Any answers would help....

 

is your car lowered? if not your rear toe bushings are probably worn out. if your car is lowered you probably need a rear camber link. and maybe the bushings too.

either that or your toe is way off, when was the last time you had an alingment?

 

The car is not lowered. I don't know when the last time the car was aligned. It wasn't within the past 20K(when the last owner had it).

 

get alignment, wheel balance all of that noise and see if that fixes the problem. And it does it on all tires? or which ones? check camber and stuff. If none of this works ask us again and I can give you a more detailed explanation of what to do.
Jeff

 

Same as TURBOFAST87.......Also have you considered that maybe your rear shocks are as dead as as a doornail???? That in itself will ruin tires. Also when you get the wheel alignment, make sure they checked and adjusted the rear toe alignment. I went to a Firestone dealership a little over a year ago with my n/a to get aligned. When he finished the showed me a printout that showed my rear toe was off. He told me that there was no adjustment for rear toe and I should go to some frame alignment shop to have it corrected. Just bit my tongue, paid the bill and went home and did it myself to the best of my ability. So, I'm saying beware! I went back to Firestone this year with my 87turbo with much more success. When he was through the guy who did the alignment was a real talker and he mentioned how he had to adjust the rear toe. Depends on the person. Anyway, that 87turbo had the deadest shocks imaginable and that was a major contributor of the inside wear of the tires. Plus of course the rear toe was off.

 

It only does it on the rear tires. How can I tell if the rear shocks are dead? I'm broke now, so I have to wait to get all that checked out. Have to fix my oil leak and change my fuel filter(i don't how to do this), before that....

 

chances are it's worn out rear toe steer bushings or wrong rear toe.

 

If only the middle part of your tire worn that means the tyires are overinflated. if only the sides they underinflated.

 

yeah... and if only one side is worn it's an susp. prob...

 

which I don't have money for....I want to get a whole Tokico set-up....

 

I said susp. not shocks, get an alingment and check the rear toe. if that is ok then your rear toe bushings are probably gone.

 

exactly what the rest of them said
jeff

 

oh, ok....i still want to redo the suspension....Tokico struts, springs, shocks....yada yada yada

 

What everybody above said is possible and probably true. I just happen upon this site today, I had lost track of it, and here is an article on shocks. http://home.rmci.net/panther/shocks.htm Note what he says about his dead shocks and tire wear. To check the shocks for completly daid condition you'd have to remove the shock from the spring using a spring compressor. I did a complete shock replacement on the 87turboIi, with Tokico shocks, and all the old shocks, when remove from the spring, could be compressed and absolutly no return of the rod to full extension. Dead shock cause that car to have inner wear on both rear tires. Screwed the springs too. That said what Scott said could be very much the case too. Also on my car the right rear lateral link was put in by Richard Head, and he had greased the rear *tie rod end* when he put it together which resulted in not being able to tighten the nut on the tie rod end which resulted in SLOP, which resulted in toe out. So my problem was wear caused by that and the daid shocks and springs.

 

I had my friend in the car to tell me what was wrong. I drove it, then he drove it. He says that the shocks are fine. I'm leaning away from believing him anymore on advice he gives me about my car. The suspension just hit so damn HARD that I'm kicking myself in the *** for not listening to you people....sorry. Now I know where to come for all my advice....HERE!!!! Thanks people.

 

The issue is inner tread is wearing pre-maturely. It could be from the rear toe excessively opposite of pigeon toed, but not likely. This is most probably a Camber issue and most common on Verts due to extra weight. Extra negative camber is good for cornering, but bad for inner tire wear.

Stock, the rear camber isn't adjustable. But you can buy a rear camber adjuster that tilts the subframe adjusting the camber on both wheels at the same time. I had this exact problem. Replaced the springs with new stock ones to get ride of some of the excessive negative camber. But, the most important cure WAS the rear camber adjuster I bought from Racing Beat (demonspeed, this reminds me ). Installed it set at eyeball specs. Then took my car for a 4 wheel alignment with a extra copy of the instructions to had to the tech.

Never a problem since.

 

Price on the camber adjuster? I'll end taking it to KD to get it done anyway. BTW, I called to make an appointment for full-tech inspection and compression check. The earliest date that Dave had was Feb. 11. I hope she can make it until then....

 

1) You should be able to get 2-3 fingers in between the tire and fender lip.&nbsp If it's lowered (aftermarket springs, bad shocks, etc.) then it's excessive camber due to the drop.&nbsp A rear camber adjust bar will fix this - Racing Beat and Ground Control both make them.

2) If you drive very aggressively, it's the stupid DTSS doing it's job.&nbsp The DTSS changes toe-in/out which under heavy cornering loads, and all FC's driven very hard all wear the insides quickly.&nbsp Toe changes eats the insides a lot faster than excessive negative camber, counter to what most people think.&nbsp There is nothing you can do except slow down or replace the DTSS bushing with (Racing Beat) DTSS toe eliminator bushings for $40 a pair - be warned, the labor on this mod is STUPID!





-Ted

 

Also, try the Mazdatrix web site. They sell several brands of
rear camber adjusters. But, my vote goes to the Racing Beat one.

As to installation, its wayyyy simple. Two bolts and a jack is all you need. Oh yeah, and a 12MM & 14mm socket and open end wrench. Oh yeah, and about 30 minutes (cumulative during football halftimes).