paximus

iTrader: (1)

ok, been researching for about a week and a half now. i just want you more experienced 20b guys to look this over and see if there is anything that i missed, got wrong ect...
i looked on RETed's writeup for the fc and kinda tried to make it work for the fd with what i've learned so far. i still have some questions, but hopefully thats where you guys come in and hopefully give me some guidence/help.

-ENGINE: $4000
i know a guy a town over that gets shipments from a contact in japan of 10 rotaries every 3 months and he gets about 4-6 20b's a year, so he has decent motors, with decent compression, and he'll give me a really good price. (he builds quite a few sand rails each year and 3 rotors are the most popular) and the 4k includes a rebuild also.

-MOTOR MOUNTS/SUBFRAME: $2300
i have brand new urethane 13b mounts, is it possible to use these? modify them in some way? or as johnisenglish said, anyone can make them for pretty cheap. i put $200 extra just for the hell of it, i could actually sell mine to help cover the cost. also, new subframe and spindles(2100). (on a side note, after reading the thread from mva, if i just go with the billet oil pan and front mount, the price should drop quite a bit.)

-TRANSMISSION: $---
i've read that the fd tranny bolts up to it, except for one bolt on the top that doesn't matter. this would just be for now, the big beefy tranny would have to come later, when i'm making more power/have all the $$$ for it. already have flywheel and 6puck disc with act extreme plate. should hold for a while, then twin disc.

-TURBO(S): $1000
i have a single turbo right now, but it wont keep up with the 20b flow wise. but it might suffice for a while. its a gt35/40R from aspec. its larger than the regular 35/40, bigger compressor wheel (t66) and shaft. i also have two manifolds and two downpipes for this turbo kit. it only has 2k miles on it so i hope i could get a really good price on it. so hopefully it will offset the cost of a larger turbo for the 20b. and the $1000 is how much my fabricator would charge me to make a custom manifold and dp.

-EXHAUST: $---
i have full 3" now, dp is taken care of above, and selling the exhaust i have now will once again hopefully offset the cost of mp and catback.

-INTAKE/INTERCOOLER: $100
i currently run the M2 medium ic, which i can sell and buy a front mount for about the same cost. the $100 is for fabrication of the intercooler piping. and i have numerous filters laying around, if i need a bigger one, it should only be $50 or so anyway.

-OIL COOLER LINES: $1000
ok, this is where i dont want to slack. i am thinking it would just be a good idea to do a dual oil cooler kit. i think the price might be a little high, but there are always extra things you need.

-COOLING SYSTEM: $100
i currently have the SR motorsports radiator, its over 2" thick, so i'm hoping it should do the job. if not, please let me know. according to the update on RETed's writeup: "UPDATE - the FD3S water pump housing and water pump will fit. The FD3S auxiliary bracket that holds the power steering and AC compressor on the driver's side will fit, but you need to drill some holes to mount the bracket properly; some of the holes already line up! The FD3S water pump is supposed to flow better than the FC3S unit, so this can be considered an upgrade. If you run the power steering and AC(?), you need to install all the FD3S pulleys and belts."
so i added the $100 for gaskets i might need.

-IGNITION: $1000
just going by the writeup by RETed again, i should need it all. i have the HKS twin power right now, not sure how much i can get for it and the harness, so i'll leave it at $1000.

-FUEL SYSTEM: $305
i currently have the supra denso fuel pump, which should be ok for now. i run the stock primaries, but 1600cc secondaries. so if i just need to make a new secondary rail, ($80) and another 1600 injector ($100) i'm thinking i should be ok on fuel. although i dont know how well my pump would hold up by that point. i believe the primaries are side feed 550's and just had mine cleaned by rc, so adding another 550 into the rail would be another $125. is there a difference in the 20b and fd side feed injectors? also, i already have sx fpr and sx filter.

