My new N/A side port 20B FC
09-04-05, 11:12 PM
#1
20B N/A Wide Body FC3S
Thread Starter
My new N/A side port 20B FC
large side port, guru, Motec M4, 3 x 1,000cc injectors, lexan/fiberglass rear hatch, FD dash, full cage, +30mm rear quater pannels, +20mm fenders, lexan drivers side window, engine set back 180mm's and lowered, Cusco Diff, reinforced rear subframe, delron bushings everywhere, urithane everywhere else, stillway 0-400 shifter, hand built intake manifold and farication all over the place.
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sukimoto (12-19-23)
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09-05-05, 12:26 PM
#11
Where is my Life ?
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Whoaa, I must admit that is a beatiful. Everything looks like it was done + A . So many little things that take soo much time and effort.
Definitly one of a kind. Specs and videos are also aprecciated
.
Definitly one of a kind. Specs and videos are also aprecciated
.
09-05-05, 01:08 PM
#12
Wow looks nice, I have a few questions for you.
What is the deal with the Stillway 0-400 shifter? Does it change it to a sequential type (up and down movement for shifting)? Is ti streetable? Please explain, I have been trying to contact them about it, but they never return any emails.
May I ask why you are using 3 x1000 CC injectors? Are you using 3 larger rather than runnign 6 smaller? From my understanding it makes it diffcult tunnign with larger injectors on NA powered cars.
Lastly what kind of power are you making? Dyno sheet? Other than porting was there anything else done internally? Hows the powerband and drive?
What is the deal with the Stillway 0-400 shifter? Does it change it to a sequential type (up and down movement for shifting)? Is ti streetable? Please explain, I have been trying to contact them about it, but they never return any emails.
May I ask why you are using 3 x1000 CC injectors? Are you using 3 larger rather than runnign 6 smaller? From my understanding it makes it diffcult tunnign with larger injectors on NA powered cars.
Lastly what kind of power are you making? Dyno sheet? Other than porting was there anything else done internally? Hows the powerband and drive?
09-06-05, 02:49 AM
#19
20B N/A Wide Body FC3S
Thread Starter
Damn that’s a lot of questions...
The flat bed truck is also mine and has Nissimo racing wheels on it..
The digital speedo and gas gauge are made by Dakota Digital; they were pretty simple to get working since I used a FD tail shaft on the transmission with the electronic speed sensor. Most of the other gauges are Apexi' EL and AU ones that are about the level of the autometer stuff that just came out in Japan recently.
No problems tuning with the 3 x 1,000cc injectors. I think part of the reason they are working great is that they are far enough up in the port runner that the fuel actually has time to atomize prior to entering the engine. Only having 3 injectors also eliminates a fuel rail and another ss hose and fittings etc that would clutter **** up more and I wanted to keep the engine as simple and clean as possible.
The dash is gutted on the back side and wasn't too bad to get in since it's actually smaller than the FC dash. I pretty much just fabbed mounts out of 1" wide aluminum and bent/drilled holes to make them mount to the dash and chassis mounting points and then used the metal vent portion of the FC dash across the top by the windshield to cover the gap left there. It's no where near show car quality, but I'm only looking for function and I didn't like the 80's squared off look of the FC dash.
Stillway 0-400 shift has a stock throw and when you lock the collar up it is basically a stock shifter and works like normal. It still feels much better due to the extra weight of the shift ****. When you drop the collar it is then gated. you pull it up and shift in the 1st and then let go of the collar, when you shift to second it drops down a little and can't go back in to 1st, when you go to 3rd the gate guides it there and it is impossible to accidentally go to 5th, in to 4th and the gate guides it again. In order to go to 5th, reverse, 1st or 2nd gear you have to pull up on the collar to get it out of that gate and then shift. Once you get used to operating the collar with your shift hand index and middle finger it's easy and it will save your transmission.
Spark plug wires are Taylor 8mm SST Ignition Wires, 3 x Accel GM 2 post coils running 1 coil per rotor with no split, 3 CDI's and 3 Voltage amplifiers where the back seat used to be and a FD igniter all fired by the Motec M4.
Car is only tuned to about 4k and I'm still breaking it in, but she's quite peppy and I can't wait to get it all tuned and see what it will do.
Short vid of it running is here
Click here to see Video
Hahaha; I bust my *** on them and make them get done....
I think that's answers all the questions, but if I missed any I'll get you and answer, but right now I'm starting to run late for my Tattoo apt...
The flat bed truck is also mine and has Nissimo racing wheels on it..
