WRITE UP!!! for those who wanted my CAI write up... here it is (archive me!!)
05-09-04 | 08:17 PM
#1
Thread Starter
1.3L is not that small
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,470
Likes: 1
From: Nacogdoches Tx
WRITE UP!!! for those who wanted my CAI write up... here it is (archive me!!)
USUAL DISCLAIMER: I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANYTHING YOU DO TO YOUR CAR. I HAVE HAD THIS SETUP A WHILE AND USED IT ON PREVIOUS CARS WITH NO ILL EFFECTS. IF YOU CHOOSE TO USE A POS FILTER AND NOT A QUALITY ONE THEN THAT IS YOUR OWN FAULT 
Ok guys you want a write up for the CAI I made, first off the filter will be located in the fender well, second this involves removing the windshield washer fill bottle, the air pump silencer will also be removed, due to the fact I did not want either one of these its your option to fabricate up something else in its place, relocate it or just toss it like the rest of us. I do know somebody on the forum has used the headlight washer bottle to still retain the windshield washers in working order with a bit of creative wiring, I do not know how so don’t ask… well here you go… first off I will start with the parts list.
1. good quality filter and ring clamp (do not buy the size I have… its much too big but it was given to me by a friend, so for free and k&n I don’t complain)
2. two 3” and one 3” -> 2.5” coupler with ring clamps on both ends (so 4 ring clamps)
3. some electrical tape
4. tools for misc. removal of parts in the bay or unbolting stuff
5. a cutting tool like a dremel or a good metal cutting hacksaw
6. metal strips to fabricate a bracket to hold the AFM up
7. a AFM to filter adapter (I bought one from HKS for the quality, the ones on ebay are crappy made and cause turbulence due to the sudden transformation from square to circle)
8. a hose to go from the piping to the BAC if you still have one like me
9. the piping can be found in different places depending on your budget… you can buy the piping at AutoZone like I did for 40$ a pop or buy a kit on ebay for cheaper, just look around, use your head see what else works… From the TB to the AFM you need a straight pipe that is 11” long and from the AFM to the filter you need a pipe that has a 45 degree bend and a minimum of 9 inches measured form the vertex of the angle (refer to diagram below)
PICTURE 1
1. First off you need to remove the under tray/brake ducting passage from the passenger side of the car to access everything in this area. Also remove all of the under the hood intake parts from the TB elbow down except the AFM…… KEEP THAT, none of it is being kept
2. then start removing the air pump muffler and windshield washer bottle. Both of these are not just unbolt out easy but do require some time to remove due to the fact they have a bolt and a nut that moves… best thing to do is prop a wrench in there to keep the bolt from moving and use a socket wrench on the side you can see… its not hard I’m sure you can figure it out!!
3. now we get to more of the fabrication parts… the pressure sensor is going to be in the way as well as the bracket it sits on. So unbolt the pressure sensor and move it to the bolt that is on the inner side of the strut tower or bolt it onto the brackets you are going to make to hold the AFM up. Here is a pic of where mine is….
PICTURE 2
4. now get out your cutting tool/tools and trim that bracket the pressure sensor bolted onto… just make it look like mine
PICTURE 3
[IMG] http://www.putFile.com/051002050836950.jpg [/IMG]
5. After cutting that then start cutting the hole that the removal of the windshield washer bottle left.. you only need to expand this hole so that your piping fits though it.. in my case 3 inches… use whatever you think you can for cutting, though I used a plasma cutter I think a dremel or a drill could get the job done just fine, just not in 10 seconds like mine
pic of where the hole is
PICTURE 4
[IMG] http://www.putFile.com/051002053851424.jpg[/IMG]
6. Ok now for the piping… the first pipe needs to be 11 inches long with a hole in the upper end for the BAC hose if you have one… just cut the pipe the proper length and drill a hole and your done for that piping. Just find a hose that is long enough and your BAC is taken care of
PICTURE 5
7. Now put on the 3 inch couplers on each end of that 11 inch pipe. Bolt on the AFM to one end (one without the hole for the BAC) and secure it nicely… then stick the other end into the TB elbow and measure for the bracket holes…. If you have a friend now is the time to have them help. While one of you hold up the intake the other one needs to mark where to drill the holes for the bracket that will hold the AFM up on its own… I used the two on the top of the strut tower from the pressure sensor bracket and the hole on the back top of the AFM (on the AFM these are already tapped… just use one of the bolts you took off your car earlier from the pressure sensor bracket and use that for the screws, they are all the same size thread.. if you don’t have any just buy some)
