Hey guys, I've had this same setup for a couple of months now but like everyone else's complaint, the Summit Racing RPM switch sucks!!! I actually returned my first one thinking that it was bad and I realized that it was actually ok. At the lowest DIP setting (2K I think), the ligh turns green at around 5500 RPM on mine. I'll try to play around with the pot that you guys are talking about. In the next month or 2, I will have a fully functioning "Turbocharged Electronic 6-port Activated NA"

 

You just answered your own question. As previously mentioned, the phillips head fine tuning screw adjustment had a Major role In lowering to the desired rpm despite having the DIP Switches set at It's lowest point.

Besides, that RPM Switch from Sumitt, Is backed by a lifetime guarantee. Not bad, eh?

 

I think this is way cool, don't get me wrong...I'm all for ingenuity but this is all in effort to keep you low-end power right?? With wired 6 ports there isn't any difference in midrange and top end pull compared to the airpump activation or electronic activation. I'd be anxious to try a setup like this but the thought of taking apart my 6pi system is a lil overwhelming...my actuators are wired open and I know there is a lot of labor involved in taking it apart and cleaning along with fitting the electronics for it to work right. Anyone thinking of a FULL write up??

 

Wiring them open sucks dude. For you to do this It's either they don't open on their own or you have a preconceived Idea that your car will run better with them open with your described fashion. https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...light=argument

Write Up? It's right here. You can't get more detailed than this thread. What did you want, pictures?

 

but open is open... I realize it's a less ideal way of making peak power but it should produce the same results...no?? My actuator rods are wired open btw, car makes good power and the pulleys/light alum flywheel keep my low end response.

 

He didn't do this for PEAK power. He did it to keep his low end. The problem with the factory way on the 84-88 cars is that the car can be under load at less than 3800 rpm or wherever they open. Under load the sleeves will rotate open. This can hurt power if they are open too soon. Doesn't apply to 89-91 cars though. A benefit on all the years is that he got rid of the airpump and still has control. Even better yet it is at whatever rpm desired. Great idea.

WIRING open the actuators is worthless from a performance standpoint. There is absolutely NO gain but there are losses down low. If they aren't going to turn anymore then take the actuator rods out, fill in the holes, and glue radiused sleeves in the open position.

I personally don't have the actuation system anymore and I like it but my car is also a toy. I applaud this form of 6 port activation and would definitely use it if I ever decided to go back to working actuators. Great mod!

 

I agree, this is a great NA mod and very trick!! I just wanted to make sure I wasn't sacraficing top-end with my setup...I wired them a couple years ago when the downpipe/racepipe was jigged/flanged and I took the airpump out. I would consider the mod for my own car but I'll be converting to a TII motor in a few months (hopefully) Plus, I'm sure I'd need help from the boys in the shop on this one haha

 

One can continuously prove that the wire open method Is more benificial In one way or another but I want to steer away from that. I stated my opinion on this already, Infact, several times. (Remember, It's just an opinion).

This thread was started so s4 na owners, whom have gave up, didn't even know they stopped working or even ask themselves "what are 6 ports?", can gain the ability to revamp their hidden Auxilliary Ports from the dark.

I have seen many methods, some valid, some not In total control and some plain worthless but I could say that this setup Is not only Independant from factory settings but customized to your cars present status. Whether It be stock, mild or wildly modded you could tailor It to your cars present state rather than the stock arrangement.

 

FWIW, you could still keep your stock Air Pump for emissions purposes and still use the electric set up for strictly Auxilliary Ports. But In my case, I was able to rid the Air Pump, Air Control Valve and the Split Air Pipe.

 

i dont know if this is going too far for your system or not, but to prevent overrunning the air pump, you could use a pressure switch to run the pump up to enough air pressure to open the ports, then clamp it with a solenoid. the pressure would still be there to keep the ports open, but you would only need to run the pump long enough to push them open. which is what, 1 second or so? less probably. there are simple timer circuits that would allow for the activation of the clamp 1 second after the air pump is activated. tunable, too i might add. under the desired rpm, both circuits would be open. once you reach port opening rpm, the air pump would run for 2 seconds, and the solenoid would activate after 1. do they make one way solenoids? where you could just activate them at the same time, and it would let pressure into the line, but not back out untill power is cut? it sounds reasonable. any comments?

 

One step further... Add a small reservoir (pop-can size?). When ignition is turned on, the elec. compressor pumps the can up to desired pressure, pressure switch with appropriate hysteresis shuts off compressor. As air is depleted from the tank, pressure drops to low set point of pressure switch, compressor starts and re-charges the can.

To add even more complexity, pump up to high pressure (100 psi or so), and use a regulator to drop outlet pressure to that required to drive actuators. Pressurizing the can to that high pressure would provide much more energy storage, so the compressor would run infrequently. Essentially a miniature version of your shop air compressor.

 

To me, the above Is an overkill! My biggest concern was that the Sleeves would snap open creating a momentarily jerk. A bleeder valve was suggested by NZ, but I found It wasn't needed which would have been used to remedy this potential hurtle should that have been the case.

 

Certainly is overkill! You may have no choice but to incorporate something similar though, if you run your car hard enough to keep that compressor running at high duty cycles. Do you have a relief valve or regulator in the system now to control maximum pressure output?

I think the idea is fabulous. I think I'll give it a try with one of those tiny 12vdc walmart air compressors. I'll need to go the overkill route to drop the max pressure down, as these little things put out 200 psi or more. Don't want to blow the diagphram in the actuator!

For those considering Megasquirt EFI, it would be relatively easy to use one of the spare pins on the CPU to create your own rpm switch within the controller. That eliminates the need for a separate rpm switch, and with a bit of code work you could re-program the rpm setpoin on the fly!

