What type of clutch were you running.
Am I right in assuming that was your cf fd with the flip up rear half in the courtyard at the last few Sevenstocks?

 

The Richmond transmissions are totally different than the DNE 4+1 race boxes. The Richmond street trans is a full synchronized tranny and is not very strong at all. I found some old literature on the DNE that says it is good for over 900 ft lb of torque. I am currently running a DNE trans and have not had any problems yet. I found a source for parts for them and the guy said that as long as they are not abused they will last very long even in street use. I paid $1000 for my trans with the shifter.

Allen

 

Thanks a lot for the info! I'll be sure to hit 'em up

I expected as much.

Woah...are you serious? I'm VERY big on keeping everything as "OEMish" as possible. In fact, one of the things I love about the Jerico is that you can specify the shifter location, enabling you to maintain it's original position in the interior. But what's this about moving the seat?? Off the bat, I def. don't have any room to spare as it is, so moving the seat is virtually impossible. Why is moving the seat necessary? There's gotta be a way around it...???

Why am I not surprised?

Definitely

Yea...what are you doing about the clutch? I had my fair share of adventures trying to find a clutch...check it out: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/fd-clutch-splines-593212/ Any input would be greatly appreciated!

Hey Allen. Thanks for the info. I'll def. keep it in mind. But who sells the DNE?

Oh and can someone explain to me what a vertical gate shifter is? My guess was that it's kind of like a sequential shifter in that you don't choose gears; you just push up and it upshifts. But the difference b/w vertical gate and sequential shifters is that the vertical gate only allows you to upshift, but you can't downshift until you're stationary (ideal for drag racing), while a sequential allows you to up or downshift, provided you rev match. Is that correct? Or am I wayyy off?

Thanks
~Ramy

 

That is exactly how a V-gate works. When your at a stop you lift the lever up and rack it into first gear. After that it is back and forth until you are where you need to be.

Doug Nash Enterprises is no longer in business. I bought my transmission at a swap meet.

Allen

 

Regarding clutches which ties into this selection, there is a good thread going here about them:

https://www.rx7club.com/auxiliary-injection-173/ai-clutches-load-up-592694/

-Chris

 

Another option, albeit quite dear: http://www.hewland.com/svga/productrange/igt-c.htm


A related topic on this forum about the win:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...90#post6303490
IGT-C with an NA 20B

 

Thanks...that's what I thought.

That's what I was alluding to when I said Richmond Transmissions bought his design specs.

Nice! Thanks for the head's up

I already looked into Hewland. Their max torque rating is around 600 ft. lbs. Sure, it's a great tranny. But keep in mind that the RE JGTC FD is NOT a high hp or torque car.

 

Jeff, I just got off the phone w/ Scott, and man oh man, I owe ya

Scott's very familiar w/ the various parts and products I need (Jerico tranny, Tilton Clutch, flywheel, bearings, etc), and was EXTREMELY helpful. He took the time to answer my numerous questions, and is gonna be getting back to me soon with some solid info and quotes I can't wait!

Oh and he told me that since the time you've purchased your tranny, the Jerico shifters have undergone a revision, and are MUCH more compact now, so they don't require moving the seat over and what not.

Thanks!
~Ramy

 

awesome to hear. . .please post up your findings with tq/hp numbers, RPM limits, and cost if it's cool with everyone involved. . .i'm sure that MANY people would appreciate it. the community needs a trans/clutch solution for high tq apps (like big single 20Bs)

thanks Ramy
ryan

(ps - i sent you an email some time ago and no reply, just makin sure you got it)

 

You have no idea Ryan. For the longest time I've sifted through thread after thread, and I never really found an easy, affordable, reliable/worthwhile solution to the trans issue. Thankfully, it seems this will soon be an issue of the past.

FYI, I already spoke w/ Jerico, and they base the torque rating of the tranny upon the vehicle weight (which makes perfect sense). For a 2800 lb FD, they said it's good for AT LEAST 900 ft lbs of torque. I think that's plenty And a bunch of the 20B racers in Puerto Rico rev their motors to 13K rpm, so the Jerico can obviously handle very high rpms

As for the Tilton 7.25" triple plate carbon clutch, it's certified and dyno tested for 1265 ft lbs (1750 Nm). Not too shabby, eh?

I'm sure I did; I'm just swamped at the moment, and prob won't get to the zillion and one PMs and emails I have until this coming Monday (ie a week from now). So plz be patientw/ me

Thanks
~Ramy

 

Does this also mean no more cutting of the trans tunnel either?
I'm VERY interested in hearing more about this.

 

Negative. I didn't say the TRANNY got narrower; I said the SHIFTER got narrower lol. Sorry to give ya false hope...

But yea, basically the need to move the seat over that Jeff mentioned was due to the huge jalopy of a shifter they had; now that they've redesigned it, it's much more streamlined and narrow, so moving the seat over and what not isn't an issue. But the Jerico tranny is pretty big in it of itself from what I can tell (and what I was told), so hacking up the trans tunnel in unfortunately inevitable.

~Ramy

 

As I understood it, since the Jericho 5-speed has external shift rails, I thought the whole "shifter" packaging was smaller. As it was, the shifter offset a couple inches to the driver side is what required the trans tunnel modification iirc.

I had no idea they had developed an internally shifted 5-speed road race tranny either.
http://www.jericoperformance.com/5.html

I'm really curious as to which tranny fd20b had in his car.

The external rail shifter setup:

 

I had the tranny set up shown in your picture. I had the mid valley shifter set up. I also heard about the internal rail shifting 5spd, they also make a internal rail 4spd now (you will not need to cut your transmission tunnel with the internal rail 4spd). The reason you need to cut for the 5 speed is, the transmission is set up for extremely low ground clearence (the transmission is built wide and short). The 4 spd is built with less ground clearence (which is not a problem in a rx7, I had a 4spd Jerico in there before I put the 5spd in)...

Yes my car was the FD with the flip up rear hatch that was at sevenstock for the past several years. I was going to bring it this year but I sold it a couple of days before, I took my ugly Bugeye Sprite (3 rotor powered car)... It is ugly but is only 1580 lbs with 450 hp (it is a NA motor)...

If any of you are interested in the Jerico call Scott at Taylor Race, he is a cool guy and knows his ****.... And since I had them build me both tranny set ups already, the R&D is done...

Ramy good to hear Scott took care of you, hey sent me an e-mail letting me know he will take care of you.....
Food for thought, with the high HP and great power band of the 20b turbo the 4 spd work great!... Trust me I know, when I had the 20b in my car I ran the 4spd. All you do is set 1st gear higher, set it for 65 mph instead of 45 like you would on a 13b (if you go with a 5 spd and set 1st low, it will be unusable).... Save some money, weight and time put in a 4 spd internal rail shift Jerico...

Jeff
Jeff

 

Thanks for the response and very useful info.
I saw that bugeye this year and snapped some photos. One of my favorite cars up there this year.
For everyone else who didn't get to see it....