Just wondering what most are doing with the omp? Dont know if I should use it or premix.

 

Premix>OMP

It would be a bit of hassel to use the stock OMP over blocking it off and just premixing. Premixing is also generally better for your motor anyways.

 

..? few years back at 7 stock Atkins was saying that premix was NOT as good as the OMP, in particular the housing port. The premix will coat the rotor but not provide sufficent oiling for the apex seals to sweep..

omiting the manifold oiling and using premix to replace that is however something I do.

 

my motor didn't have one, so i bought one and the adapter to mix in 2-stroke, cant remember the website for the adapter, but its the best option in my opinion.

 

I think rotary aviation makes the adaptor you are talking about. either them or atkins rotary

 

The more I think about it, the more that makes since. To add, the crank case oil doesn't burn so well so it leaves a better film on the housings to better protect the apex seals.

 

That would be RA!


Power Hungry, you should be able to use the S4 front cover and run the S4 mechanical OMP. I don't see why it shouldn't work.

 

Then you start running into carbon buildup issues, i personally think that premix is the only way to go. I belive the TCW-3 premix is formulated just for this reason.

 

Not necessarily. The type of fuel you use makes the most difference in carbon build-up. There are some really shitty fuels out there.

 

add a water injection system ( if it's feaseable) that should steam clean most carbon deposits you may get..

 

That's a real stupid thing to say, but then again, it's not surprising coming from that source...


-Ted

 

Acosta recomended premix so that's what I opted to do.

 

After 65,000 miles (roughtly) of running TCW-3, 2-stroke oil at a ratio of 25 ml. per gallon of gasoline, the interior of my motor was extremely clean and showed almost no wear.

Here's what Kevin Landers found:

"As suspected, you blew apex seals...on the front rotor. That housing is
toast, it has a big long deep gouge in it, and is not useable for any
purpose other than a paperweight. The rotor is also damaged and will
need replacement. FYI the breakage was not due to
wear, as the apex seals had very little wear on them...it was a
forcible break, i.e. detonation of some sort. <snip>

Everything else in the engine looks great including the other 2
rotorhousings...they have no significant wear at all."

So, I'm going to continue using the pre-mix after the re-build.

 

...next time I'm talking to Atkins to tell him you mentioned that.. I'm sure he'd LOVEd to hear your ' proof' but given the source I don't expect to get one beyond your regular useless drivel. idiot.. I'll be out that way for vacation soon, maybe you can let me know how stupid you think I am to my face.. bet that would be a treat huh.. having to do it to someone face to face instead of on the net..wow! excitment.

 

^ Dude I don't think Ted was directing that comment at you. I think he was replying towards Atkins themselves because you quoted them.

 

Oh, I don't consider them worth to be an authority...

Go dig up the thread where Dan Atkins claims the FC turbo 13BT has *MORE* duration than the FC non-turbo 13B 6-port.

I claimed the 6-port motor had more duration.
It's stated straight from the Mazda FSM.
He STFU pretty damn quick after that.

Still think they KNOW EVERYTHING?

And dude, your past history isn't the cleanest either.
I take everything that comes out of your mouth with a grain of salt and a lot of black pepper...useless.


-Ted

 

your problems with atkins and me and anyone else who *gasp* dares to question your self imposed 'top of the heap/king of the hill' opinion of yourself is ALWAYS wrong. Fact is my statment IS very valid. But because I take one aspect away from his seminar as very useable now you seem to think I think Atkins is the Dogs bullocks? get off it, I mentioned him because he IS a credible source with allot of 'time in' on these motors in various applications.

The ammount of oil passing from the injectors HAS to hit the rotor face.. where's the oil for the apex sweep coming from then? nowhere.. what little bleed from the rotor face you get is hardly adequate to keep the housing-apex interface lubricated.

 

Save your Atkins *** kissing for later.
It doesn't work on me or this thread.


Why don't you go read some of the SAE papers that Mazda wrote-up on rotary engines.
The intake charge gets compressed on the trailing edge of the "combustion chamber.
It gets squeezed back there.
Wow, right where the apex seal contacts the rotor housing - how convenient!
Not all of the intake charge gets combusted - this is especially true of AFR's that boosted rotary engines run at.
Pre-mix is designed to lubricate after combustion - even more combustion.

Hey, if you like lubricating your apex seals the inferior way, that's your choice.


-Ted

 

This is not true dude. Did you not hear about the results here from Attila the Fun's post on the first page?


This is a 20b with aftermarket ecu. This usually means the stock OMP was not funcional. If the remix protection wasn't there, why is his engine in such prestine condition after 65,000 miles?

 

Dumb luck?

You're correct that my OMP is not functional. I'm sorry; I should have mentioned that in my post.

FWIW, the Kudzu Racing team, as well as Spencer Racing, use pre-mix. That has to be considered an endorsement.

 

whatever, considering I've never bought anything from these people it's hardly *** kissing.. however if you consider listening to valid statements and defending those statements *** kissing, then that's your problem not mine.. btw Im still waiting on that invite to your shop when I'm out there....

If mazda thought that pre mix would be a better chioce then OMP then I'm pretty sure they would have dropped an expensive part like the OMP in favor of simple pre mix. But they didn't, maybe you in your self imposed 'technical leader of the rotary world' capacity you should be contacting Mazda and telling them the error of thier ways..

Some people don't actually agree with you, deal with it..

Pre mix oil has to somehow be compressed ( squeezed ) in the right direction ( of course it will always obey you and not move out in all directions on the face), then what does go in the right direction needs to then travel far enough in that specific direction to reach the apex seal point.. THEN it needs to CLIMB the apex seal in what you hope is an even pattern across the seal leading edge..
At least with the block side OMP ports I'm assured that it's always going to be coming out at that point in a proper pattern. Using the RA 2 stroke adaptor and -3 teflon lines removes ANY of the failues common with the OMP.

 

I don't remember you asking.
And I'm not stupid enough to get into a business which is a dead-end; there is not enough rotary owners who are willing to pay to support a shop that requires a minimum of $2000 / month just for the lease - I may be dumb, but I'm not stupid to throw myself into a money pit.


This shows your ignorance.
This has been debated before - do a search.
I just love how you like to label me with things I have never claimed to be.
Stop trying to insult me, cause it just makes you look more stupid.


Again, you show you ignorance on the matter.
Stop putting you foot in your mouth.

BTW, have you ever tried it?
I have and my experience shows there is absolutely zero lubrication problem to the internals seals.
That's good enough for me, regardless of what your ignorance claims.


-Ted

 

would you buy a brand new car that you had to pour oil in with the gas like a 2 stroke dirtbike? I didnt think so. Just because its on there from the factory doesnt mean that is usefull. Take the stock FC fuel cut "overboost protection". Yea, that was a GREAT idea

 

To add the average person doesn't do regular maintenance. There's no way people would remember to put oil in the tank. Hell my OMP doesn't work in my S5 and I forget sometimes and I know better.

 

Dude are you still not paying attention to anything people have posted in this thread. The example I gave you should prove it to you that pre-mix is effective. Again the 20b didn't have a functional OMP. The 20b made 350+ rwhp for 65,000 miles on premix. The engine blew for reasons not related to lubrication. The engine was torn down and the non damaged parts were still in pristine condition. Premix works so deal with that.