rotorooter93fd

iTrader: (6)

I realize there are a lot of things to consider in this but lets say the car is a 93 rx7 with a 600whp 20b weighing in around 2900 with driver. traction is about as good as you can get with true street tires( no drag radials 315 mm wide) and 410 gears. what kind of factory cars or lightly modified cars would be comparable with this.

rotorooter93fd

iTrader: (6)

so are my specs way far off for what the car would be or is the car just that impressive?

ReZ311

iTrader: (4)

Well, those aren't any real specs, just factory ones.

As gmonsen mentioned, there will be no production car that will be able to accelerate as fast, let alone touch you on the street/track. Yes it's impressive!

GtoRx7

iTrader: (5)

Bugatti Veyron is 1001 flywheel hp, or roughly 890rwhp. Weighs in at 4100lbs giving it a 4.67:1 Rwhp to weight ratio. A 600rwhp 20b FD will have a 4.83:1 pwr/weight. That is about the fastest production car (loose term here), and the FD almost gets it. Hope that helps put it into perspective.

rotorooter93fd

iTrader: (6)

thnaks guys I thought after posting this i was going to get flamed but now im just even more pumped up to get my project finished. so when i stated in a previous post that it would be comparable or faster than a lingenfelter corvette I assume I was fairly accurate. woo hoo this car is going to be nuts.

Chaotic_FC

honestly i dont even see the point on going 20b if 600rwhp is your goal...
you could make 800rwhp decently easy on pump with a 20b... then theres really no comparison to 99.999999999999 precent of cars on the road.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

I see the point.....a 600 rwhp FD is not really streetable, feasible, or reliable in my opinion. 500 rwhp, sure.

A 20B (properly built and setup) at that same power level is unstressed, sounds like a million bucks, and has loads of torque relative to a it's 2 rotor little brother.

R-R-Rx7

iTrader: (24)

couldnt be said better

ReZ311

iTrader: (4)

I don't think 800HP would be reliable either for a 20b.

IronMdnX

iTrader: (1)

Horsepower is addicting. I was content for a while with the stock twins, then came the single turbo on pump gas. Anything beyond that you will break drivetrain parts. The only time you will notice the extra hp is in 4th and 5th gear. 500-600 hp is the sweet spot, you will not be dissapointed. I've gone beyond and it gets expensive.

bewtew

iTrader: (7)

i love my car

stevenoz

iTrader: (27)

Best said thing I've read on this forum in a while.

bewtew

iTrader: (7)

i agree with you stevenoz +1

t-von

iTrader: (8)

I'm gonna be perfectly honest. The 20b Fd isn't gonna be as fast as it could be simply because it's gonna be traction limited. We can sit here all day long and talk about hp to weight ratio yada yada and it isn't gonna mean anything if your 20b powered beast isn't putting that power down to the pavement. I here storys all the time about the turbo 20b guys rolling on the throttle in 4th and breaking traction. That's very dangerious and too unsafe to control for ameture drivers. Do you think a mid engine Konigsegg or all wheel drive Bugatti Veyron is gonna have that traction problem from a roll? Nope! They have the extra weight in the back to help plant the tires the fd doesn't. The Fd is a very light car with not much weight in the rear. Think about how much less weight there is back their with a heavier engine up front and increased torque? Spin Spin Spin. To me it's like putting a torquey v8 in a Miata and expecting great acceleration. LOL not gonna happen on the street. Now I don't want you to think that I'm trying talk you out of your goals. Far from it. You do however you need to be aware of what your getting yourself into. That kind of power to weight ratio aint to be taken lightly.

rotorooter93fd

iTrader: (6)

point noted ^ honestly i think you are right. my friend had a supercharged 408 vette with a 200 shot making 1000whp off the bottle and i have to say it was fun but he was feathering the throttle through every gear. on the other hand his 1100whp supercharged viper just seems to stick like tree sap. i think you are right that i will definetly loose traction but i wonder if it will become fairly decent with the right suspension setup... I will definetly just use 400whp to start and see where things go from there until i find that sweet spot. but i still have some time till the car is finished.

does anyone have any estimated 0-60mph times for this setup or maybe their current 0-60mph or 0-100 er whatever.

also why is it i never see any 20b cars street racing. other than the video on streetfire.net of the 20b fc vs the 300 shot srt-10 viper

t-von

iTrader: (8)

^ The Viper has an advantage with it's super wide 335 series tires. 1000hp is still crap loads for that car. To prep your Fd properly for the street, you should be running nothing less than 12" wide/w flares in the rear or drag radials on 10" wheels. I prefer the 12's Some would say stickier tires would be sufficient but seriously, if that where the case, all the exotic cars would be running 10" wide rears on street rubber. We all know that's not the case.

rotormind

Turbotommy haven't been on here in a while but he has a 750rwhp 20b that he drives on the street all the time. He don't post enough videos of it but he has a couple. He's insane, almost everytime I went to jim's shop he would show up in his car like it was nothing. There's a video on here of him raping a 750rwhp supra on the highway. But with good tires and the right suspension, you can make any car stick.

bewtew

iTrader: (7)

i saw that vid a while back but i cant find it anymore

RX-Heven

iTrader: (1)

Gearing is critical in putting power to the ground. Gears are torque multipliers and the lower the gearing, the more the torque is multiplied. By simply putting taller gears into the rearend and/or swapping out the 1-2 gearsets, you would be better equipped to handle more (excessive) power and put it to the ground better than a shorter geared car with the same (excessive) power. That said, you can go too tall and actually hinder the cars accelreation. Gear selection is a process of balancing compromises and you always need to keep in mind what the cars intended purpose is.

And just for the record, I'd rather limit the amount of power with my right foot and have more than enough power in reserve.

Chaotic_FC

+99999999

allrotor93

iTrader: (126)

i wanted over 600 but i cant even control 530...hell 4th gear at 30mph still has tons of throttle response

ReZ311

iTrader: (4)

450 RWHP is alot. 600+ is insane. 800+ is death.

But some kids don't know... 350-400 HP on a track is plenty to play with. But most people don't want to lose drag races or highway races... So they switch to a 20b putting down crazy HP numbers.

I'm switching for reliable 450+ HP. I'm tired of popping 2 rotor engines pushing over 400 HP. Plus the sound of a 20b is music to everyone's ears.

Chaotic_FC

So are you saying that its a bad idea for me to put a 13bppt with 25psi on pump in my daily driver FC?

I mean, i've never actually been in a car that does 0-60 faster than 3.8.... but i am prepared for insanity, and i'm defiantly a bit crazy..

im just worried about traction.. Im wondering if even 345s will hold that power.. Im looking into getting pirelli 375s.

ReZ311

iTrader: (4)

I think what we're saying is people wouldn't ask these questions if they knew what they were building. We're not pointing fingers at you, but I've seen alot of posts on questions about ridiculous setups that people know nothing about.
13bppt with 25psi on pump in my daily driver FC won't be daily driver for very long and it's not practical. If you like driving to work in a FC, then go for it. I prefer a fuel efficient diesel that's comfortable. But then again, I drive ~2,500 miles a month. On the weekends, I try very hard to break my rotary engines... But it can't be done.

Chaotic_FC

well, obviously thats high boost on pump, i'd have it low most of the time. But im looking for the hell of a lot of fun, and shock factor, not 300,000 miles.