OMP Pump

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Old 03-23-06 | 02:19 AM
  #26  
doridori-rx7's Avatar
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awash with hypocrites... your all up in MY face about not reading posts.. I've said already that I use BOTH!! block side oil ports with pre mix. pre mix is a much better option to the manifold ports .. however I don't believe that pre mix alone is a solution, building for robustness is far better then building to the minimum. Then again it's probably one of the reasons why I don't have motors that I build blowing with regularity like some people do..



would you buy a brand new car that you had to pour oil in with the gas like a 2 stroke dirtbike? I didnt think so.
?? if it happened to be the reccomendation or requirement of the car and I wanted that car then Yes I would. Just like you would warm up a turbo car and let it idle to cool down for the turbos health..( before they had turbo timers ) and just like you change oil every 5000km..
Old 03-23-06 | 03:36 AM
  #27  
RETed's Avatar
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Originally Posted by doridori-rx7
Then again it's probably one of the reasons why I don't have motors that I build blowing with regularity like some people do..
Really?
#1 Torrington bearing slipped, friend's FC
#2 Hit overboost fuel-cut twice, my FC
#3 OPR fell off, OPR was torque to spec, my FC
#4 OPR not installed, friend's FC

So care to back up your claims?


-Ted
Old 03-24-06 | 07:33 AM
  #28  
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cmon guys, go somewhere and fight it out. whoever has more bruises is wrong.

seriously, there are merits to both methods. bottom line is, if you get the oil in there, youre going to be ok. doesnt really matter how you go about doing it.

pat
Old 09-18-06 | 02:30 AM
  #29  
black93RX7's Avatar
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old topic but..

Is there anything that needs to be done to the front cover if you are blocking off the OMP?

Or can u just block it off?
Old 09-18-06 | 09:05 AM
  #30  
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nope, just block it off. by the way i have waterjet cut blockoff plates for 20B if anyone is interested....

you should remove the mop injectors from the rotorhousings though.... replace them with a metric setscrew...IIRC it is M8x1.25, but dont quote me on that.
Old 09-18-06 | 01:37 PM
  #31  
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10mm x 1.25 You probably shouldn't use a set screw. Some automatics had really short bolts that look like bellhousing bolts in every way except for the length, to give you an idea. They're perfect for sealing the oil injector holes. The only problem is coming up with a set.
Old 09-18-06 | 07:19 PM
  #32  
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problem with using a real bolt is that I was afraid to tighten them much for fear of putting a dimple in the rotorhousing surface....with a setscrew that wouldnt be a problem

of course if you found a short enough bolt it would be even better, but good luck.
Old 09-18-06 | 10:37 PM
  #33  
brap-brap-brap
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just close the thread already.
Old 09-18-06 | 11:04 PM
  #34  
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someone had some bitch flakes for lunch...
Old 09-19-06 | 04:50 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by patman
someone had some bitch flakes for lunch...

i agree..WTF is up with him?
Old 09-21-06 | 03:40 PM
  #36  
RX-7 From Heaven's Avatar
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just trying to elaborate on the question that was posted on here first, i would recommend going with a microtech 12 series ecu and using the stock 20b oil metering pump. the microtech is a great ecu to use for the 20b, and to make it better you can use the stock coils with it (not that i recommend that since six 20b bosch coils will cost you 300 from atkinsrotary.com, and it will give you a better performing oil system as well). there's my two cents. good luck with your car dude....
-erik
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