Sorry for the lack of updates, I got back from NJ about a week ago. Well Fri. I got her running using the AEM. Now here is my problem.
I have 2 cracks on the rear housing oil filter mount. It leaks like hell!!. I was so happy i got her running I was busy adjusting the idle settings and stuff I didn't even notice the big puddle under the car.

I have a spare rear housing, But can affor a full rebuild at the moment.
Is it possible to just change the rear housing w/o disturbing too much by replacing the rear o-rings only? Or just suck it up and have it rebuilt. My car cas been down for allmost ecactly a year. I miss driving her, and the anticipation of the new found HP isn't helping. Any suggestions.

Also, Who would you have rebuild/port it?

Thanks guys

 

if you go to NJ often I suggest talking to Ito at JR's Rotary. He has extensive experience with Porting Rotories and own a Rotary Only Shop in Patterson NJ on Cliff st.

 

I imagine you can fix it with JB weld or something similar. If it's strong enough to patch up overporting into water jackets I think it will hold up to a bit of oil pressure. If you are having trouble getting the filter to seal because of the crack maybe you can thread the holes and use a remote mount filter kit.

It is also possible to have only 1/2 a motor rebuilt. A friend of mine did it. The motor has since survived numerous track events and about a year's worth of use.

 

I went ahead and tried the jbweld idea. It seems to be holding so far. I am looking at still getting a rebuild possibly this winter, but the motor runs great. I took her out for a quick spin arround the block. I have alot of tuning to do.

Here is a few pics.

 

Very Nice

 

Here is a quick list of what i spent the past year or so. Keep in mind i bought the car in march of 2002, and have only put on 4500 miles last summer before the coolent seal went lat Sep.

2900 Motor
2200 Subframe / Spindles
650 DownPipe / Intercooler piping from Derrick
369 Koyo Radiator
195 Greddy Type-R BOV
1350 Greddy 3 row intercooler
125 Greddy Elbow
1000 Earls fittings, lines, fuel filters, oil thermostat, remote oil filter mount, 2 oil coolers
150 Aeromotive FRP
350 Apex GTR Fuel Pump
215 Supra Fuel Pump
60 Homemade fuel rail
280 3 1680cc injectors
1250 AEM computer
215 6 LS1 Coils
589 Apex GT Exhaust
200 3" Mid Pipe
100 Plug wires
2250 Dual disc Unorthodox/Tilton Clutch w/ new clutch slave cylinder
300 Apex AVC-R Boost controler
250 Misc parts(belts, hoses, etc)

14098
Plus the brakes & rims/tires

 

sweet...

I just got my 20B up and running as well two days ago..



if you pull the engine and use a good mig welder you can weld and reenforce the area around the rear dowl pin to stop the leak and make it stronger. By just using the JB weld you risk the chance of the crack growing due to it being weak in that area.. When you weld it, if you do, do a little and then stop and let it cool, then hit it again etc and take your time. If you get it too hot you will melt the outer o-ring in that area and you'll definitly have to rebuild the engine. you can also just rebuild the back half and leave the front rotor part bolted up as well.

 

Both of you guys have got to post some audio clips of those beast.

 

Yeah, time for some community service

 

your wheels look great, not to mention the 3 rotor, but they really caught my eye.
Awesome!!!

Did you just stick the engine in as-is?
Is it a weekend driver? Maybe you could make it seeing as winter is pretty close, but on powerful series 4 turbo iis the rear housing is the weak spot, so that probably means its under a lot of stress, not sure if this was a really weak spot, or what.

Dunno. I confused myself, anyways awesome car.

 

how much hp to the wheels does a20b produce?

 

very soon we will see.. but I'm only shooting for a max of 700hp on a side port here in the near future.. stock ported 20B will max out at around 500 hp or so..

 

when I Had the engine on the stand I put in a new oil chain, FD oil-pressure regulators, and new seals seals front & back. I ported out the wastgate area a little on the stock turbos and did a typical non-seq mods to them. Other than that i kept it simple to get her running to work out all the bugs before attacking a single conversion then a rebuild/ port job. From what i gather the stock 20b twins will support 350-400+ hp to the wheels.

 

IronMdnx, its amazing how we are taking the same approach with our 20b conversions. All I need now is the computer, downpipe, spindles, and flywheel.

 

hey IronMdnX: how much hood clearance do you have between from the top of the UIM? i'm assuming you are using pettits subframe/spindles no? i just got the donor car for my motor so im trying to decide what would be the best way to mount. thanks and the car looks SCHWEEET!!
-heath

 

I believe he is using the Pettit sub-fram. Therfore, he will have no clearance issues.

 

i was just wondering about the hood clearance using the pettit subframe as it looks really close. im also wondering how much clearance i would have to work with cause the car i bought will be needing a new hood due to an unfortunate engine fire. i was thinking about a cf hood to try and offset some of the extra weight from the 20b. also, i cant quite tell from the looks of it but would a normal strut bar hit the UIM?? i cant remember ever seeing one on the pettit built cars.

 

There is VERY LITTLE clearance drom the hood to the top of the intake. I'm using Mazdaspeed 2 Gen mounts that are trimmed back alittle to fit the subframe. There is no way a strutbar will fit w/ the way i have the intercooler plumbing. If you go with a route like Derrick or Dragon you would be able to get one of Pettit's strut bars to fit. I might change the my plumbing in the future to give clearance for one of the vented fiberglass hoods. I just went the eazy route and made the greddy pipes fit( Just had to cut 1 pipe back a little)

 

thanks IronMdnX !! just what i wanted to know. how far along are you with your project?

 

I've been tuning & driving the last 2 days. One setback today, the A/C compressor seized up on me, so ended up driving arround w/o ps. I'm getting close in the drivability department, but still need to work on WOT some more. I have it set at 8psi until i get it as best as I can. I did have it spike to 18psi yesterday, because a vacumeline wasn't attached. 18psi felt real good for the little bit i was seeing it and i wan't leaning out at all (Thank God!!).
The clutch is going to take some getting use to. The whole assembly weighs 15lbs(flywheel, 2 discs, pressure plate) so it is easy to stall from a standing start.

 

what computer did you end up choosing? im just about convinced with the new haltech that can run split, but i wanted to know what everyone else is running

 

I'm running the Microtec LTX12 with the w/b and dash and I have anouther wide band in the car as well to compare them.. only .1-.2 diffrence in A/F ratio between them. The Microtec one reads richer of the two.

I also shortened my lower intake mani by about 1 1/2" and I have about a 1/2 clearance between the upper mani and the strut tower bar in the car right now..

 

Who do you send the manifold too to have it cut like that?

 

Dragon whats the turbo you have?

 

Looks like i'm going to pull the motor. JB-weld isn't holding to well. I've had a couple little leaks where the oil finds a weak spot, and i'm sick of messing with it. I'm goin to go ahead and replace the rear housing. If that doen't pan out I'll send her out for a full rebuild/ port job. The tuning is going well. I have it running from 10.75-11.0 under boost. I was able to make a 1-3 gear runs on some of the back roads before pissing oil again. It felt decent , but i can't wait till i can turn up the boost some more, then single turbo time!! I'm picking up my buddies PT-88mm turbo that he had on 97 camaro with a 388ci small block. He is going to a pt-91mm or pt-96mm next. One other guy i know just dynoed hid 94 Camaro w twin t-63 at 938hp 930 ft. lbs. at the wheels at 19psi boost. Both are street drivin cars. I have a little catching up to keep up with them.