 

as a means of slowing down the speed with which the sleeves are turned, you could slowly ramp the airpump up to the full voltage to provide a cushioning effect, alternatively, some of the homemade boost controller guys have a storage tank plumbed (well tee'd would be ok) into the line to the wastegate, and this could work as well. the idea is pressurizing the small volume of air in the vacuum line between the airpump (or turbo) and the sleeve actuator (or wastegate actuator) doesnt take very long. if you increase the volume it has to pressurize, it will take slightly longer (depending on how large your tank is) and thereby cushion the port opening. just another idea for you

oh, the reason the turbo guys do this is to avoid wastegate creep. the wastegate actuator is basically a spring. it doesnt magically go from being closed to suddenly fully open. it will open a little bit more as more boost pressure is applied. this will slow down your turbo spool-up. so if you delay the boost signal to the wastegate actuator, you have quicker spool-up on the turbo.

 

Having an Air compressor that has a capacity of of 250psi Is way to extreme! Remember, a few psi Is needed for the Sleeves to do their thing.

I searched through ebay, under 12v air compressor but was unable to see the partcular one I bought. I'll post a link, should he have one listed.

I haven't Incorporated the use of a Bleeder Valve or Regulator. Why? I really don't see the need for that. Atleast right now. I figure that If the Air Compressor fails b'c of extreme temps due to overuse I may due just that. As mentioned before, I have a LED Light spliced In the Ground, of the RPM Switch. This will let me know If the setup Is failing. Until than, I'm happy...

 

youll never know if it wont work till something breaks.
thats what i always say.

kill it! keeeeeeeeeel it!!!!!

=)

 

I'm told, through Sumitt, where I purchased the Switch from, that the Switch Is capable of handling 2amps. Anymore, would result In damage of the circuit within the Switch Itself. So the use of a Relay Is mandatory should you follow my setup!

 

These little walmart/Cdn Tire compressors can fit in the palm of your hand, and cost $10. If yours if from an airhorn application, it will put out far more than the 2-3 psi you need as well. That should really be checked before you blow the diaphrams out of those actuators. Just stick a pressure gauge on the outlet, and power it up. This is the pressure the acuators will see once they reach full travel, unless a bypass or regulator is used.

As far a control:

1.) A flow restrictor on the outlet of the compressor will slow the flow of air to the actuators, delaying their operation. It will NOT reduce the maximum pressure the actuators see once they are fully extended.

2.) A pressure regulator will limit the downstream pressure, and save those poor diaphrams in the actuators.

You may not need the first one, if the effect of flipping the sleeves open rapidly doesn't caust drivability problems. The second one really should be looked at unless your compressor really does only put out a couple psi (but what a useless compressor that would be!).

 

My Air Compressors output Is 7-8psi not 250! By far, hardly NOT enough to "blow the diaphrams out of those actuators".

 

Not trying to cause you grief here, just mentioning a concern of possible component damage. I teach industrial fluid power at college, and have used a variety of pneumatic components for in-class demonstrations, including the little $10 walmart compressor! It will indeed put out 250 psi if the outlet is blocked, although I would not consider that a continuous rating.

If you have checked the pressure output of that compressor with the outlet port closed, and only saw 7-8psi, then there must be an internal regulator or relief valve in operation. What's the original application of this unit? What size is the outlet port?

 

The original application of the Air Compressor was/Is Intended to be used as a source for an Air Horn. The size of the outlet port Is 6mm.

In order to have a continous transition, I hooked up a hose barb, half way from the Air Compressor to the Actuator Metal Hose Input. In esscense, I have a 6mm diameter hose that Is 8'' long, followed by a hose barb which Is connected to a 3' hose, which Is 3mm In diameter. Remember, I have the Air Compressor wedged b'n the side panel and the Charcoal Cannister which snugs the Compressor tightly.

Having It this way, I was able to have a smooth transition. And as as a byproduct, I was able to go from wide to narrow (hose) creating less air pressure or more restriction to the Auxilliary ports so they wouldn't snap open to create a potential jerk, which would work against my setup...

 

So can someone answer me this for sure: On a series five they use a solenoid and airpump air. Do these aux actuators snap open? And if not, why would they not snap open?????? Do you know for SURE?

 

Great info! I bought the damn Summit switch and it didn't seem to work. Now I'll go outside and play with the dipswitches and the adjustment pot.

I was originally using a T-Vacuum hose adapter and it seems to cut the pressure enough that the sleeves don't snap open and close well also...

The T was at pep boys and designed to be cut to hose size on all 3 legs... In other words it tapers down for various hose sizes.. works fine for the air compressor hose (Harbor freight sells an airhorn with relay brackets and hoses for $17, cheapest deal I found for it!) and the 6th port hose and I left the bottom leg of the vacuum "T" open to relieve the high pressure to avoid damaging the port actuators

 

I don't know for sure but I have an Idea. In fact you mentioned It earlier In the Thread. The fact that our Air Pumps are 11yrs old and older, would lend the possibility of Air Pumps not compressing out the same amount of pressure as opposed to a brand new one. Or something like that.

FWIW, I have seen on a s5 the Actuators rotating pretty fast. As opposed to my previous setup that Included a RPM Switch, old EGR Solenoid and a 3mm hose tapped In to the hose b'n the Air Pump and Air Control Valve.

 

You are better off to us a 2 way barb going from the Air Compressor directly to the Metal Hose that activate the Auxilliary Ports. I still don't think you'll damage or blow the Acutuators to smithereens. What was the Air Compressors air output?