PICTURE 6
[IMG] http://www.putFile.com/051002055256004.jpg [/IMG]
8. After you have that made go ahead and bolt everything you have made up so far in other words mount the AFM and the piping from the AFM to the TB and the AFM adapter. Now you might have noticed that the TB elbow is bigger than the 3 inch coupler but the coupler fits really snug in there… to fix this (small town couldn’t find a bigger coupler) I used some really good quality electrical tape and wrapped it around the joint to make sure there would be no air leaks. You can do the same or you can somehow find a big *** coupler but I prefer this look cause it looks better (look at pic above to see what I’m talking about)…. Anyway now you get to the slightly harder part… After you have it bolted up then take your second piping with the bend in it put on the 3 inch coupler to the end with the bend and insert one end into the hole. Go ahead and bolt it all in… pretty much that is what its going to look like now… once you have it positioned crawl up under the car and mark the piping where it needs to be cut… MAKE SURE YOU LEAVE ROOM TO BOLT THE FILTER NECK ONTO!!! And triple check yourself unless you want to buy another pipe to start over… pic is below of example
PICTURE 7
[IMG] http://www.putFile.com/051002053095157.jpg[/IMG]
PICTURE 8
9. Cut the piping and reinstall in the same position… bolt on filter and YOUR DONE!!!!
PICTURE 9
[IMG] http://www.putFile.com/051002054060108.jpg [/IMG]
Now if you do this you better take pics!!! I want to see how everybody’s comes out and what they do different… here are some other random pics just incase you need a diff view or want to see more of it….
PICTURE 10
[IMG] http://www.putFile.com/051002051878432.jpg [/IMG]
PICTURE 11
[IMG] http://www.putFile.com/05100205536434.jpg[/IMG]
Ok guys you want a write up for the CAI I made, first off the filter will be located in the fender well, second this involves removing the windshield washer fill bottle, the air pump silencer will also be removed, due to the fact I did not want either one of these its your option to fabricate up something else in its place, relocate it or just toss it like the rest of us. I do know somebody on the forum has used the headlight washer bottle to still retain the windshield washers in working order with a bit of creative wiring, I do not know how so don’t ask… well here you go… first off I will start with the parts list.
1. good quality filter and ring clamp (do not buy the size I have… its much too big but it was given to me by a friend, so for free and k&n I don’t complain)
2. two 3” and one 3” -> 2.5” coupler with ring clamps on both ends (so 4 ring clamps)
3. some electrical tape
4. tools for misc. removal of parts in the bay or unbolting stuff
5. a cutting tool like a dremel or a good metal cutting hacksaw
6. metal strips to fabricate a bracket to hold the AFM up
7. a AFM to filter adapter (I bought one from HKS for the quality, the ones on ebay are crappy made and cause turbulence due to the sudden transformation from square to circle)
8. a hose to go from the piping to the BAC if you still have one like me
9. the piping can be found in different places depending on your budget… you can buy the piping at AutoZone like I did for 40$ a pop or buy a kit on ebay for cheaper, just look around, use your head see what else works… From the TB to the AFM you need a straight pipe that is 11” long and from the AFM to the filter you need a pipe that has a 45 degree bend and a minimum of 9 inches measured form the vertex of the angle (refer to diagram below)
PICTURE 1
1. First off you need to remove the under tray/brake ducting passage from the passenger side of the car to access everything in this area. Also remove all of the under the hood intake parts from the TB elbow down except the AFM…… KEEP THAT, none of it is being kept
2. then start removing the air pump muffler and windshield washer bottle. Both of these are not just unbolt out easy but do require some time to remove due to the fact they have a bolt and a nut that moves… best thing to do is prop a wrench in there to keep the bolt from moving and use a socket wrench on the side you can see… its not hard I’m sure you can figure it out!!
3. now we get to more of the fabrication parts… the pressure sensor is going to be in the way as well as the bracket it sits on. So unbolt the pressure sensor and move it to the bolt that is on the inner side of the strut tower or bolt it onto the brackets you are going to make to hold the AFM up. Here is a pic of where mine is….
