Oh, I suppose... it IS a popular topic!

Brad

 

Sweet job man... approx how much HP will this make?

 

Not really.
if you have the drain IN the oil, and not above the level, you will have backpressure from the oil in the pan preventing proper drainage..

If you ask me, you're already treading on thin ice with this conversion, so put in a turbo timer in the oil circuit.

This is somthing you should do anyway.

It would force cool oil and ALSO keep the pressure on the oild returning to the pan under more pressure that the submerged oil bung you welded in.

No sense in installing the turbo timer AND making a new drain bung.

just run the turbo timer like an oil pump.

then let it do the turbo timer "thing" after you turn off the car as usual.


This saves a step AND gets you ANOTHER reason to install the timer like all turbos should have.

 

It would be nice if a mod cleaned up this thread and removed all of the pointless replies, including this one.

 

Yeah, um, a turbo timer would have nothing to do with the oil return. If my return does not work, it will be a simple matter to make a new one in the front cover, or somewhere else in the pan. A turbo timer has nothing to do with at all. If anything, I will know my oil return is not working because of excessive smoke from the turbo (oil getting bunched up at the return and being forced by the seals). If that happens, I will make a better drain.

Oh, and I am planning to post lots more pictures on Monday. By that time, the intercooler will be installed. I would have been posting more pictures in the last few weeks, but I've just been doing little things, and have not had much time to work...

 

WTF???
A turbo timer is just a simple electronic device that interrupts the ingnition wires in the steering column, and delays shutting the car off after you pull the car out for a specified amount of time, to prevent hot oil from sitting in the turbo. It circulates oil via normal engine operation- just by keeping it running for a minute. It has nothing to do with pumps or anything like that!! Some have a boost meter on them, but thats as close as they get to attaching mechanically to the engine!!!

Ever look at the front cover on an N/A?? It already has the flange fitting- it's just not tapped out. They used the same mold for the TII and N/A- they just didn't drill out the hole, and tap the threads. Something I will be doing.

Aaron- It would be nice if you had some way to obverve the oil flow once the turbo is in... a peice of clear tube maybe... (maybe not- probably wouldn't see anything.

You could always just run the engine with the drain hose disconnected and running into a clean bucket- and see how much oil comes out in a 10 second period....

 

it was my understanding that a turbo timer ran oil through the turbo after the car was off, like a pre luber, but for cooling purposes.

If this isnt how they work, then im sure that it would be better than running the WHOLE CAR for a few minutes.

just pump oil..

this is why i thought the TT would work.

 

you put the turbo on the non-turbo engine, holy ****, scroll down those pics dude., its ****** tripin me out!

 

Here are the second set of pictures on my NA turbo install. The first set can be found in the sticky thread at the top of this forum. Current completion date looks to be the end of May or beginning of June. Descriptions follow pictures when required. These are in chronological order.


TII injectors cleaned and painted. Had a local diesel shop clean them for $25 a piece, then I simply painted them with black gloss spray paint to keep them from rusting.


New oil cooler lines. I had a local hydraulic shop make me up a new set with some stainless braided hose and the original fittings. They did it in 2 days for $80, and they are lifetime guaranteed not to leak. They say they're good for 500 PSI.


Upper intake with throttle body mod, blocked off cold start and TII injectors


Cold start blockoff plate

 

Engine with silicon vacuum hose


Upper intake reinstalled, silicone vacuum hose.


Oil cooler with oil nipple installed.


Stainless oil cooler hoses installed. Note that they are slightly long, but seem to fit fine otherwise.

 

Oil cooler reinstalled. Note closeness of oil nipple to rad. Everytime I look at that, it seems like a bad idea. I may end up making some stainless braided hose with some AN fittings to replace that....I may have the hydraulic hose place make me a nice looking hose.




Notch in frame (inner fender) so the wastegate will fit.




ACV blockoff plate. It's a standard plate made of 3mm thick steel. Note that there is a white section marked to be cut off. The compressor of the turbo sits so close that the plate must be modified.

 

ACV blockoff plate, finished and painted


ACV mount on engine. Note the new hole I needed to drill and tap in the lower intake. The compressor and turbine housings of the turbo do not allow space to use the existing lower holes on the intake. A new hole had to be drilled so the ACV plate could be secured properly.


Blockoff plate installed.


A piller trim removed so boost guage and guage pod could be installed.


Boost guage capillary tubing through firewall.

