Do we have any rattle can paint jobs? Post em
#4
after 5 cans of spraybomb primer
still wet (only 5 cans of forest green used)
2 weeks later after a bath(and cut springs)
A year later on pbm coils and a lil dirty..
Im not really proud to have a rattle can paint job but its better than having flaking arctic silver and a red door haha. I sanded down the whole car with a da and threw primer at it, let it sit over night, then painted the next morning. Its held up pretty well compared to anyone else spraybomb work... no flaking or chipping on my car except what you can barley see in the last pic. As expected it has faded a lil (mostly the roof) but at a distance its not to noticable.
still wet (only 5 cans of forest green used)
2 weeks later after a bath(and cut springs)
A year later on pbm coils and a lil dirty..
Im not really proud to have a rattle can paint job but its better than having flaking arctic silver and a red door haha. I sanded down the whole car with a da and threw primer at it, let it sit over night, then painted the next morning. Its held up pretty well compared to anyone else spraybomb work... no flaking or chipping on my car except what you can barley see in the last pic. As expected it has faded a lil (mostly the roof) but at a distance its not to noticable.
#7
I did my zx10 with rattle cans. It was house of kolors paint in aerosol cans though. great coverage. simple clean up. Used a lot less paint than in a sprayer. primer sealer and clear were out of a sprayer though. very quick and simple with no mixing. i think it was 25 a can. also used colorrite sp? to touch up my hayabusa. i know this isint the purpose of the thread but just wanted to let you guys who don't know that you can get automotive paint in a can. as long as you take your time with the prep work and can use a rattle can you can have a very nice paint job that's easy to do.
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#8
I'm doing one now. It is harder than I thought and taking longer than I thought. My problems started with the paint gun. I'm doing a very I bought for 500 from a forum member. With hardly any money or resorces i made lots of progress, I never painted before so this has a huge learning curve for me. By far the hardest part is finding time to finish. No help, very little money, and no time.
#9
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,216
Likes: 10
From: Melbourne FL/San Antonio TX/Okinawa Japan
rattle car paint job. gloss gray with two coats of rattle can clear coat. Waited a week before wet sanding with 1500 paper then a good buffing. Cost was under 75$ If I knew the paint was going to come out the way it did, we would have spent more time on the body and prep work and did a better job of putting the paint on more even.
#13
rattle car paint job. gloss gray with two coats of rattle can clear coat. Waited a week before wet sanding with 1500 paper then a good buffing. Cost was under 75$ If I knew the paint was going to come out the way it did, we would have spent more time on the body and prep work and did a better job of putting the paint on more even.
#16
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,216
Likes: 10
From: Melbourne FL/San Antonio TX/Okinawa Japan
3/4 coats of color and 2/3 coats of clear.
One thing I'v noticed about the rattle can paint job is the paint is not as durable as automotive paint. I thought it would harden after a few weeks but may take longer to harden. A camera suction cup was installed on the side of the car and when we removed the cup some paint came off. (very small section ) It might not have been the paints fault but rather the primer not completely dry. But for the price.
One thing I'v noticed about the rattle can paint job is the paint is not as durable as automotive paint. I thought it would harden after a few weeks but may take longer to harden. A camera suction cup was installed on the side of the car and when we removed the cup some paint came off. (very small section ) It might not have been the paints fault but rather the primer not completely dry. But for the price.
#18
http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...paint-job-quot
#20
I'm getting very curious now. I bought an old beat up pickup truck that I sprayed with about 14 cans of $0.99 flat black. The truck literally hurt my eyes before. I wanted to start learning how to do body work, and so far the body work stuff is turning out ok. The only thing I don't know how to do is properly paint.
I do have a nice spray gun that I want to start using. I keep reading that some guys are using rustoleum gallons, but is there a certain kind to use, or better yet, a certain kind to NOT use? Can you buy the stuff off the shelf at Lowe's and have them tint it? And when spraying it through a gun, what's the ratio you use to thin it out? Do you still spray 3 coats and then wet sand? Do you polish it before spraying on the clearcoat, or do you just wet sand, then spray on the clear, then wet sand some more and polish once everything's done?
I do have a nice spray gun that I want to start using. I keep reading that some guys are using rustoleum gallons, but is there a certain kind to use, or better yet, a certain kind to NOT use? Can you buy the stuff off the shelf at Lowe's and have them tint it? And when spraying it through a gun, what's the ratio you use to thin it out? Do you still spray 3 coats and then wet sand? Do you polish it before spraying on the clearcoat, or do you just wet sand, then spray on the clear, then wet sand some more and polish once everything's done?
#21
Just buy the standard Rustoleum. I don't believe that they can tint it or do any kind of color customization.
But anywho, just find a color, get a gallon, get a gallon of mineral spirits. Mix 50/50 or until it's the consistency of milk. Wet sand prior to spraying. Spray 2-3 coats. Wet sand. Spray 2 more coats. Wet sand with softer sand paper. Spray one more coat and wet sand with even softer paper. Spray final coat and wet sand with 2000 grit. Let it cure. Then polish and buff.
No need for a clear, it's a single stage paint. It will dry out nice and even. Will last MANY years and still look great.
I have vehicles I've painted with it more than 6 years ago, and they still look nice.
But anywho, just find a color, get a gallon, get a gallon of mineral spirits. Mix 50/50 or until it's the consistency of milk. Wet sand prior to spraying. Spray 2-3 coats. Wet sand. Spray 2 more coats. Wet sand with softer sand paper. Spray one more coat and wet sand with even softer paper. Spray final coat and wet sand with 2000 grit. Let it cure. Then polish and buff.
No need for a clear, it's a single stage paint. It will dry out nice and even. Will last MANY years and still look great.
I have vehicles I've painted with it more than 6 years ago, and they still look nice.