-ECU: $2000
haltech E11

-OTHER ISSUES: $???
tach fix/recalibration ($???)
sway bar? mva's oil pan is said to have elieviated this problem?

so...
$4000
2300
1000
100
1000
100
1000
305
2000
=
$10805


so this is my little plan i just threw together. i'm hoping its fairly complete, but could use the help from those who've done it/are doing it. anything i messed up on or could change, opinions are welcome.
criticism welcome too, as long as its constructive

thanks-
shaun

btw, thanks goes to RETed for his writeup for the fc. here it is just for those who havn't seen it: http://fc3spro.com/TECH/SWAP/COSMO/20b.html

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

you're in the ballpark, you need to add a little bit for misc type stuff (cooling fans, fuel lines, sensors), and then add another little bit for the stuff you change your mind on, or decide to do differently. and maybe another little bit for labor, like welding if you need to fab something.

paximus

iTrader: (1)

thanks for the help j9fd3s.
i forgot about the fans, and didn't know if the stock fd fuel lines would be enough or not, so i'll add those to the list.
as far as sensors go, i thought the haltech had everything i would need. i also already have a full-time wideband installed, so what other sensors would i need to get?
i have a fabricator/welder, so that parts kinda taken care of.
i know through the course of going through projects your opinions change all the time. i went through it with the single install, and after 4 years still cant decide on body stuff. stock is just so clean. so i know there will be additional expenses, there always are.
i also forgot to add, or subtract rather, the $$ i can get from my newly rebuilt road race motor ($3000) and my pfc/commander/datalogit ($1000) so thats actually $4000 off that figure too. taking it to $6805. not taking into account the fans/lines/sensors j9fd3s mentioned.
so even if i add $3000 for miscelaneous stuff, i'm still under $10k. not too shabby.
is there anything else i missed?

thanks for the help guys.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

those were just examples of stuff i ran into, you might run into other stuff, in a huge project like this its hard to cover every single thing you might encounter

paximus

iTrader: (1)

i know its impossible. but i'm trying to cover most everything i can think of. i know i still have lots of reading to do. i appreciate the help too j9fd3s. i thought more people would pitch in, but i'm sure there are a few guys that come in and ask the same stuff i do and talk up their plans for a 20b, but then fizzle out. i know i'm doing it, i just know its going to be a while and takes alot of money and time. luckily i'm a pretty patient guy, at least i have a single on my fd to enjoy for a while. in the meantime, i'll continue my research so i dont ask stupid questions...
thanks again

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

its mothers day, give it some time

johnisenglish

I feel like I've posted my total cost about 20 times already, but either way, here's my breakdown:

20B - 2500
Subframe - 1700
AEM EMS - 1000
MSD DIS Coils - 276
8 CH AEM C2DI Ignition - 415
Spark Plugs - 64
Spark Plug Wires - 67
Fuel Rails - 30
Fuel Pressure Regulator - 130
Fuel Pressure Gauge - 20
Walbro Fuel Pumps - 180
Fuel Lines and Filter - 144
1600cc Fuel Injectors - 135
550cc FD Primary Injector - 50
Intercooler Core - 340
Endtanks - 75
Intercooler Piping - 110
Oil Lines - 138
Oil Cooler - 65
Intake Piping - 50
Intake Filters - 50
Downpipe - 75
Exhaust Piping - 50
Primary Muffler - 105
Midpipe Muffler - 81
Resonator - 80
Metal Stock - 140
Kirk Racing Rollbar - 320
Tial Blow Off Valve 200
20B Master Rebuild Kit - 1372
13brew Rotor Housing - 110
Motor Mount Brackets - 50
Motor Mounts - 60

I bought everything I could used (or bought but never installed, etc, etc), waited for good deals and vultured Ebay for months. I've done all the work myself, from the fabrication of parts to the rebuild of the engine to the body work (car was hit a while ago). So far I've spent a little under $11,000 on the powertrain and a little under $20,000 on everything (body work, transmission, saftey equipment, etc)

paximus

iTrader: (1)

well, i appreciate all the help guys.
johnisenglish- i've seen your cost list. it looks good and let me know what i'm getting myself into.
i decided to kinda do my own list since i have alot done to the car already, so it was easier to reflect the cost of what i can sell ect.
i just realized that i need to include safety equipment also, (dont know how i missed that one).
i forgot:
roll bar/cage, not sure what kind of racing i'll be doing. $500-1000
big brake kit- need to be able to stop the beast. $3000
and probably need to do bushings and new suspension pieces, i already have aftermarket struts/springs, trailing arms and toe links. what else is recommended?