The digital speedo and gas gauge are made by Dakota Digital; they were pretty simple to get working since I used a FD tail shaft on the transmission with the electronic speed sensor. Most of the other gauges are Apexi' EL and AU ones that are about the level of the autometer stuff that just came out in Japan recently.
No problems tuning with the 3 x 1,000cc injectors. I think part of the reason they are working great is that they are far enough up in the port runner that the fuel actually has time to atomize prior to entering the engine. Only having 3 injectors also eliminates a fuel rail and another ss hose and fittings etc that would clutter **** up more and I wanted to keep the engine as simple and clean as possible.
The dash is gutted on the back side and wasn't too bad to get in since it's actually smaller than the FC dash. I pretty much just fabbed mounts out of 1" wide aluminum and bent/drilled holes to make them mount to the dash and chassis mounting points and then used the metal vent portion of the FC dash across the top by the windshield to cover the gap left there. It's no where near show car quality, but I'm only looking for function and I didn't like the 80's squared off look of the FC dash.
Stillway 0-400 shift has a stock throw and when you lock the collar up it is basically a stock shifter and works like normal. It still feels much better due to the extra weight of the shift ****. When you drop the collar it is then gated. you pull it up and shift in the 1st and then let go of the collar, when you shift to second it drops down a little and can't go back in to 1st, when you go to 3rd the gate guides it there and it is impossible to accidentally go to 5th, in to 4th and the gate guides it again. In order to go to 5th, reverse, 1st or 2nd gear you have to pull up on the collar to get it out of that gate and then shift. Once you get used to operating the collar with your shift hand index and middle finger it's easy and it will save your transmission.
Spark plug wires are Taylor 8mm SST Ignition Wires, 3 x Accel GM 2 post coils running 1 coil per rotor with no split, 3 CDI's and 3 Voltage amplifiers where the back seat used to be and a FD igniter all fired by the Motec M4.
Car is only tuned to about 4k and I'm still breaking it in, but she's quite peppy and I can't wait to get it all tuned and see what it will do.
Short vid of it running is here
Click here to see VideoHahaha; I bust my *** on them and make them get done....
I think that's answers all the questions, but if I missed any I'll get you and answer, but right now I'm starting to run late for my Tattoo apt...
Last edited by Dragon; 09-06-05 at 02:55 AM.
09-06-05, 07:27 AM
#20
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Yeah I saw that video on streetfire.net. Looks great. I don't really mind the FC dash all that much but I definitely don't dig the turn signals/wipers etc. The FD gauges would be a nice bonus too, assuming I wouldn't have too much trouble getting them to work. But I would probably just replace the gauges as you did.
This is the first I've ever heard of the shifter, and it sounds very interesting. How expensive is it? Who sells it?
Thanks for the answers.
This is the first I've ever heard of the shifter, and it sounds very interesting. How expensive is it? Who sells it?
Thanks for the answers.
09-06-05, 08:38 AM
#21
20B N/A Wide Body FC3S
Thread Starter
Ahh, I missed the engine question... It has solid Hurley corner seals, Atkins apex seals, 13B rotor housings, large side port, fairly large ex port, aftermarket oil by pass to up the oil pressure. All the other seals/bearings in the engine are factory. It also has an 8qt custom oil pan and a huge oil cooler up front. I'm also running 100:1 premix and tossed the oil metering pump and plugged the oil passage in the front plate that feeds the stock OMP.
As for the Stillway 0-400 shifter, I haven't ever seen it for sale in the USA for the RX7, but I have seen it advertised for the Supra, so you may be able to get one of those companies too special order one for you. I believe mine cost a little over $500 when I bought it a few years ago, but I'm not sure what they go for now. If you’re going to drag race I would HIGHLY recommend it...
As for the Stillway 0-400 shifter, I haven't ever seen it for sale in the USA for the RX7, but I have seen it advertised for the Supra, so you may be able to get one of those companies too special order one for you. I believe mine cost a little over $500 when I bought it a few years ago, but I'm not sure what they go for now. If you’re going to drag race I would HIGHLY recommend it...
09-06-05, 09:55 AM
#22
On flats
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i'm pretty sure i understood your description of the stillway, but to be sure, it's still fuly streetable right? no trouble downshifting, just a matter of getting used to lifting the collar, correct? clutchless? sorry to belabor the point, i'm just really interested in a strong clutchless transmission for the 20B after i break it down and port and single and what have you. . .thanks in advance for the help
great job by the way, very well done
-ryan
great job by the way, very well done
-ryan
09-06-05, 09:36 PM
#25
20B N/A Wide Body FC3S
Thread Starter
And you have to use the clutch no matter what on any stock trany... I don't have to use it on my fc since I have a GURU, but I still use the clutch normal driving to save on wear and tear of the Cogs.