PICTURE 2
4. now get out your cutting tool/tools and trim that bracket the pressure sensor bolted onto… just make it look like mine
PICTURE 3
[IMG] http://www.putFile.com/051002050836950.jpg [/IMG]
5. After cutting that then start cutting the hole that the removal of the windshield washer bottle left.. you only need to expand this hole so that your piping fits though it.. in my case 3 inches… use whatever you think you can for cutting, though I used a plasma cutter I think a dremel or a drill could get the job done just fine, just not in 10 seconds like mine
pic of where the hole is PICTURE 4
[IMG] http://www.putFile.com/051002053851424.jpg[/IMG]
6. Ok now for the piping… the first pipe needs to be 11 inches long with a hole in the upper end for the BAC hose if you have one… just cut the pipe the proper length and drill a hole and your done for that piping. Just find a hose that is long enough and your BAC is taken care of
PICTURE 5
7. Now put on the 3 inch couplers on each end of that 11 inch pipe. Bolt on the AFM to one end (one without the hole for the BAC) and secure it nicely… then stick the other end into the TB elbow and measure for the bracket holes…. If you have a friend now is the time to have them help. While one of you hold up the intake the other one needs to mark where to drill the holes for the bracket that will hold the AFM up on its own… I used the two on the top of the strut tower from the pressure sensor bracket and the hole on the back top of the AFM (on the AFM these are already tapped… just use one of the bolts you took off your car earlier from the pressure sensor bracket and use that for the screws, they are all the same size thread.. if you don’t have any just buy some)
PICTURE 6
[IMG] http://www.putFile.com/051002055256004.jpg [/IMG]
8. After you have that made go ahead and bolt everything you have made up so far in other words mount the AFM and the piping from the AFM to the TB and the AFM adapter. Now you might have noticed that the TB elbow is bigger than the 3 inch coupler but the coupler fits really snug in there… to fix this (small town couldn’t find a bigger coupler) I used some really good quality electrical tape and wrapped it around the joint to make sure there would be no air leaks. You can do the same or you can somehow find a big *** coupler but I prefer this look cause it looks better (look at pic above to see what I’m talking about)…. Anyway now you get to the slightly harder part… After you have it bolted up then take your second piping with the bend in it put on the 3 inch coupler to the end with the bend and insert one end into the hole. Go ahead and bolt it all in… pretty much that is what its going to look like now… once you have it positioned crawl up under the car and mark the piping where it needs to be cut… MAKE SURE YOU LEAVE ROOM TO BOLT THE FILTER NECK ONTO!!! And triple check yourself unless you want to buy another pipe to start over… pic is below of example
PICTURE 7
[IMG] http://www.putFile.com/051002053095157.jpg[/IMG]
PICTURE 8
9. Cut the piping and reinstall in the same position… bolt on filter and YOUR DONE!!!!
PICTURE 9
[IMG] http://www.putFile.com/051002054060108.jpg [/IMG]
Now if you do this you better take pics!!! I want to see how everybody’s comes out and what they do different… here are some other random pics just incase you need a diff view or want to see more of it….
PICTURE 10
[IMG] http://www.putFile.com/051002051878432.jpg [/IMG]
PICTURE 11
[IMG] http://www.putFile.com/05100205536434.jpg[/IMG]
Last edited by cwsttu; 05-09-04 at 08:23 PM.
05-09-04 | 09:01 PM
#7
also, what kind of bends are those? mandrel, or regular ones that muffler shops use? its like a mandrel, but not the same, the od changes through the bend but ... you know what i mean.
also, what is the minemum od that is recommended because my autozone doesnt have that big of piping and has 2.5 inch flexible exhaust piping. is that to small, it will be from the filte to the afm, or i might build a box. who knows. maybee i will do a write up someday.
also, what is the minemum od that is recommended because my autozone doesnt have that big of piping and has 2.5 inch flexible exhaust piping. is that to small, it will be from the filte to the afm, or i might build a box. who knows. maybee i will do a write up someday.
Last edited by SirCygnus; 05-09-04 at 09:05 PM.
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05-09-04 | 09:20 PM
#8
Thread Starter
1.3L is not that small
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,470
Likes: 1
From: Nacogdoches Tx
they are mandrel bent.... and about the flexible piping.. i wouldnt use that cause i dont trust them much, they dont look as nice, and you will have a hard time holding the AFM up with a flimsy piece like that, plus i did this to rid of the ripples that deaden the sound and create turbulance in the stock piping
05-09-04 | 09:26 PM
#9
hm... but it aint going to hold up the afm though.
but you didnt state if that od piping os ok or restrictive.
also, its flexible exhaust piping. its not like it will melt or some shiut, what dont you like about it?
but you didnt state if that od piping os ok or restrictive.
also, its flexible exhaust piping. its not like it will melt or some shiut, what dont you like about it?
