Drove this baby around all weekend, everywhere. Ran great. Tested it on 12psi, phenominal power. Ready to go for 16psi next.

Some issues again popped up with the fuel pump

After a running of/on all day, in traffic, 85F I shut the car down. Come back and flip on the fuel and the walbro pump is 3x as loud, and base fuel pressure is down to 38psi rather than its initial 43psi. It didn't sound like cavitation just yet, but the damn thing was way louder and down on pressure. The pressure goes back to normal and pump is quiet once it cools down over a few hrs. Even with the loud pump, Car started right up and drove fine but now i just do not trust the walbro 400 anymore.


I'm thinking of switching to the proven reliable 044. Do you guys think a single 044 will provide enough flow for 630rwhp at 55psi pressure? I think it should do well.


Addicted should be posting a video they took of this 20b soon, and I'll have some 3rd gear pulls up shortly.

 

Max I have even seen on one 044 is 500rwhp on pump. I think that was with meth too( it was years ago so hard to recall exactly). It def will not be enough for you.

 

Whats interesting is I've read that the fluid filled pressure gauges drop in pressure readings as they retain heat in an engine bay. It could just be that my gauge is reading lower as a flaw when hot. The pump isn't hiccuping as before, its just louder when hot. Although I've already ordered a 044, I'm going to drain the fluid from the gauge and retest.

 

hopefully 044 will fix it! are you pumping to the sump tank with walbro and pump to engine with 044, or switching it out entirely with the 044?

 

First, a spare walbro will be installed to see if the issue persists. If the issues continues the pump will need to be replaced with somehing proven reliable, like a 255, and run that to surge tank with twin 044's

 

that's as fool proof as you can get, sump tank then twin 044 to the engine. you can even run stock pump to the sump tank as long as your sump tank is large enough. that's how I set mine up.

 

if you plan to stay in tank just get the proven twin wlbr 255 setup easy to to plumb and reliable,
I put around 40k miles most on e85 up to 70psi fp. plus I ran them on a single 30 amp relay both full time,
I ditched this setup after blowing the engine up thinking the pumps failed it was the power feed female pin to relay got loose and started melting,
I should have stayed with the same setup went more complex and problems started coming up.
I used stock return and two 5/16 lines with two oem filters to rails in parallel, bu the way the pumps still ran on other projects
just make sure with in tank you fill up when you get to a third of tank on street and over half on track,
And with the extra outputs you have you can run them on two relays one kicking in on boost or injector duty cycle

 

You sir have some huge ***** or just a big wallet to trust 2 walbro 255s.

 

I agree with silver, you are crazy if you think 2 Walbros 255 will be enough for the 20B.

I dont know but my Walbro 400 has been DEAD reliable, no problems whatsoever and i havent heard from any other forum member of having issues with it. I really dont think the walbros are the problem.

If you go yo twins 044 that means that you will have to retune yet again ;S

 

I've got mine down as well to go e85 and was thinking about this pump.

Pumps | Fuelab

I like the idea of a brushless pump, but then I'd need a surge tank to prevent starving on left turns.

Another option you could consider since you've already purchased a 044 is this setup..

Surge Tank Kit (1.7L)

Idel

 

If you are going around a corner and you start the rear end sliding, stay on the throttle and steer. not only is this more fun, but its much easier to control.

if you chop the throttle, you will spin the car, in fact this is a drift technique.

 

Thankyou guys for all the input!!!!

So far the pump has been acting fine. It only acted up on the 2 hr drive in heatsoaked environment. I'm hoping to repeat the situation again and confirm the issue.

Here's a video in the meantime

 

Really nice video. Are you not able to get the factory rpm gauge working?

 

"you are crazy if you think 2 Walbros 255 will be enough for the 20b"

was plenty of fuel for my 500whp+ on low reading mustang dyno on e85 at around 70psi fp. how much more fuel does 630rwhp at 55psi fp. on pump gas need?

 

I may be wrong but I thought 255's and 044' are the most used, proven and reliable pumps.
If 255s no good does that make walbro e85 not good also?
Dont they use the same proven motor but more flow efficient bottom,
at the same time the extra flow causing more load on the motor by pulling more amps?

Runing one pump and other when needed will keep fuel cool and draw almost half amps of e85 pump.
Also he can set the ecu fp safety feature up if one pump fails

by the way silver great advice on controlling the car when sliding, you can let go the throtle on low speed but if u let go on high speed u asking for trouble

 

Thanks!

