Hi Guys

I have a single turbo 20B FD.

The Engine modes are as follows

Large Street Port 20b
Rotor clearances and balancing done
Stock Mazda Rebuild Kit alongside with solid corner seals
Acquamist S1 Water Injection Kit with Race version pump
PWR Rad
Greddy/Trust Intercooler 3 Core
60mm Tial Wastegate
Water Jacket were done to the three housings
Engine has been doweled
1680 X 3 and 850s X 3
Eliminator Fuel Pump
Twin Plate AST Clutch
Greddy T88 34D Turbo
Twin Japanese Mocal Oil Coolers as my Mocal Oil Coolers were stolen!!!!
Motec M84 ECU with brand new wiring and sensors
Extreme Rotary Primary and Secondary Fuel Rail
Custom Oil Sump, holds 5 Liter plus Oil
Engine has been pushed back for a weight distribution purposes
Custom sub frame
Modified Prop shaft
Modified Power Plant
Kaaz 1.5 Super Q diff

Don't remember anything else on top of my head

I had a single turbo manifold on a car but, it gave up after my last racing adventure. The Car produced 520 on the FLY at 0.7 Bar a Boost and at only 6500 RPM. The rotors are designed to go up to 9000 RPM hence, I was very happy:. The reason we abort the dyno session was because, the AFR was reading on Boost somewhere at 14.5 . The clown (dyno operator) thought, it was a piston car!!! check this video on Youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xN86iGAcXbI

Anyway, I am glad the car never blew up and it being a rotary, it was a great relief to know that "with rotaries, there is no middle situation, either they are right or wrong, nothing will show up in future if something never happened on that time-correct me if I am wrong"

So, one night I went out with my friends and I floored the car, after five minutes of running, the car changed the sound and began to idle rough! I thought I done the engine, however, upon the doing the "puss, puss" compression test I discovered that the apex seals were intact and it was the manifold's welds which cracked:.

THIS MY THEORY and UNDERSTANDING
"I have a lambda which is installed in my car's down pipe and connected with the Motec ECU, when the exhaust gases started to release from the rear housing exhaust ports before reaching the Lambda sensor, IMOP, The Lambda signaled to the ECU that the car was running lean, hence, the ECU increased the fuel supply and the middle housing and rear housings plugs flooded-the front ones were fine"

I got the car checked over by the famous tuner here in London and he confirmed that the engine was fine.


The reason for this thread is to hear from some of you guys and take the most pertinent advise on board.

Now, what I want from my new manifold?

I like to do things once and forever lolll, in other words, I don't believe in cutting corners. Hence, I want a strong and most reliable manifold.

The metal fabricator I have here in the UK is very competent. However, it will be most helpful, if someone, gives me some advise regarding, the diameter of the manifold pipes which should be good for 1000hp engine , Positioning of turbo and 60mm Tial wastegate, Pipe lengths i.e. shall I run rear and front pipes equal? What material shall I use? and any other advise is welcome which I have missed out but bears an important information.

If you guys post some numbers (i.e. diameter of the pipe) here, it would be further helpful as I can discuss those numbers with my manifold builder further.

Cheers
Mir

 

Pics of the cooked manifold.

This manifold came from Australia:

 

 

Some pics of the flange(s) which attaches to the Housing exhaust ports.

 

 

Also, can you guys advise on the following;

Shall I keep the Greddy T88 34D turbo? or
Shall I change it and get the Borg Warner S475 turbo?

Cheers
Mir

 

You will need a T6 turbine housing for 1000rwhp. Stick with open volute regardless on the turbo flange.

 

No wonder you haven't posted pictures of your manifold up on MRC Syed. That would shame somebody terribly, it actually looks like it has been in a house fire.

 

build the manifold with inconel. same as f1 exhausts.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/20b-forum-95/20b-turbo-manifold-969238/

 

my beautiful manifold is now coated in 2200 deg JetHot lol

such beautiful welds too