 

Various views of boost guage tubing. It connects to a T that connects to a vacuum nipple on the intake. This T will also connect to the BOV valve.


Notch in frame reinfoced and painted.

 

Various views of boost guage. The 2nd hole will be used for an pyrometer (EGT).


Brackets cut away under bumper to make room for the FMIC. A stock TII intercooler is being front mounted. Eventually, I will probably upgrade it. The horns will have to be relocated.


Closeup of turbo showing how wastegate interfers with the inner fender.

 

Various views of front mounted TII intercooler.








Next on the list is to bend the piping to plumb the turbo to the intercooler, and the intercooler to the upper intake. I will be renting a pipe bender next weekend. I am using 2" exhaust tubing, stainless steel of course. I will also make a downpipe for the turbo at the same time, using the same 2" tubing. Next, the BOV will be mounted to the intercooler piping. Then the water and oil lines plumbed to the turbo....

After that it's a matter of replacing the fuel pump (using the stock FD pump) and installing the S-AFC. Oh, and of course rerouting some water and air lines I removed in the process of everything.

Once those things are done, I should be able to drive the car again, but not necessarily under boost...I need to get the fuel tuned right before I can boost past a few PSI.

 

Aaron, I am soo effin jealous. Sure this is a difficult and probably frustating challenge at times but I can imagine how rewarding its goona be when you're done. Keep the updates coming.

 

Awesome pics dude, I'm still gathering parts right now. I've been talking to some people that say it is possible to modify the lower t2 intake manifold so you wouldn't need to cut the frame ect... but If I can't go that route what did you use to cut the frame.

-Zeff

 

Sweet pictures
Be sure to give us more. I know I can't get enough

 

I can't imagine how modifying the intake would prevent the need to notch the frame....Perhaps making a custom manifold that would lift the turbo up more will help. That would eliminate the need to use the stock TII turbo manifold...You could also modify the wastegate, or eliminate the turbo's internal wastegate and use an external one.

 

Aaron, it looks nice and well though out. Good job. ONe thing bothers me though..why did you elect to cut teh frame of the car, rather than to just move the wastegate actuator out and up some, and weld onto the rod accordingly? Seems like that woulda been a much easier and quicker solution.

 

I should have re-worded it I guess. I meant using the TII upper and lower intake manifold but you would need modify it to match up to the 6 ports correctly. With this setup you wouldn't need to cut the frame because you would have the space. Within the month I'll have a better idea of exactly how to modify it. I want to get intouch with Angel guard racing but he hasn't responded to my PM's. He has done the mod successfully. If I can get some more info on how to match the ports up I'll go that route so all I'd need would be the lower intake and a upper t2 fuel rail.

 

I stood and started ofr 45 minutes trying to figure out how to move the wastegate, and I just couldn't make it fit. No matter where I put the actuator, I couldn't get it in a position that satisfied me...So I decided to modify the frame. Other's have used hammers, but I could not get the leverage or space to swing (a 2.5 pound hammer). So I pulled out the Sawzall, cut, then welded in reinforcements.

 

first let me start by saying great job so far very clean. second why are you useing tha crappy little line they give you with that boost gauge you should use some of that tubeing that you are using for vacume line instead. i couldn't get any realy good readings or responce with mine when i had the little tubing went to the 1/4" and it held up better. any way food for thought, there is prob. a good reason you used that stuff

james

 

Looking good so far! Man... what tight quarters to work in!
Do you have a BOV yet?
I just picked up a Bosch one one E-bay for cheap- says it's good for over 12psi, which is fine with me- I can't go over that anyways!

And why in the heck are you going with a 2" downpipe????
Geez, even the factory one is 2 1/2 isn't it?

If you are trying to keep boost down, I have heard that restricting the intake gives a bitter "feel".

Hey- that shop that cleaned your injectors- Is it in London??
How did they actually clean them? Dissasemble them? Ultrasonic? Or did they just run cleaner through them?

Keep it coming!
This should be a sticky too.. just to see the progression!
Dan

 

I was able to purchase an Apex'i BOV fairly cheaply.

Yeah, I need to make a better downpipe...I will probably go with 2.5" over the 2".

The injector shop is Roy's Diesel in London. They were very eager to do everything, since they had just purchased their gas injector cleaning jig a month before and had never really given it a workout. The cleaning included the actual cleaning, new rubber, and spray testing.

blu_gxl: I used the tubing that came with the boost guage since all the fittings were perfect, and it is significantly easier to route that thin tubing than it is the thick silicon vacuum hose.