my 20bpp project
10-19-07, 01:21 AM
#29
I'm curious.....why RX-8 rotors in a PP. Its already been proven that they yeild no extra power and are more expensive once you factor in all the machining costs thats needed to make them work.
By Capella you mean 616 or RX-2 correct? Its an awesome car so far, keep up the good work!
By Capella you mean 616 or RX-2 correct? Its an awesome car so far, keep up the good work!
10-19-07, 10:12 AM
#32
Likes to swear....alot
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??? really? I've never actually seen anyone try to put the RX-8 rotors in an older sideport engine before. I've only heard of people putting them into PP and losing power from them.
Any links to people using them in side port engines besides the Renisis?
Any links to people using them in side port engines besides the Renisis?
10-19-07, 09:04 PM
#33
InsaneRotaries.com
10-20-07, 08:39 AM
#35
InsaneRotaries.com
those old style adapters has been around Oz for ages... try this link
http://shop.pacperformance.com.au/pc...or-plates.aspx
http://shop.pacperformance.com.au/pc...or-plates.aspx
10-21-07, 03:13 AM
#36
Full Member
Thread Starter
hey guys sorry for no updates be busy busy, i will take some photos of that adapter plate for the supra conversion for you and as one of you guys said it is available from pac here in Australia and is quite a common upgrade. Engine will be getting build this week so i will add some photos of that the start up vid shouldnt be to far away..
cheers dave
cheers dave
10-25-07, 06:34 AM
#37
Full Member
Thread Starter
Hey guys well i guess this is the most significant progress report since i put my car online. I just finished building the engine and it came up a treat i am so stoked at how easy everything went together, that is credit to Rohan at extreme Rotaries his machine work is second to none I took some photos hope you all like them.
cheers dave
cheers dave
10-25-07, 07:03 PM
#39
really clever way of routing the exhaust. i missed that the first time around. would love to see a shot of it from the wheel well whenever you get a chance.
also, just curious as to what size injectors you're running?
the engine looks great, man. serious porno material.
also, just curious as to what size injectors you're running?
the engine looks great, man. serious porno material.
10-25-07, 07:31 PM
#40
Full Member
Thread Starter
Thanks mate i will take a few pics of the exhaust when it is back in and i am running 3 of the factory 550cc injector and 3 880cc injectors
cheers dave
cheers dave
10-26-07, 09:57 PM
#41
Full Member
Hey Dave, first i must commend you on the impressive work done on your 20-b project. I'm attempig a similar project of using the rx-8 rotors in a 13-b p-port setup. I've seen you mention that there is a trick in clearancing the side seals, i havent reach that far yet but would'nt mind you explain the procedure involved, unless its top secret. Have you seen or heard anyone apart from yourself using the rx-8 rotors and making more power than the 9.7:1 rotors. Thanks in advance for your reply.
10-27-07, 01:48 AM
#42
Full Member
Thread Starter
Hey Dave, first i must commend you on the impressive work done on your 20-b project. I'm attempig a similar project of using the rx-8 rotors in a 13-b p-port setup. I've seen you mention that there is a trick in clearancing the side seals, i havent reach that far yet but would'nt mind you explain the procedure involved, unless its top secret. Have you seen or heard anyone apart from yourself using the rx-8 rotors and making more power than the 9.7:1 rotors. Thanks in advance for your reply.
Well First of all you must order the extra long seals in order to get the correct side seal clearance the part number is (11-C11C-N3H1-8H) then what you will find is that the seal feels really wierd in the groove almost like it doesn't want to be in there, this is because the seal is tapered and thus only goes in the groove one way, the next trick is to machine the seal until it is close, so that it fits between your corner seals this is when you would normally check the seal clearance but what you need to do is get 2 feeler gauges from (2 thousands to 6 thousands) and put them into the groove with the seal, this is to simulate the position of the seal once the engine has been put together what you will find is that you will have to remove a fair bit more material and keep doing so until you reach your desired side seal clearance. So as you can probably tell if you were to do it the old way when you assemble your engine because of the taper you would have a really tight clearance if any at all.
Hope that all made sence if not pm me closer to when you are going to do it and i can help more then.
cheers dave
10-27-07, 08:37 PM
#44
Full Member
Hey mate
Well First of all you must order the extra long seals in order to get the correct side seal clearance the part number is (11-C11C-N3H1-8H) then what you will find is that the seal feels really wierd in the groove almost like it doesn't want to be in there, this is because the seal is tapered and thus only goes in the groove one way, the next trick is to machine the seal until it is close, so that it fits between your corner seals this is when you would normally check the seal clearance but what you need to do is get 2 feeler gauges from (2 thousands to 6 thousands) and put them into the groove with the seal, this is to simulate the position of the seal once the engine has been put together what you will find is that you will have to remove a fair bit more material and keep doing so until you reach your desired side seal clearance. So as you can probably tell if you were to do it the old way when you assemble your engine because of the taper you would have a really tight clearance if any at all.
Hope that all made sence if not pm me closer to when you are going to do it and i can help more then.
cheers dave
Well First of all you must order the extra long seals in order to get the correct side seal clearance the part number is (11-C11C-N3H1-8H) then what you will find is that the seal feels really wierd in the groove almost like it doesn't want to be in there, this is because the seal is tapered and thus only goes in the groove one way, the next trick is to machine the seal until it is close, so that it fits between your corner seals this is when you would normally check the seal clearance but what you need to do is get 2 feeler gauges from (2 thousands to 6 thousands) and put them into the groove with the seal, this is to simulate the position of the seal once the engine has been put together what you will find is that you will have to remove a fair bit more material and keep doing so until you reach your desired side seal clearance. So as you can probably tell if you were to do it the old way when you assemble your engine because of the taper you would have a really tight clearance if any at all.
Hope that all made sence if not pm me closer to when you are going to do it and i can help more then.
cheers dave
12-03-07, 05:00 AM
#47
Full Member
Thread Starter
hey guys i will have some new pics up tommorow of the revised fuel system and the sump in the mean time. Check out (www.gtautogarage.com.au) that where the car is getting built and will have all the videos on there as they come
cheers dave
cheers dave
12-04-07, 04:48 AM
#48
Full Member
Thread Starter
Hey guys here are the photos i promised hopefully have the engine back in by the weekend???
hope you all enjoy the pics as you can all see it is getting very close now and i really hope to get a noise out of it during the christmas break fingers crossed.
cheers dave
hope you all enjoy the pics as you can all see it is getting very close now and i really hope to get a noise out of it during the christmas break fingers crossed.
cheers dave