05-09-04 | 09:36 PM
#10
Thread Starter
1.3L is not that small
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,470
Likes: 1
From: Nacogdoches Tx
i dont think you will notice a difference between using od or mandrel so i would say od is fine for the intake but i would not recomend it for the exhaust on the other hand cause you will notice a diff between the two.... and about the flexible piping i dont like the look of it and a long time ago i had to use some for a quick fix and it ripped to easy, maybe the kind you are looking at is better than what i bought but i have a dislike for them now.... im not saying you shouldnt use it but im saying i wouldnt use it if it were me
05-09-04 | 10:21 PM
#11
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
From: Edmonton, AB
What you guys need for the washer fluid is one like mine. My 86 GX (Canadian) has the washer fluid one the drivers side. Its right infront of the one Coil pack and the tube goes down into the area infront of the tire.
05-09-04 | 10:50 PM
#12
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,255
Likes: 0
From: fl
i just rigged my own CAI with some of that flexible intake hose from autozone. the accordian folds have to make a fair amount of turbulance, but i used jb weld to smooth out the transitions on the couplers. when i find a good alluminum pipe ill sub that in but in the meen time i too have cold air. the only upside to the s5 if that the MAF is lightenough you dont even have to have a bracket for it, get tho hoses streched out right and itll hang in the air no prob.
. the only upside to the s5 if that the MAF is lightenough you dont even have to have a bracket for it, get tho hoses streched out right and itll hang in the air no prob.
05-10-04 | 03:38 AM
#13
I'm a boost creep...
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 15,608
Likes: 8
From: Auckland, New Zealand
Originally posted by cwsttu
6. Ok now for the piping… the first pipe needs to be 11 inches long with a hole in the upper end for the BAC hose if you have one… just cut the pipe the proper length and drill a hole and your done for that piping. Just find a hose that is long enough and your BAC is taken care of
6. Ok now for the piping… the first pipe needs to be 11 inches long with a hole in the upper end for the BAC hose if you have one… just cut the pipe the proper length and drill a hole and your done for that piping. Just find a hose that is long enough and your BAC is taken care of
Otherwise, good job.
05-10-04 | 04:13 AM
#14
Thread Starter
1.3L is not that small
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,470
Likes: 1
From: Nacogdoches Tx
lol i know what you mean... im still trying to find a grommet that will fit the hose and fit in the hole i made for the BAC.... i have mine taped up really well to where its not leaking air... im open to ideas on what else i can use besides grommets
05-10-04 | 09:53 AM
#17
Originally posted by jthompson02
Have you or anyone else had a problem with water getting in the intake when it rains? And if you did what did you fo to prevent it from happening ?
Have you or anyone else had a problem with water getting in the intake when it rains? And if you did what did you fo to prevent it from happening ?
05-10-04 | 12:56 PM
#18
Thread Starter
1.3L is not that small
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,470
Likes: 1
From: Nacogdoches Tx
this has been discussed pretty in depth... water does not just go uphill and agan i have driven in lots of hard rain and whatnot with this setup on both the rx7 and previous cars... heres a thread that talk about it more...
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=289641
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=289641
05-10-04 | 01:11 PM
#19
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,666
Likes: 1
From: here.
here's my take:
1: water doesnt flow uphill. (water cant get itself into the intake system)
2:hold a vaccuum over a puddle of water......see how close you have to get to suck inwater....your intake isnt gonna suck that hard.
3: IF by the unusual conditions, SMALL amounts of water passes through your filter....only thing it can damage is the AFM...
i dont think anyone will have to worry about using this setup.
1: water doesnt flow uphill. (water cant get itself into the intake system)
2:hold a vaccuum over a puddle of water......see how close you have to get to suck inwater....your intake isnt gonna suck that hard.
3: IF by the unusual conditions, SMALL amounts of water passes through your filter....only thing it can damage is the AFM...
i dont think anyone will have to worry about using this setup.
05-10-04 | 02:07 PM
#22
meh
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 801
Likes: 0
From: Tallahassee
On a motorcycle forum, a guy fabbed up brackets to use a cone filter that protrudes from the carb area. His K&N supplier also sold some kind of sleeve that fitted over the filter to keep off rain, and the people who have used it said they didn't notice any changes in performance with the sleeve on (some kind of fabric thing with a draw string). Maybe someone could find those appropriate to the filter we would use on our cars?