i think i'm just going to get the parts one at a time, get the motor rebuilt/ported, through the summer and fall while i still enjoy the single fd. that way i can start through the winter and hopefully have it all done by the following summer. i know things rarely work out as you plan time wise, but you gotta make goals for yourself of they'll never get done, at least not for me. (took me 7 months for my single install/rebuilt motor)
i know i have a ton of work ahead of me, but hopefully with you guys willing to help me out it can get done right.
thanks!
*paximus goes back to reading the 20b forums*

felix_is_alive

hahaha lol man that sounds funny
but seriously the 20b conversion is a pain in the *** , but its worth it ,costly,time consuming,and very frustrating but its definetly worth it

felix_is_alive

damn double post frenzy got me

darkphantom

iTrader: (2)

You know i dont really get it. WHat do they weld on is my question?? cause i dont see no welding to be done

Red-Rx7

Pax-

You cannot just get a custom oil pan and call it a day. The work it takes to not modify the subframe & steering rack is near (not quite) double the Pettit subframe kit. The oil pan is one of the numerious pieces it takes to do the job. Also, Acosta will not sell the oil pan either. So if I were you, I would just consider using the Pettit kit.

I had a bunch more written, but it gets to the point that it is useless. I don't think you will be able to do it for as cheap as you think. I count three things you never mentioned right off the bat, in which pettit would charge you over 900.00 for them on.

I would suggest that you play the numbers game differently. Do not count what you can trade or swap or sell for. It never works out that way. Rather, take all the things you think it will cost to build, add 30% to each item. Add it all up, and plan that to be your budget to spend on the project (assuming you know every piece you need). Then, if you manage to sell various things you have, just add that money to the bank. If you don't thinks will get scewed quite fast. Trust me, I know.

paximus

iTrader: (1)

red-
thanks for the response, this thread is actually a little old, i've learned a lot since originally posting. i'm actually a fan of yours , and have kept track of everything you're doing, since i'm building the car for the same purpose as yours.

i've sold everything i was planning on, and bought the following, from johnisenglish:
-AEM ECU
-20B Long Block rebuilt with 13brew housing and RA master rebuilt kit. Zero miles on it
-Turbos, covereted to non-sequential
-Pettit Subframe and Bumpsteer correction kit
-Custom FMIC Intercooler and Intercooler Piping and Y-pipe
-Dual Oil Coolers with Thermostat and Steel Braided Lines
-Full 3" exhaust not including downpipe
-6 MSD DIS Coils with mounting bracket
-8 Channel AEM C2DI Ignition, plugs, wires
-1600cc Secondary Fuel Injectors *needs custom fuel rail
-550cc Primary Injectors with the stock fuel rail

so i've sold everything i was planning on selling, and with what i've spent on this, i'm still over $2000 ahead (made more than i planned on) for other stuff i will need.

question: what three things did i forget to mention?
i'm thinking i've covered quite a bit, still need to figure out what to do for a fuel system. i have the high flow denso pump, so i'm trying to decide between a dual denso pump system, or if i should just buy a big one. need to research some more and figure it out.

so i'm well on my way, everything gets here next week, i'm getting excited, the car is almost ready to just drop everything in, i just need to take out the steering rack and the subframe and i'm almost good to go. the fuel system, and a few other miscelaneous things i still need to do/get.

i'm thinking of going single right off the bat too, but i'm not sure how she'll drive with the twins. i'm in no rush though, i'll drive it for a while with them on, then make a decision.

thanks for the advice and help, its appreciated. very soon my fd will be rolling down the street again.... hehe

felix_is_alive

yeahh...you will bounce into some trouble but sounds like youre in the right direction , its great to have yet another 20b rx7

Drag'nGT

Great job. Good luck. It's nice to have helpful people here to give advice. Something I've been thinking would be a great idea is to "contract" a fabricator who has done a really kick *** job for someone on the board and have him make some of the more difficult pieces for us. I'd figure if the guy has built atleast one manifold then he'd just get that much better as more of us ordered items from him. Well that's just my idea. It could cut down on some of our headaches as well.