let see the best widebody 2nd gen
#451
#463
#465
My fenders are riveted & I used expoxy to mount with body filler to mold the seam. Been there for over 10 yrs on the same paint since the body work. I'm sure they will crack eventually, but not yet & when they do that's great an excuse for me to change colors. BTW I did my own work & By far not a paint & body man, just got lucky I guess. LOL
#466
^ I agree, I did use a 2 part epoxy before I rivited them on. I have driven the car hard before, but not on a regular basis. The car never sees rain or cold weather. I also used clear caulk on the inner seam in the wheel wells. On a car built to be tracked I would definately say don't mold, besides the rivited look gives a meaner appeal along with ease of replacement of sections when needed. IMO the stock lines are beautiful & the only reason to widen the car is to get more meat under the car. Alot of the kits are not cheap & will require some sort of care so with that said know what you are getting into before diving in. Also none of these kits are direct fits, they all take time & patience unless you have some one else install.
#469
It does depend on what epoxy you use as well as how the fenders are mounted along with whether or not you actually drive the car hard in terms of whether or not the chassis sees flex.
If you use a 3m 2 part bonding system along with rivets and do the initial seams with the same bonding system, you will see less cracking because the seam sealer is actually flexing differently from the fender and metal causing a cushion between the two. Eventually it just takes 1 person to lean or fall on it or water to get in between the fender and the panel bond or extreme temperatures or just enough chassis flex and it is time to redo what you have already done.
There are benefits to not molding just as there are to molding. The problem is most people do not think to seal around the rivets or inside the over fender causing excess problems to occur.
If you use a 3m 2 part bonding system along with rivets and do the initial seams with the same bonding system, you will see less cracking because the seam sealer is actually flexing differently from the fender and metal causing a cushion between the two. Eventually it just takes 1 person to lean or fall on it or water to get in between the fender and the panel bond or extreme temperatures or just enough chassis flex and it is time to redo what you have already done.
There are benefits to not molding just as there are to molding. The problem is most people do not think to seal around the rivets or inside the over fender causing excess problems to occur.
#473
Does anyone still make the tri point fendors (front and rear). I think RaceOnUSA based their the "type 338" fenders on this but I don't want to order from those idiots for fitment reasons unless I absolutely can't find something better.
http://www.raceonusa.com/mazda-rx7-8...86-92-2-3-door
http://www.raceonusa.com/mazda-rx7-8...86-92-2-3-door
I'm looking to be into about 315s on all 4 corners but I think RX-Heven's kit doesn't flow right and I can't stand rear over fenders that cover the top of the wheel only and are forced to hourglass in at the molding.
http://www.raceonusa.com/mazda-rx7-8...86-92-2-3-door
http://www.raceonusa.com/mazda-rx7-8...86-92-2-3-door
I'm looking to be into about 315s on all 4 corners but I think RX-Heven's kit doesn't flow right and I can't stand rear over fenders that cover the top of the wheel only and are forced to hourglass in at the molding.
#474
Check, check and check and check some ******* more before drilling, mounting...etc....
Fiberglass its itchy. **** is embedded in my elbows as i type this....
#475
Does anyone still make the tri point fendors (front and rear). I think RaceOnUSA based their the "type 338" fenders on this but I don't want to order from those idiots for fitment reasons unless I absolutely can't find something better.
http://www.raceonusa.com/mazda-rx7-8...86-92-2-3-door
http://www.raceonusa.com/mazda-rx7-8...86-92-2-3-door
I'm looking to be into about 315s on all 4 corners but I think RX-Heven's kit doesn't flow right and I can't stand rear over fenders that cover the top of the wheel only and are forced to hourglass in at the molding.
http://www.raceonusa.com/mazda-rx7-8...86-92-2-3-door
http://www.raceonusa.com/mazda-rx7-8...86-92-2-3-door
I'm looking to be into about 315s on all 4 corners but I think RX-Heven's kit doesn't flow right and I can't stand rear over fenders that cover the top of the wheel only and are forced to hourglass in at the molding.