

Dont spray can the car, it will take away from its value and make the car look ghetto. Technically you should also NOT be using box fans to exuast the fumes, box fans do not have explosion proof motors, if someone is using box fans keep that tip to yourself and dont tell people on the internet to do it as if its a safe procedure.

As for those saying the rattle can paint jobs last- do your cars sit outside all the time or are they inside a garage most of the time?

I bet if you took the time to polish and detail the car you would be shocked at how different it can look, those old single stage red cars can really be cleaned up nice if you put some effort into it.

 

This sounds good to me

http://www.rickwrench.com/index79mas...llarpaint.html

Looks very simple.

Well I'm never looking to sell this seven, I didn't buy this seven either.

The worst part of my inherited seven is the paint job, nothing else i can really do for her cept a tranny swap which I wont have the time/cash for a few months.

If you guys really think just treating my paint would make it look sexier, I suppose I'd try it but I'm going to be stripping the car of all its interior, trim, so I was thinking why not do the best spray paint job I can and paint the whole car, but then again the red in the trim (doors n such) is mostly a good red so if th epaint can be restored pretty good I suppose that'd be a better option

 

theres a 222 page thread on hondatech .. they have done it.. interesting to look thru
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1555133&page=1
honda people love that **** lol

probably better if you spray it tho
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c9...g?t=1206923939
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c9...g?t=1206924011
http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/i...g?t=1206924183

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2132553
lookin thru those threads tho, ive yet to see one that makes me think its worth it tho

 

everyone always says they wont sell the car- and one day they do.

the roller method requires multiple coats with sanding in between, without a controlled enviroment you could make a mess, for instance if moisture or dew collects on the car at night before the paint dries it will make a mess for you.
And by the time you buy all the paint, rollers, sandpaper, and buffing machine you would be better off letting MAACO spray the car for you.

 

Bottom line:

You can make a car look "ok" with any type of paint you want. ****, you could buy 200 bottles of touch up paint and mix them together, spray it on a well prepped car and have something that looked OK.

BUT

Paint is the absolute last step in a huge undertaking. If you're doing it properly (it being the body work and prep) the only thing using cheap paint will do is decrease the life of the paint vs. good material. My problem with it is if you're going to put the hundred + hours into doing a good job, why would you cover it with something that will need to be completely stripped off inorder to apply real paint? Its like spending days prepping porting and cleaning an engine to assemble it with some generic pieces of metal cut to fit the rotor slots.

There's always excpetions to the rules however. Sure, you can get away with "cheap" real paint and even some 1K spray cans even use urethane nowadays. The key here is if you KNOW what you're looking for you can end up with something that lasts for a decent amount of time. But chances are most people considering spraying a can with rattle cans won't know the difference between an enamel and sledge hammer.

If you do go the spray can route, research the products you intend to use and go from there. But liek I said, for me personally I think its such a waste to put in the time effort sweat and money (filler, sandpaper, blocks and other tools aren't free *but again, every rule has an exception*) and then paste on some cheap *** product that will not stand up.

 

dont discourage the guy, if he wants to do it, let him
i bet you guys only let professional mechanics touch your car when it needs work huh

 

You can listen to people who spread the word of the internet who have never actually done these things themselves, or you can listen to those who are trying to give you good advice because just maybe they make a living doing it and have done so for years.

I cant tell you how many people have done this brush/roller thing on thier boats only to have wasted HOURS upon HOURS of thier time, many sheets of sandpaper, the mess of the sanding, and the expense of the paint. Rolling it on, sanding it off, rolling it on, sanding it off- just to give up and end up having to then pay someone MORE money to get thier stuff off the surface.

My advice to you is to detail the car, im sure you have at least one friend who is good with a buffer, let him polish the car out, dont use turtle wax or any of that nonsense, have professional products used.
**** you can bring it to a detail shop and they will do a killer job for less then what it would cost you to buy all the items needed. Then from that point you can just keep the car waxed and maintain it youself.

If you dont like the results of the detail then take the time to dismantle the car, then source out someone to paint the car for you, shops are good with a younger person starting out trying to save money, they can give you the procedure that THEY want for spraying your car, then when its all ready you can let them shoot it in a controlled enviroment. The results will be 100000xs better then spray cans or rolling.


edit- I dont know why I never noticed your pictures before, that car can be buffed and made to look incredible, have someone take 5 minutes with a polisher on the fender to show you what it can look like- I gurantee you the thought of rolling paint on your car will never cross your mind again.

 

subscribing. interesting thread!

 

i never did the rustoleum thing and dont really plan to... but if money is an issue its an option

 

I've spray painted multiple items and even a car. I've also repainted dash pieces. Don't go off saying that the job won't last or it'll chip. Any paint will chip off if a rock is kicked up at your car from something like a pickup truck. If you prep it right, lay it right and do the last details right spray paint WILL hold up pretty well. And it's fairly inexpensive.

DO NOT do that roller rustoleum ****. Trust me. I considered it long ago, researched it until I couldn't see anymore and it isn't worth it. It takes too long and god does it look bad.

Spray painting is something you can consider if you don't want to buy/rent spray equipment. When I'm done, my **** looks like a mirror and feels like glass. How long does it last? Only as long as the quality of the work.

Your absolute best bet as I said before is to color sand and buff the car.

Who said don't use Turtle Wax Polishing Compound? I've never had an issue with it whatsoever.

You could skip the color sanding if you wanted. It depends on how bad the damage to the paint is, how deep it goes.

So here's what you do. Cheap and quick first, hard detail later. Try buffing a headlight cover. If when it's done it doesn't look good enough, color sand, buff and seal the other headlight cover. Small easily repairable way of deciding which process you want to go thru with. If neither float your boat, repaint one of the headlight colors in the manner I laid out for you.

 

if you were to use a product like 3m Perfect IT 3000 extra cut you would throw that can of turtle wax in the garbage.
You think it works good because you have not tried something that works GREAT. Dont get defensive about it, instead open your mind.

The old saying goes something like "There's none so deaf as those who will not hear, There's none so blind as those who will not see"

Its funny because I keep thinking of the poster saying he will never sell the car. That there is the single most important statement made. Why?
Well lets take my car for example, I had driven it for a few years with some dents and dings. I painted it because I also said I will never sell it. Now 11 YEARS later I can still take it to shows and come home with a trophy, and up until 4 years ago the car lived outside and was even my daily driver up until 6 years ago.

If you truly value your investment then do the right thing for it.

 

buy a cheap air compressor
harborfrieght special

i need to replace mine