My rx-7 is done with cup holders! And a 3-rotor semi p-port N/a setup, STOCK SUBFRAME
03-04-06 | 06:43 PM
#351
wanna Hit 200+
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Las Vegas
ok sounds good i talked to kiwi just for kicks and see what they charge for the kit of the camao FD just street port no pports for the set up rebiult ready to go cept mounting and wiring to my door will run me 20K USD then your kit and then wiring and tuning which will end up being around 25K in the end! yiekssss i guess it going to be a DIY thing cept your mounting plates. will you be producing a header line too? i also really like Kiwi's tube intake manifold you might want to look into making something like that too. I would try to do most of this myself like you have but i don't have the time nor the tools to do so.
03-05-06 | 12:10 AM
#352
Originally Posted by GtoRx7
10) Any other kit that claims to use the stock subframe and rack location fully, yet keeps the alternator in the stock location and the stock intake mani, I am pretty sure is not true.
I'm still trying to figure out how Acosta got the alternator to fit in the stock location with them still using the stock sub-frame and not moving the rack? The stock manifold was lowered and they use a custom oil pan.
03-05-06 | 02:51 AM
#353
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From: Pataskala, Ohio
Originally Posted by t-von
I'm still trying to figure out how Acosta got the alternator to fit in the stock location with them still using the stock sub-frame and not moving the rack? The stock manifold was lowered and they use a custom oil pan.
03-05-06 | 02:54 AM
#354
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From: Pataskala, Ohio
Originally Posted by gmonsen
GtoRacer... as many have said already: this is a great thread. very creative approach. i had decided to go NA when my friend ccarlisi pointed me to this thread. i'll take a kit and would like some of those headers as well.
unbelievable that after being away for so long there are still so many idots on the rotary forum talking about small blocks being lighter and having more torque. they all seem to be jimlab-like clones and while i've always through jim was bright and as persistent and aggressive as a pit bull on long term steroid treatment i would have thought even he would have gone away. but noooooo. the labreck wannabe's apparently just don't ever get it. such a waste of bandwidth having to deal with them. oh well.
anyway. i'm just trying to build a better rotary that doesn't have the lag, on-off, old porsche turbo thing and no turbo to muffle the sweet sound of the 3 rotor and a wide and linear torque curve. seldom need more than 340 at the wheels esp with all the torque. i imagine that the feeling of the pull in 3rd (or 4th) must be like my old ferrari where it feels like there's an increasing amount of power all the way to 9000.
like you plan, i'm dry sumping so i won't need to notch the subframe. however, i am building more of a very fast gt (at least compared to the power potential of pports) and want a more sophisticated or perhaps more subdued sound on the street. based on the vids i've heard, yours is pretty loud for a driver? do you think there are any issues with adding a bit more muffler/resonator? also, i am going to keep the a/c, but dump the ps. could i put the a/c there?
anyway. great project. if you have time, i'd love to spend a minute on the phone sometime. pm me?
congrats.
g
g
unbelievable that after being away for so long there are still so many idots on the rotary forum talking about small blocks being lighter and having more torque. they all seem to be jimlab-like clones and while i've always through jim was bright and as persistent and aggressive as a pit bull on long term steroid treatment i would have thought even he would have gone away. but noooooo. the labreck wannabe's apparently just don't ever get it. such a waste of bandwidth having to deal with them. oh well.
anyway. i'm just trying to build a better rotary that doesn't have the lag, on-off, old porsche turbo thing and no turbo to muffle the sweet sound of the 3 rotor and a wide and linear torque curve. seldom need more than 340 at the wheels esp with all the torque. i imagine that the feeling of the pull in 3rd (or 4th) must be like my old ferrari where it feels like there's an increasing amount of power all the way to 9000.
like you plan, i'm dry sumping so i won't need to notch the subframe. however, i am building more of a very fast gt (at least compared to the power potential of pports) and want a more sophisticated or perhaps more subdued sound on the street. based on the vids i've heard, yours is pretty loud for a driver? do you think there are any issues with adding a bit more muffler/resonator? also, i am going to keep the a/c, but dump the ps. could i put the a/c there?
anyway. great project. if you have time, i'd love to spend a minute on the phone sometime. pm me?
congrats.
g
g
03-05-06 | 12:39 PM
#355
Back in the 7 life again
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: NoVA
I have heard that there is a company out there that makes a electronic restrictor for sound deadening... basically it constrticts the exhasut flow for daily driving to keep the sound down and when you want to get your power you can open it up and have the full flow. Just a thought.
