My rx-7 is done with cup holders! And a 3-rotor semi p-port N/a setup, STOCK SUBFRAME

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Old 08-25-05 | 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by rarson
Damn, 310 lbs. That's awesome, does that include accessories too?
no that was without accessories, with accessories I'm guessing 345lbs

Originally Posted by Falcoms
speeking of accessories, I like the idler pully and mount that replaced the top mounted alternator, as well as the mounting for it where the A/C used to be. Also, did you keep the P/S just because of the noseheavyness? Another also, what did you do for front suspension mods to help it all work?
Nose heavyness?? What is that? Haha, this 3-rotor is still lighter than the stock 13b-rew that came out of it, and add in the fact I have no ABS, air pump, and no a/c, no intercooler, no wastegate, bov, piping it is probly as light as even a single turbo 13B. I cut alot of wieght off the 3-rotor, the stock intake weighed 50LBS!! My intake with filter and box wieghs 20lbs, the header is 20lbs, and is very long, the twin turbos with cast iron manifold weighed nearly 75lbs, the water pump is about 8lbs lighter, 13b-rew front cover saved 5lbs. It all adds up. I getting it weighed at a race shop, so we will find out then on bias. As for suspension RG on all four corners, and solid bushings, nothing special, handles like a two rotor, a dream to drive, no bump steer because, well, its still all factory placement.

Originally Posted by t-von
Be carefull with those Ls1 Rx7's. Their still going to have a big torque advantage however from a roll is a different storey.
I figured as much, I just dyno'd my car today and it put down 310 to the wheels, and 216 torque @7500 on a Mustang dyno. After 7500 I am getting mis-fire, maybe too low octane, or plugs. If I can correct that and hold out the 216ft-lbs to 8500 it will put down 349 hp. so I think considering the whole car is easily under 2650 lbs, I could give them a run for their money.

OH yeah, NOPR video'd the Dyno session on the first two pulls, so check back tonight for that, and the dyno chart.

Last edited by GtoRx7; 08-25-05 at 06:12 PM.
Old 08-25-05 | 09:20 PM
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here is a pic of the dyno graphs, two runs one is smoother up top than the other, both are cutting out bad past 7500rpms, I think it is the fuel pump, which is stock, so I put in a walbro and will test again tonight.
Attached Thumbnails My rx-7 is done with cup holders! And a 3-rotor semi p-port N/a setup, STOCK SUBFRAME-3-rotor-na-dyno.jpg   My rx-7 is done with cup holders! And a 3-rotor semi p-port N/a setup, STOCK SUBFRAME-3-rotor-na-dyno-2.jpg   My rx-7 is done with cup holders! And a 3-rotor semi p-port N/a setup, STOCK SUBFRAME-3-rotor-na-dyno-22.jpg   My rx-7 is done with cup holders! And a 3-rotor semi p-port N/a setup, STOCK SUBFRAME-3-rotor-na-dyno-11.jpg  

Last edited by GtoRx7; 08-25-05 at 09:29 PM.
Old 08-25-05 | 09:28 PM
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Yeah, it's got a hemi.
Old 08-25-05 | 09:29 PM
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Hey shm, check back at my post I added the other dyno run, and blury numbers
Old 08-25-05 | 09:31 PM
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is it 6000 or 8000 for peak horsepower on the 310 hp run?
Old 08-25-05 | 09:58 PM
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It is 8000rpms, only because after retarding the timming and adding fuel it somehow surged the torque for a quick second at the end of the run, you can see the torque come up a little at 8000rpms, but still much below 216 lb-ft
Old 08-25-05 | 11:13 PM
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I have a video, putfile hates me. can anyone host this?
Old 08-26-05 | 12:13 PM
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awesome setup man. car sounds mean as hell.
Old 08-26-05 | 01:37 PM
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Okay i got the video ready. It's hard to read the numbers on the computer in this small, low quality version, but luckily someone posted crystal clear pictures of the print out.. oh, wait...

http://media.putfile.com/LoganDynoSmall
Old 08-26-05 | 02:06 PM
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congrats on the projtec...i love how it idles...but i still prfer a strong V8..again though, good luck, and i hope u prove the greatness of rotor motors
Old 08-26-05 | 03:44 PM
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These #'s are still without the semi-p port manifold, right? If so, the motor has MORE hp up top!
Old 08-26-05 | 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by GtoRx7
here is a pic of the dyno graphs, two runs one is smoother up top than the other, both are cutting out bad past 7500rpms, I think it is the fuel pump, which is stock, so I put in a walbro and will test again tonight.


On your future run could you start earlier in the rpm range? I would like to see the torque output in that range when compared to the stock intake which has longer runners. The dyno sheet below is of an unopened stock block 20b NA with stock LIM & UIM.
Attached Thumbnails My rx-7 is done with cup holders! And a 3-rotor semi p-port N/a setup, STOCK SUBFRAME-20b-na-dyno-chart.jpg  
Old 08-26-05 | 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 88fc3sw/HX83
These #'s are still without the semi-p port manifold, right? If so, the motor has MORE hp up top!
Yes this is without the p-ports, still are capped off. I am impressed with the sideports, not sure how its getting so much torque, it just keeps going all the way to 7500, and then THE DAMN fuel starts cutting out. Oh well, I will dyno once more, after I solve the fueling/tunning issues, and pull it to 8500rpms.



