Painted intake manifold?
#1
Painted intake manifold?
I was wondering if anyone has painted their intake manifold? I was thinking about doing it since I'm rebuilding the engine, but I'm worried how it will look, if it's gonna look like crap, then I really don't wanna bother with it.
#2
well first of all dude, this is the wrong section for this. But i'd advise not too, unless you're going to do a perfect job on it. Take off you're thottle body for sure, you don't want it to stick, and be aware of your throttle cable. what are you planning on using? Are you going to use spray paint?
#3
Painted manifolds
Here are mine. I was goin to polish them at first so i sanded them down with buffing pads on an air grinder, then sanblasted and sanded by hand. i used some old honda silver i had from a friends bumper i painted. they tuned out really nice. so 3 coats of paint and 4 coats of clear.
#6
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From: virginia beach, virginia
damn, thats a pretty intake manifold setup you got there.
this is a kinda 3 tier system, in this order
ceramic
powder coat
paint
polish
the ceramic is a good idea, it cuts down on heat soak and make make the engine bay look nice
powder coat is impervious to chemicals and oil, and may cut on heat soak? but you can get it any color you want, including chrome
paint is a decent, if you dont do it right it looks kinda shitty and if you get any chemicals on it (which you will) you have the potential of ruining the setup
polish, takes SOOOOOOO much work, upkeep isnt bad, but unless you plan on matching everything, imo not worth the time. time is $
so there, its my list of my preference of how i would set up my engine bay. obviously its my oppinion, but you do as you will, everyone has their own taste and preference.
just remember, proper masking and prep changes everything
Lloyd
this is a kinda 3 tier system, in this order
ceramic
powder coat
paint
polish
the ceramic is a good idea, it cuts down on heat soak and make make the engine bay look nice
powder coat is impervious to chemicals and oil, and may cut on heat soak? but you can get it any color you want, including chrome
paint is a decent, if you dont do it right it looks kinda shitty and if you get any chemicals on it (which you will) you have the potential of ruining the setup
polish, takes SOOOOOOO much work, upkeep isnt bad, but unless you plan on matching everything, imo not worth the time. time is $
so there, its my list of my preference of how i would set up my engine bay. obviously its my oppinion, but you do as you will, everyone has their own taste and preference.
just remember, proper masking and prep changes everything
Lloyd
#7
Ceramic coating or powdercoating is also what I would recommend. You can paint it and if it is decent pain it will hold up fine, but painted ones never look that good IMO.
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#9
Thanks everyone, I just wanted to get some opinions and see some pics to try and decide on what I was gonna do. No, I wasn't going to use spray paint, I've used spray paint before on different things not related to cars, and I know most of the time, spray paint sucks. I wanna eventually get a paint job on my car, pink, and pearly white. So I wanted the engine bay to match. Ha, and yes I'm a girl, not a dude.
#11
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From: virginia beach, virginia
heres my powdercoated stuff in my last engine bay
and a 13brew i powder coated
so ya, youve seen the ceramic, theres the powdercoat, everyone with an FD seems to get theirs polished. i just really dont recommend paint
Lloyd
and a 13brew i powder coated
so ya, youve seen the ceramic, theres the powdercoat, everyone with an FD seems to get theirs polished. i just really dont recommend paint
Lloyd
#12
sure those engines look good on the engine stands but take some pictures after a few months of use, then a year of use, 2 years of use. you get my point..
i like the n/a exhaust on the FD engine, that is awesome reengineering btw.. :p
i try to keep the paint as close to the original color of the base metal as possible so when the paint does chip, flake and peel(which it will) it won't look like complete ***.
i am curious to know how well the clear coats you guys used stand up to the heat of a rotary though, i would have to imagine it doesn't last very long before it yellows, cooks or flakes off.
i like the n/a exhaust on the FD engine, that is awesome reengineering btw.. :p
i try to keep the paint as close to the original color of the base metal as possible so when the paint does chip, flake and peel(which it will) it won't look like complete ***.
i am curious to know how well the clear coats you guys used stand up to the heat of a rotary though, i would have to imagine it doesn't last very long before it yellows, cooks or flakes off.
#13
On the fasttrack!
iTrader: (22)
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,494
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From: virginia beach, virginia
high temp paint bro, come on.......
and the powder coat doesnt ever change color. the intake mani's, after 2 years looked the same as the day i pulled them out of the oven. same thing with engines, you just have to clean them off when you want to show the engine.
Lloyd
and the powder coat doesnt ever change color. the intake mani's, after 2 years looked the same as the day i pulled them out of the oven. same thing with engines, you just have to clean them off when you want to show the engine.
Lloyd
#18
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,793
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From: London, Ontario, Canada
Meh, might as well toss a few pictures in here. For the record, my paint is holding up fine. 3 years and counting. There is a chip here and there, but that's just regular use. These pictures were taken when the paint was already 2 years old.
#22
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,793
Likes: 119
From: London, Ontario, Canada
Yep.
Nothing wrong with paint in a can as long as the user knows how to properly use it and appropriate prep is done.
I've seen rattle can painted cars that look 10x better then stuff which has come from a respected body shop. The painting itself is 5% of the work. The other 95% is prep and wet sanding.
Nothing wrong with paint in a can as long as the user knows how to properly use it and appropriate prep is done.
I've seen rattle can painted cars that look 10x better then stuff which has come from a respected body shop. The painting itself is 5% of the work. The other 95% is prep and wet sanding.
#24
@Aaron cake, you have no issues with the OMP lines not wrapped in like heat resistant tubing?
I'm only asking because I'm in the process of rebuilding my OMP lines, and am debating the issue.
I'm only asking because I'm in the process of rebuilding my OMP lines, and am debating the issue.