update?

 

I'm debating whether or not to upgrade the gearbox now or down the road. It will cost around $5,500 -$7,250 to install a hybrid T-56 depending on how much I can resell the parts I have for. It probably makes the most sense to do it now, because the car is not fully assembled, but I'm not sure I have the stomach for yet another fabrication project at this point.

Anyway, I am continuing to make progress. The ignition harness is complete. The 18 gauge power and ground wire for each coil are twisted together and covered with a braided metal ground shield. That is then covered with another shielded jacket. The wire pairs for all 6 coils are collectively twisted together and covered with Raychem DR-25. The wiring is shielded all the way back to the ECU and ground to a special pin. Each coil is grounded to its respective rotor housing.

I used Raychem T-connectors to seal the corners for the main branches and provide some strain relief. The connectors are really trick. They start out with a relatively amorphous shape and when heat is applied to them they form into well defined T joints. I sealed the ECU side connector and the individual coil connectors using glue shrink. The harness is basically water tight and should be immune to EMI.


The ECU to engine bay harness is basically done, but I still have to seal it up. DR-25 is very expensive, and once it's on there is no going back! Every time I think I am ready to finalize it, I find another input or output I want to add. So far I have used around 50 channels :p.

 

Man, that ceramic coated exhaust in the background looks sexy

 

The wiring looks great Chris. Should do a great job of sheilding from EMI just as long as you aren't twisting power and signal wires together. Good to see such a clean wiring job thus far.

 

Thanks. The power and shield wires are twisted together. My understanding is that it is the difference in magnetic fields that creates the cancellation effect.

"A pair of wires forms a circuit that can transmit data. The pairs are twisted to provide protection against crosstalk, the noise generated by adjacent pairs. When electrical current flows through a wire, it creates a small, circular magnetic field around the wire. When two wires in an electrical circuit are placed close together, their magnetic fields are the exact opposite of each other. Thus, the two magnetic fields cancel each other out. They also cancel out any outside magnetic fields. Twisting the wires can enhance this cancellation effect. Using cancellation together with twisting the wires, cable designers can effectively provide self-shielding for wire pairs within the network media. "
http://www.ciscopress.com/articles/a...p?p=31276&rl=1

Also see page 7 of the M&W CDI manual
http://www.mwignitions.com/pdf/Pro16_S3.pdf

 

I'm now understanding your flow requirements from the intercooler thread!

 

Looks good Chris.

I say get it running on the stock tranny. At least you can enjoy driving it until you need or want to do the tranny.

 

Yeah, but define 'driving.' If he really can't go WOT on boost in 3rd/4th gear without stripping the teeth, then he may have outgrown the stock tranny

 

run less boost

I just want him to finish so he can take me for a ride next time i visit his employer / my client.

 

Once you go DTM you don't go back!

Very well done wiring and entire setup. Wish I had the cash to spend on raychem for my harness...

 

Thanks for the compliment. You're right, the DTM connectors are great and very easy to work with. I like the fact that they are sealed, the pins are organized by number (instead of upper and lower case letters), and make a very loud click when the pins seat so there is never any doubt. By contrast the Pectel ECU connector has been a royal PITA to deal with. Part of this may be due to my own ineptness. Even with the right tool it is nearly impossible to remove the larger pins from it without destroying them and mangling the plastic around them.

I wish I had the cash I spent on Raychem wiring . I am probably going to have a lot left over depending on how many more mistakes I make. I'll let it go at a good discount if you are interested. Also, I heard that another company (Sumitomo?) is making wire that has the same specs as M 55 and is cheaper.

This weekend I hope to finish up the engine wiring and turn back to the front body harness.

 

Man, your car is sooo crazy I don't even understand or know what you're talking about at times. Not to sound like a total noob, but what is "Raychem Wiring"?

 

About the ECU your using I am guessing it is going to be used on the Caparo T1?
Your build is crazy BTW very nice.

 

I just raced my fd 20b with the gt42r at the edmonton champ car support race. We dynoed again with 590 hp at 14 psi and 664 hp at 18 psi, Anyways , after 12 laps i went through a bumpy section under full boost and broke the input shaft in two and stripped 3 rd gear to pieces. I'm looking into an up grade, what do you need to fit a t56?

wouter

 

What mods do you have?

 

It all depends on the voltage levels. As far as data wires are concerned you are correct as tighter twist result in higher speed data cable. This is the same reason the cat cable should be terminated maintaining as many twists as possible to maximize comm speed. Power wires are a different matter because their magnetic fields are usually far stronger than those generated from data pulses. One example would be a 12 volt lead wrapped around a data lead passing .5 volt triggers. This is not a problem, however, if you are using shielded data wire.

Rob

 

Yep. I was reading R&T this weekend and stumbled across that article...

I drove a new Z06 for the first time about an hour later

 

Imagine something like heat shrink, but rather than only being a thin electrical insulation, it is a thicker heat and chemical resistant insulation to protect your wiring from the harsh conditions in an engine bay.

If I come across any need for some raychem, I will be contacting you CMonakar.

 

so, when are you going to light this puppy?? And post the event??

 

i dont even have words for this right now lol thats unreal lots of luck man hope to do that someday to my car

lou

 

Thanks everyone. I made a lot of progress over the past few weeks, but had to pack everything up yesterday because I'm moving back up north. Hopefully once I get settled in there I will be able to get the car on the road in a few weeks. More to come.

 

As for Raychem I was very surprised when I ordered a couple spools of heat shrink from McMaster-Carr and when it showed up it was Raychem. So I went back and looked at the site and they carry 2,3 and 4 way breakouts as well.

3/4" heat shrink was $.75 / ft and the breakouts range in price from $13-20 a piece. Is that comparable to what what you've found?

BTW, if I haven't said it before you deserve a big pat on the back for all the work and dedication you've put into this car. It's certainly raising the bar for anyone else. ...and I hate you for that!

 

I woke up from a Coma the other day and someone told me.... The Redsox Won the World Series 3 years ago!! I was like WOW!... Then I called my friend Chris and asked him how the car Project was going....... Well its still going.... Any Cub Fans in the room?

 

with all the time and money youre spending on this thing you should change your SN to "CMonocle"


BTW... why the move?

 

Wow, it's been a month! This buildup is truly a masterpiece. Any updates so far? How did the move up north go?