03-05-06 | 09:04 PM
#356
3 rotor
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: Husker Nation
Originally Posted by t-von
I'm still trying to figure out how Acosta got the alternator to fit in the stock location with them still using the stock sub-frame and not moving the rack? The stock manifold was lowered and they use a custom oil pan.
03-05-06 | 11:26 PM
#357
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From: Pataskala, Ohio
Originally Posted by su_maverick
I have heard that there is a company out there that makes a electronic restrictor for sound deadening... basically it constrticts the exhasut flow for daily driving to keep the sound down and when you want to get your power you can open it up and have the full flow. Just a thought.
03-06-06 | 01:33 AM
#358
Back in the 7 life again
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: NoVA
this isnt as much of a flap as a dialating surface... at full throtle it is fully dialated and you get full flow but you can constrict it... Im trying to think of a reference visually... kinda like one of those old sci-fi movies that have circuilar doors that close towards the middle.... not sure if that helps at all...
03-06-06 | 03:56 AM
#362
Originally Posted by GtoRx7
I really dont know either, I did hours of fitting and measurement, and even if the motor has no oil pan, and is laying ontop of the rack, the alt. still hit the hood, by about 1". I place the motor about 4mm off the rack, and a dry sump will be exactly the same height. They have to move the rack, its the only way I see unless they move the whole motor and tranny backwards 4-5 inches.
Well if that's the case, I could see myself loosing the power steering but not the A/C if I had to relocate the alternator.
03-07-06 | 10:36 PM
#363
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From: Pataskala, Ohio
I am starting to work out a another bracket mod which would keep the a/c, and losing the p.s in favor of the alt. Mainly because three people are asking me about it. Anyone have a donor bracket they can send me for a few bucks?
03-11-06 | 07:34 PM
#366
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: .
Originally Posted by TAZ-NZ
Kiwi-RE recently built a Series 6 RX7 drift car with a N/A 466hp PP 20b with triple 55mm throttle bodies and fuel injection. I'll post the magazine article if anyone is interested.
03-12-06 | 02:24 AM
#367
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From: Pataskala, Ohio
Even I ran a 12.70 with horrible clutch, and horrible everything. That was only with 290 or so rwhp with such a shitty tune on it. If it was all dialed in I could have hit 7's easy!! haha, j/k on the last part....
03-13-06 | 12:34 AM
#369
Originally Posted by t-von
Well if that's the case, I could see myself loosing the power steering but not the A/C if I had to relocate the alternator.
Last edited by dclin; 03-13-06 at 12:37 AM.
03-13-06 | 03:42 AM
#370
Originally Posted by dclin
+1. Absolutely, positively the only thing I would not give up on a car is A/C given that I live in Houston. I'd rather drive a Yugo with cold A/C than an Aston with none.
Hey west Texas aint no joke either!
04-25-06 | 02:01 AM
#374
R.I.P. DAVE
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 407
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From: Newport Beach, California
BUMP for a badass car and a BADASS thread...
I would seriously be interested in going the N/A 20B route if I could really use the stock subframe...i mean no boost to worry about and all the reliability advantages add up to me, I mean i'm pretty happy with my 300hp single-turbo FD (conservatively tuned) and if i could get that same power (better delivery) and the sexy sound of a 20B, I would be all over that...
keep this thread going, i stopped at page 14 cuz my head is about to explode so i dont know if there were any more vid's posted or updates on kits (manifolds etc?) but I love this engine, I love the fact that it's all motor, and again, I wish you luck!
I would seriously be interested in going the N/A 20B route if I could really use the stock subframe...i mean no boost to worry about and all the reliability advantages add up to me, I mean i'm pretty happy with my 300hp single-turbo FD (conservatively tuned) and if i could get that same power (better delivery) and the sexy sound of a 20B, I would be all over that...
keep this thread going, i stopped at page 14 cuz my head is about to explode so i dont know if there were any more vid's posted or updates on kits (manifolds etc?) but I love this engine, I love the fact that it's all motor, and again, I wish you luck!