Classicauto's S4 TII
#1
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Crash Auto?Fix Auto.
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From: Hagersville Ontario
Classicauto's S4 TII
Figured I'd start a thread now that I have something worth looking at.
Put the first coats of primer on it and its starting to look like a car. I've only coated the body work now using P20 primer, its basically Gelcoat thats suitable for use as primer. Cured with MEKP just like polyester resin. Works GREAT for shelling in body work on fiberglass panels such as the body kit.
Body kit is a modifed Bomex piece. It is a genuine Bomex kit, but I modified the side skirts by removing the S5 mouldings they cast into them to allow keeping all the S4 moulding. Plus I think it flows better since the front & rear bumpers both end below the mouldigns anyways.
The headlights were CP racing units that I grafted to the front cover. I may change the design/shape eventually but for now I'm going to install NO lexan covers and make no lines around the outside of the lights.......I think it'll be pretty neat, but I may add covers somewhere down the line.
The car will have paint on it within a week and a half. Its going original Sunrise red and will be base coat clear coat with BASF's new waterbase colour coats - Aquabase.
I'll follow this thread through the rest of the build, breif details are S5 engine/streetport, GT3574, Snowperformacne Meth injection, and full Jacobs leading ignition. It will happene relatively quickly as this car will be making the several thousand kilometer roundtrip journey to Deal's Gap Rotary Rally 2008 and beyond to the Florida keys in the month of April.
Here's some pics to get this going:
Put the first coats of primer on it and its starting to look like a car. I've only coated the body work now using P20 primer, its basically Gelcoat thats suitable for use as primer. Cured with MEKP just like polyester resin. Works GREAT for shelling in body work on fiberglass panels such as the body kit.
Body kit is a modifed Bomex piece. It is a genuine Bomex kit, but I modified the side skirts by removing the S5 mouldings they cast into them to allow keeping all the S4 moulding. Plus I think it flows better since the front & rear bumpers both end below the mouldigns anyways.
The headlights were CP racing units that I grafted to the front cover. I may change the design/shape eventually but for now I'm going to install NO lexan covers and make no lines around the outside of the lights.......I think it'll be pretty neat, but I may add covers somewhere down the line.
The car will have paint on it within a week and a half. Its going original Sunrise red and will be base coat clear coat with BASF's new waterbase colour coats - Aquabase.
I'll follow this thread through the rest of the build, breif details are S5 engine/streetport, GT3574, Snowperformacne Meth injection, and full Jacobs leading ignition. It will happene relatively quickly as this car will be making the several thousand kilometer roundtrip journey to Deal's Gap Rotary Rally 2008 and beyond to the Florida keys in the month of April.
Here's some pics to get this going:
#2
the sunrise red vs blaze red dilemma ...... iknow you said before you prefer the sunrise, where I'm on the blaze side .
Have you considered the royal maroon red , I think that would really make that TII stand out with the new front.
Have you considered the royal maroon red , I think that would really make that TII stand out with the new front.
#4
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Crash Auto?Fix Auto.
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From: Hagersville Ontario
I even debated keeping the S4 mouldings black, but chose to paint them along with the rest of the car since they had a few little marks here and there. If I want to go back to black later I can always just paint them, and now I'll have a nice, unmarked surface to stick it to.
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#9
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Crash Auto?Fix Auto.
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From: Hagersville Ontario
And I can't wait to show it! lol
HA, well I did have to take a little break in between
OK - here's some pics of how it sits this very minute. The paint arrived this morning so I'll be a busy beaver tonite spraying the body/engine bay.
Its final primer in the pictures, DP26 and 27 to be exact. BASF's direct to metal high build primer, works well for filling the 120/180 scratches left in the polyester primer underneath.
The front bumper needs final sanding as well as the sunroof, mirrors, hood, fuel door, spoiler and passenger's door handle (I have an OEM driver's handle and WON"T be painting it. I'm matching the body to its original colour ) But they will be getting sprayed at a later date, possibly wednesday. I can only fit so much in the booth at once
Tomorrow I'll post pics of the engine at home slowly getting dressed up.
Originally Posted by silverrotor
Very nice Joe. I'm surprised that you are able to even look at another FC after dealing with mine.
OK - here's some pics of how it sits this very minute. The paint arrived this morning so I'll be a busy beaver tonite spraying the body/engine bay.
