A new carbon deposit cleaning technique (pressure washer required)
#1
A new carbon deposit cleaning technique (pressure washer required)
Well I was swapping my motor from one car to another and thought I'd blast the grese off the motor with a pressure washer (thanks 7dust).
While I had my sweet exhaust off I thought I'd see if I could get those rotors and apex seal groves squeaky clean.
So basically I pressure washed every rotor face and apex seal in the motor. I blasted it, rotated it, blased it, ect. until I got bored.
this IS a scientific test because I compession tested it before (with a real didgital rotary compression tester, see twistedrotors) and it was about 80 psi +/- 2 all around.
I inclused a pic and very short video just so you get the idea.
BTW, afterwards i spun it till most of the water came out and sprayed some wd40 in there to keep rust down.
I will update this thread with results when (if) I get it running again!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I8f2YTzwXPo
While I had my sweet exhaust off I thought I'd see if I could get those rotors and apex seal groves squeaky clean.
So basically I pressure washed every rotor face and apex seal in the motor. I blasted it, rotated it, blased it, ect. until I got bored.
this IS a scientific test because I compession tested it before (with a real didgital rotary compression tester, see twistedrotors) and it was about 80 psi +/- 2 all around.
I inclused a pic and very short video just so you get the idea.
BTW, afterwards i spun it till most of the water came out and sprayed some wd40 in there to keep rust down.
I will update this thread with results when (if) I get it running again!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I8f2YTzwXPo
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#11
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^^
lol this made my day.
after you do the whole wd40 spin the rotor thing use oil.
you should run premix on a couple of gallons of gas just to make sure the apex seals and rotor housings have a prominent layer of lube.
lol this made my day.
after you do the whole wd40 spin the rotor thing use oil.
you should run premix on a couple of gallons of gas just to make sure the apex seals and rotor housings have a prominent layer of lube.
#12
Rotors still spinning
iTrader: (1)
Phil is so creative with his thinking that it's hard to believe it isn't scripted for redneck tv. I couldn't think of many of his techniques if I was actually TRYING to figure out the worst possible way to do things! The scary part is that he's proud of this! I will say one thing. If we ever have a zombie apocalypse and need to rig random things to work, he'll probably be just fine.
#14
Turbo power, activate!
iTrader: (7)
Phil is so creative with his thinking that it's hard to believe it isn't scripted for redneck tv. I couldn't think of many of his techniques if I was actually TRYING to figure out the worst possible way to do things! The scary part is that he's proud of this! I will say one thing. If we ever have a zombie apocalypse and need to rig random things to work, he'll probably be just fine.
#16
Rotors still spinning
iTrader: (1)
I think he'd be ok. The whole point in a survival situation is to make something work form whatever parts you have in any way possible. He's creative there. Almost too creative. Unfortunately he treats his daily driver the exact same way! I guarantee he has spent more time and money doing things wrong over and over again than he would have just doing it right the first time. We wouldn't have these epic threads to laugh at though!
#17
Rotary Freak
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#20
Rotary Freak
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What you did is better than dumping water in the intake but you should really get that engine started and warmed up as soon as possible to evaporate the remaining moisture. I'd start to worry about the seals sticking or rust in the thrust bearings if the engine sits for more than a few weeks.
#23
What you did is better than dumping water in the intake but you should really get that engine started and warmed up as soon as possible to evaporate the remaining moisture. I'd start to worry about the seals sticking or rust in the thrust bearings if the engine sits for more than a few weeks.