I haven't bothered trying to hook it up to be honest.

Its funny, so many people have asked me about the factory gauge no working. I just don't see any point in wiring it up as it safer/easier for me to look at the dash mounted gauge

 

man the car looks hot, monster setup
the roll bar is it custom weld or bolt on?

 

Thought you guys might like this hehe !



Small Update:

Been keeping an eye on the fuel pump. Seems that pressure drops as the car gets real hot in traffic and underhood temps are scorching. Its hard to accurately read a fluid filled gauge, but my electronic gauge shows a 5psi drop in fuel pressure when hot.

I came across this post on a mopar forum:

"When everything is cold your pressure is higher as the spring in the regulator and the pump housing warms up it will account for a slight pressure drop.

Secondly as the barrometric pressure decreases the fuel density changes and will fluctuate the pressures.

Warm the car up good and around noon on a nice day set your pressure. It will be a bit high in the morning when cold and it'll drop slightly when warm but the volume should remain fairly constant which is way more important than fuel pressure which is only an indication of resistance in the fuel system."

This may be common knowledge to some, but I've never considered that fact that the base pressure should be set at max operating temp.

I bumped up a little fuel into the idle, richening it from 13.5 to 12.75 and it no longer wants to die at hot restarts. And additionally, the car restarts great up to 190F, but anything over 200F and its nearly impossible to fire off. Still not sure if its tuning, ecu, or compression.

Once these bugs are worked out, the 16psi map will be tested!

I'm going to test the fuel pump by raising the fuel pressure sky high when the pump is screaming hot to see if it can maintain the supply. This should confirm the hot spring/regulator theory as to the dropping pressure.

And for those wondering about the temps, this setup with the FMIC, koyo n-flo, and twin oil coolers is sitting around 200F-205F in traffic in 90F and temps will settle around 195-190F cruising/boosting so long as you're not in the throttle constantly.

 

^I have the exact same problem with a mine. Temps in 200 range it wont fireoff. 190-200 no problem. My fan thermo switch connector broke off recently so now Im trying find a new one. I run a 200 degree on and 185 off switch and never have starting issues as long as my fans kick on like there suppose to. I may try re-set my fuel pressure during operating temp to see if that also helps.

 

Took it out for this test run yesterday. Car ran ok, played with tps enrichment a little more, its getting a little closer.

Shut the car down after 2 hrs at 205F. Would not restart, adding / subtracting fuel from the ECU or trying with fuel pump off. Nothing. Sit for 5 mins, drop to 190F, fires up immediately.. wtf

 

So nothing to do with the 20b, but if you were ever to roll the car wouldn't your harness keep you upright so you'd essentially get crushed to death? I see you have a half cage or whatever you'd like to call it, but don't you need a "full" cage to make it safe to wear the 4/5/6pt harnesses? My understanding is that the oem 3pt allow you to lean to the side in the event of a rollover?

 

I am not sure what ECU you have but could you have an ignition timing correction factor that is off when the temps are hot?

 

Currently there isn't a table to adjust for that compensation on timing. What would you recommend, more timing? I can contact Adaptronic and see if they can send me a programmed table.

Its really odd, the car doesn't even try to fire or make any hints of lighting up. And my starter turns EXTREMELY fast. But if I wait a few mins and come back, lights right up.

 

The rear hoop roll bar is higher than the seats. The view from the CAM is because its on my forehead and looks pretty high up in the car. If the car was to roll, the roll bar "should" keep the roof intact enough to prevent crushing.

Other than that, I've contemplated finishing out the roll bar, but if you have the front points / dash bar or whatever, its really cramped. Without a helmet, its probably more dangerous as you could hit your head on the bar. Its a toss up.

 

Man I'm really starting to fall in love with these 1st person camera angles. I need to get off my *** and buy my spy glasses already but I may need to purchase another hi output alternator. The one I have isn't putting out much amps at anything below 1000rpms. It's already overdriven too with a small pully. Now that all my intake leaks are fixed, I can finally idle at 750 no problems but, my voltage is dropping below 12v as soon as my fans kick in. It's putting too much strain on my little Braile battery and is making for sluggish/weak hot starts.

Are you still running the stock alternator?