Originally Posted by t-von
On your future run could you start earlier in the rpm range? I would like to see the torque output in that range when compared to the stock intake which has longer runners. The dyno sheet below is of an unopened stock block 20b NA with stock LIM & UIM.
I wish I could, I am having problems with the rpm trigger glitching real bad from 2600-3,250 I've tried everything to fix it, but its still there, figure it out someday.

Last edited by GtoRx7; 08-26-05 at 11:28 PM.
Old 08-27-05 | 12:08 AM
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Hey! Read your inbox!

I hope you'll come out to our drift event September 4th at Kil-Kare Dayton. I would love to ride!
Old 08-27-05 | 02:20 AM
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Wow, nice dyno #'s. Can't wait to see them with the PPorts opened up. Just out of morbid curiosity, but has anyone tried making the intake maniforld out of carbon fiber or vacuum formed plastic? I only ask because I notice that stock the intake (and associated air) gets blasted hot on the FC, so I can only assume that it would be substantially more on the 20B. Also, why aren't your headers wrapped and ceramic coated???
Old 08-27-05 | 10:30 AM
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Old 08-28-05 | 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Falcoms
Wow, nice dyno #'s. Can't wait to see them with the PPorts opened up. Just out of morbid curiosity, but has anyone tried making the intake maniforld out of carbon fiber or vacuum formed plastic? I only ask because I notice that stock the intake (and associated air) gets blasted hot on the FC, so I can only assume that it would be substantially more on the 20B. Also, why aren't your headers wrapped and ceramic coated???
I may be working with ShM21284 to make a poly plastic intake manifold, because the air does get hot, especially on a dyno. I have a scoop cut through the hood, so once I am going over 20mph, its pushing some cold air into it. On the dyno I do not have that advantage... I was afraid to heat wrap the headers, have you personally tried this? I have heard of stories where people shatter the headers from too much heat, was wondering if this was true. My headers are made out of 321 stainless, if that helps.
Old 08-28-05 | 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by CyborgRyu
Hey! Read your inbox!

I hope you'll come out to our drift event September 4th at Kil-Kare Dayton. I would love to ride!
I know of Kil-kare, I watch the team I'm on drift there all the time (hint: Project Elite) I am praticing this week with Peter and Tadashi, hopfully I can do a justifiable performance on sept 4th. And of course you can get a ride!!
Old 08-28-05 | 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by GtoRx7
I may be working with ShM21284 to make a poly plastic intake manifold, because the air does get hot, especially on a dyno. I have a scoop cut through the hood, so once I am going over 20mph, its pushing some cold air into it. On the dyno I do not have that advantage... I was afraid to heat wrap the headers, have you personally tried this? I have heard of stories where people shatter the headers from too much heat, was wondering if this was true. My headers are made out of 321 stainless, if that helps.
Alright on the intake, I'd like to see that when that comes about. Also, headers only crack when made out of mild steel and are done cheeply. In this instance, if you wrap each header individually and then around the collector, with the stainless header, you'll be golden. Also, ceramic coating does not cause any problems if properly done. You will increase your EGT's, but as a trade off, you get more horsepower because of less energy being lost to the open air around the exhaust system.
Old 08-29-05 | 12:49 AM
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Good to know, i will be wrapping them very soon!!
Old 08-29-05 | 02:03 AM
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Hi there. Can you give us a little info on the inlet manifold? e.g who cast it, is it avaiable off the shelf etc.

Excellent work!!
Old 08-29-05 | 09:36 AM
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I'm going to guess the intake is custom built from two 4-port sidedraft intakes. One mounts up stock and the other is cut in half. Atleast thats what it looks like to me.
Old 08-29-05 | 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by MPM
I'm going to guess the intake is custom built from two 4-port sidedraft intakes. One mounts up stock and the other is cut in half. Atleast thats what it looks like to me.
same here. . . man, thats a nice setup!!!
Old 08-29-05 | 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by GtoRx7
Good to know, i will be wrapping them very soon!!
Oh, almost forgot the almost 20ºF cooler engine bay temps from wrapping the headers. Also, from one of your earlier posts about the dyno run, you said that you haven't opened the semi PPorts. Do I take this to mean that you haven't even ducted them into the intake manifold yet?
Old 08-29-05 | 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Falcoms
Oh, almost forgot the almost 20ºF cooler engine bay temps from wrapping the headers. Also, from one of your earlier posts about the dyno run, you said that you haven't opened the semi PPorts. Do I take this to mean that you haven't even ducted them into the intake manifold yet?
You got it, the manifold intake flange is capping them off, I still need to pull it off once more and have holes drilled and tapped, and then a second throttle set made to open and close at high rpms, and will be ducted most likely to the front turn signal.



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