Its final primer in the pictures, DP26 and 27 to be exact. BASF's direct to metal high build primer, works well for filling the 120/180 scratches left in the polyester primer underneath.
The front bumper needs final sanding as well as the sunroof, mirrors, hood, fuel door, spoiler and passenger's door handle (I have an OEM driver's handle and WON"T be painting it. I'm matching the body to its original colour ) But they will be getting sprayed at a later date, possibly wednesday. I can only fit so much in the booth at once
Tomorrow I'll post pics of the engine at home slowly getting dressed up.
#20
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Crash Auto?Fix Auto.
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From: Hagersville Ontario
Rotary Dynamics, great builders!!
Jim and Darryl did great work on my engine. They've always done good work and this is no exception, engine looks beautiful and the internals are the same way. They even went above the call and got some plated nuts/bolts for me!
S5 keg (flawless components)
Medium streetport
2mm OEM apex seals
FD corner seals
OEM FD oil pump
Engine will be mostly all flat black. Just a few components will be their original finish such as the OEM FD alt, the turbo, the oil filterpedestal and a few other thigns I'm probably forgetting. The mani's, TB, I/C piping, I/C endtanks will be flat black......
Here's the pics:
These are the Jacob's coil packs and LIM. I'm tapping the waterport for the turbo....old T04-R was oil only. (BTW - IAN, I know you're wondering "no MSD?" Well the coils/amps I got from Dave - Rx-heaven for a song....he was lighting 15% of his fuel map of pure water with this setup and couldn't turn it down for the price. So here I am )
S5 keg (flawless components)
Medium streetport
2mm OEM apex seals
FD corner seals
OEM FD oil pump
Engine will be mostly all flat black. Just a few components will be their original finish such as the OEM FD alt, the turbo, the oil filterpedestal and a few other thigns I'm probably forgetting. The mani's, TB, I/C piping, I/C endtanks will be flat black......
Here's the pics:
These are the Jacob's coil packs and LIM. I'm tapping the waterport for the turbo....old T04-R was oil only. (BTW - IAN, I know you're wondering "no MSD?" Well the coils/amps I got from Dave - Rx-heaven for a song....he was lighting 15% of his fuel map of pure water with this setup and couldn't turn it down for the price. So here I am )
#21
Funny you mentioned that. I looked at the pictures and wondered if the MSD coils turned blue Then I read the post
I may chance it and not run any ignition upgrade. Should be ok for 20psi or more I hope.
Lots of nice work on that car. Dropped a part on my car today. Getting closer to I "have" to have a paint job myself...........
I may chance it and not run any ignition upgrade. Should be ok for 20psi or more I hope.
Lots of nice work on that car. Dropped a part on my car today. Getting closer to I "have" to have a paint job myself...........
#23
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Crash Auto?Fix Auto.
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They may not be chronologically correct, but the engine is now ready for the car.
I'm completeing a final bit of wiring through the firewall for the Jacobs ignition amps, and then I'll put the engine back in its home. Expect installed pics next week.
#24
all that power.. what kind of suspension and brakes are you going to go with?
Did you mold in the sideskirts? i usually have the body kits sprayed seperatly, in case later on i decide to change bodykits etc, there wont be no different colors underneath.
Did you mold in the sideskirts? i usually have the body kits sprayed seperatly, in case later on i decide to change bodykits etc, there wont be no different colors underneath.
Last edited by Hypertek; 02-27-08 at 01:22 PM.
#25
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Crash Auto?Fix Auto.
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From: Hagersville Ontario
Just a typical spring/shock combo. Tokico blues with eibach pro springs. Drops it maybe 3/4" from stock. EDIT: I don't want to go too low. Painting the car once is good enough for me Plus where I live there's lots of "obstacles" on the road, be it dead racoons, dead cats, whatever. I need ride height for clearance
Brakes are also stock TII, with cross drilled rotors.
This car is a street warrior mostly, and I've owned enough coil-overed FC's to have an appreciation for the smooth, yet firm ride of a spring/shock combo. Although, I can actually get alot done at the track with these as well...tires are the largest factor.
Brakes are also stock TII, with cross drilled rotors.
This car is a street warrior mostly, and I've owned enough coil-overed FC's to have an appreciation for the smooth, yet firm ride of a spring/shock combo. Although, I can actually get alot done at the track with these as well...tires are the largest factor.